Based on the error code, I will attempt to replace the CAPS on my 2016 RT-S. I have located what I believe is the sensor. It looks like a small torx bolt that needs to be dealt with. Very limited clearance. I think I can cut the cable tie that holds the sensor lead and one other lead. However, I don't know if this will provide enough clearance for an allen-type torx key. Any suggestions for what to use?
Thanks
Would these work?
They should if they will fit in the space given. You said you had very limited clearence and those look a little long. Have you tried them yet? When I have a tight clearence I have a 1/4 drive set I can use or a long torx bit that reaches out past any obstruction with a bit driver. Try what you have and see if it will work. That will give you an idea as to where to go.
I think long torx bits will hit the oil filter. I am thinking maybe something like this would work, but I don't have one to try:
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...4aAq4gEALw_wcB
I have had one of those for years, and it is great to get into some really tight spaces. I wonder what a dealer uses to change the sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by drgw222
That's what I would like to know.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by oldguyinTX
Here is an update. I loosened the bolt with a T27 torx key. It came in at an angle but got the screw started. The screw is a 6 mm with an 8mm hex head and a T30. The connector had oil in it. I ordered a replacement which had too small a hole for the 6mm screw. But while I had the new one, I weighed it and the unit I removed from the Spyder. One I took out was 30.3 grams, and the incorrect replacement was 26.3 g. I doubt there was 4 g of oil in the sensor?? Anyway, I cleaned the contacts on the one I removed and put it back in. The Spyder runs fine so far. Screen showed the P0340 and P0000. After a ride, both fault codes disappeared. I just received another replacement from China and it looks to be all one-piece plastic, while the one I took out looked to have a metal body for part of it. Perhaps the all-plastic will not leak?
It is difficult to find magnetic susceptibility for motor oil because it depends on additives among other things. However, oil has virtually no effect on magnetic fields, which is probably how the sensor works. But oil is not conductive either, so I am surprised that oil on the contacts would be a problem either.
I'd use the ratchet, but use a higher quality 1/4" Torx bit, not the cheap Harbor Freight ones.
Even though the oil may be non-conductive any contaminants or metal shavings in the oil can be conductive.Quote:
Originally Posted by drgw222
True dat! :agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by CloverHillCrawlerEven though the oil may be non-conductive any contaminants or metal shavings in the oil can be conductive.Quote:
Originally Posted by drgw222
I've seen the oil stream draining out of the sump plug visibly deflect almost an inch when a strong magnet was brought near!! nojoke (IIRC, it was one of the early development Magic Mirror Mount magnets, so the term 'strong' isn't really doing it justice! :rolleyes: )
The magnet didn't even touch the stream of oil, but there was enough magnetic contaminant/wear material suspended in the oil that whenever the magnet got within a couple of inches, the whole stream of draining oil was pulled waaay out of line... :shocked: It was a very good way to prove the point that the engine really was badly worn & in need of a rebuild; altho in retrospect, it would've been a LOT smarter if I'd done that particular demo at their place rather than when their vehicle was parked on my brand newly laid concrete floor, cos it did cause the draining oil stream to miss the catch pan & make a real mess!! :mad:
And I've still got that oil stain out there, despite some years of trying to clean it off! :banghead:
That particular oil probably would've served admirably as a rail gun conductor, it was that heavily contaminated & so highly conductive! :yikes:
What were the first indications of a CPS problem and did it stop normal operation of the bike? Where is the sensor located on your bike and what panels need to be removed to clearly see the part? Did you check for a BRP replacement part? What is the info on the China part you found that fits and where did you order it? ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by drgw222
When my CPS failed I got the dreaded Limp Home message. in checking for codes it was the same P0340. In checking with Can-Am Partshouse it stated that the part number was changed to a new part number. I called the dealer and after they read back the part number and it was the new number I had them order it and in came in about 2 weeks. It was the new one piece plastic. The one that failed was made in Mexico and don't remember the nationality of the new one. This happened in August 2023 when the RTL had 34,000 miles on it. I was able to ride it about 50 miles to get it back home. The bike seemed a little sluggish and I did not push it.