Seeking wisdom from the list about how best to lift the front with a jack?

I could use some assistance por favor. Jake is wanting to swap front tires on Cretin Girl, his 2021 RT Limited. I have no experience lifting the front end or either front wheel off the ground. I did some messages with Mike (BLUEKNIGHT911) awhile back and IIRC he said I could get a conventional floor jack under the A arm, to lift one side at a time. The problem I’m having, I can get the floor jack under the A arm but, Mike told me to put a piece of wood between the jack and the A arm yet I don’t have enough clearance to get both, under the A arm. As you can see in the pic I’m posting here, I’m using a 2 by 4 but it’s too thick, to get it on top of the jack and under the suspension.

I have another question come to think of it (looking at the pic). Is it better to work the jack (like the floor jack I’m using) from behind like where it’s positioned or is it better to come at it from the front? For those noble souls that have gone before me, I’m all ears TIA


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c78d98bac6.jpg



Best,


Jake
Reddick, Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

If you can find a piece of cardboard and double it over, that should give you sufficient protection against gouging the paint on the A-Arm and still leave you enough room. Turn the wheel so that you get better access to the jack. You should be able to tell which direction will give you the easiest options. My guess would be from the rear. But I've not jacked a Spyder using a scissors jack. Not that it won't work.

Are you swapping wheels with another Spyder?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

If you can find a piece of cardboard and double it over, that should give you sufficient protection against gouging the paint on the A-Arm and still leave you enough room. Turn the wheel so that you get better access to the jack. You should be able to tell which direction will give you the easiest options. My guess would be from the rear. But I've not jacked a Spyder using a scissors jack. Not that it won't work.

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~~~that’s brilliant Ron, thank you!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

Are you swapping wheels with another Spyder?

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~~~installing new tires




Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in awhile

The small scissor jacks that come in most compact cars are easier to get under where they need to go, than the large floor jacks. Most junkyards got a whole bin full of them you can get for a couple of bucks or they sell brand new ones at the auto parts places and on line. Once you get it raised, put the jack stands under it. The small scissor jacks won't be in the way of the jack stands like the big floor jacks. You can put one under each side and raise the whole front end at once. The scissor jacks are low enough to slide right under. My big roll around floor jacks won't go down far enough to get under the front end when it is sitting on a flat surface. I used to run it up on some ramps to get the floor jacks under it, but now I just lift with the old car scissor jacks.

I keep some pieces of thick leather around to protect the paint from the jacks and jack stands. Pieces of old 2 inch wide belt work perfect. Zip tie them to the jack stands and they don't get lost.

Cut your 2x4 in half and drive up on one half and use the other half to put on the jack under the A-arm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gwolf

The small scissor jacks that come in most compact cars are easier to get under where they need to go, than the large floor jacks. Most junkyards got a whole bin full of them you can get for a couple of bucks or they sell brand new ones at the auto parts places and on line. Once you get it raised, put the jack stands under it. The small scissor jacks won't be in the way of the jack stands like the big floor jacks. You can put one under each side and raise the whole front end at once. The scissor jacks are low enough to slide right under. My big roll around floor jacks won't go down far enough to get under the front end when it is sitting on a flat surface. I used to run it up on some ramps to get the floor jacks under it, but now I just lift with the old car scissor jacks.

I keep some pieces of thick leather around to protect the paint from the jacks and jack stands. Pieces of old 2 inch wide belt work perfect. Zip tie them to the jack stands and they don't get lost.

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This exactly what I do. Break the lug nuts loose while the tire is still on the ground unless you have someone nearby to apply the brakes to keep wheels from spinning.

Additional options: Got a set of ramps? Drive up; set brake/wheel chalk & then plenty clearance for whatever jack & board combination. Or if plenty of boards available,drive on that for extra height. ( they might slide at first)

Great advice Gwolf & 2dogs. I like the compact scissors jack idea but, Jake is a little impatient tonight so e’s likely going to wing it wif the monstah floor jack, to R&R at least 1 wheel. Seriously good advice all around concerning the leather bits

Where I’m slightly stumped (NOW)… I have a butt load of miscellaneous sockets. I’m trying to find the best fit for the lug nuts. 1st place so far goes to a 6 point 13/16 ths. What are others using to R&R the lug nuts?!?




Best,



Jake
Reddick Fla.
We always like a bit of volume- Phil Campbell

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ca3abce5_b.jpg[/url]


6 point 13/16ths has a little slop. Still looking for the best fit. What are others using to R&R the wheel lugs???



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

Additional options: Got a set of ramps? Drive up; set brake/wheel chalk & then plenty clearance for whatever jack & board combination. Or if plenty of boards available,drive on that for extra height. ( they might slide at first)

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~~~good stuff but I think I’m gonna use my floor jack and some wadded cardboard tonight, if I break the wheel lugs foist!


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

~~~not that anyone asked, & I didn’t mention it but, the plan is for Jake to R&R the tires using hand tools, which is why I’m not concerned with lifting both wheels simultaneously. I can do them one at a time


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shakin_jake

~~~that’s brilliant Ron, thank you!

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Well, I don't know about 'Brilliant', but I appreciate the kind words. I'm glad it helped.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

Well, I don't know about 'Brilliant', but I appreciate the kind words. I'm glad it helped.

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~~~which size socket (& how many points?) are you using to R&R Spyder wheel lugs Ron?



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while

Jake, I have 2 six-point 13/16 sockets, one 1/2" drive, the other 3/8" drive, both Craftsman, neither of which have any slack in them, that I've used for all my wheel removals over 87K+ miles.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JayBros

Jake, I have 2 six-point 13/16 sockets, one 1/2" drive, the other 3/8" drive, both Craftsman, neither of which have any slack in them, that I've used for all my wheel removals over 87K+ miles.

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~~~awesome!, I like the way my 1/2” drive 6 point 13/16ths fits too, but I detect just a tad of play. The other socket I tried that came close but is sloppier is a 21mm 12 point (1/2” drive). If the 13/16ths 6 point has worked for you all those years/smiles, then I’ll call it done and use the same. Thank you very much!


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shakin_jake

~~~awesome!, I like the way my 1/2” drive 6 point 13/16ths fits too, but I detect just a tad of play. The other socket I tried that came close but is sloppier is a 21mm 12 point (1/2” drive). If the 13/16ths 6 point has worked for you all those years/smiles, then I’ll call it done and use the same. Thank you very much!


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

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Yes, the 21mm is supposed to be an Exact Fit. However, I found the 13/16th's is a tighter fit. .... If lifting one wheel, the scissor jack is what I have used .... with a piece of 1/4 in plywood under the 'A' arm. ... I bought a few scissor jacks at junk yards and welded and cut off the round end and welded a 5/8th nut onto it ..... this now works well with a drill ... I've also used that jack for lifting the rear using a block sized to fit the width of the metal rear shock tabs ..... Mike :thumbup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

Yes, the 21mm is supposed to be an Exact Fit. However, I found the 13/16th's is a tighter fit. .... If lifting one wheel, the scissor jack is what I have used .... with a piece of 1/4 in plywood under the 'A' arm. ... I bought a few scissor jacks at junk yards and welded and cut off the round end and welded a 5/8th nut onto it ..... this now works well with a drill ... I've also used that jack for lifting the rear using a block sized to fit the width of the metal rear shock tabs ..... Mike :thumbup:

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~~~both of the aforementioned sockets are from the same set of Kobalt tools. I got to thinking about what you said here, using 1/4” plywood so i rode up to my horse barn to have a look around at what kind of scrap plywood I might find and came onto a piece of scrap fence board (1/2” thick)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8cf2b942_b.jpg

I had put my battery operated circular saw in the Spyder’s frunk so I grabbed the fence board, saw and set it on the grapple on the front of my Kioti tractor to use as a work table and wouldn't you know it, no battery in the saw. So i brought the board back to my garage and I’ll cut after I find a fresh battery to fit the Ryobi saw

I’m bound and determined to get the left wheel off my Spyder tonight/this morning


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs - Henry Ford

:coffee:....I believe you can 'get errr' done now.
I would definitely utilize the tire jack method that everyone has been talking about. Best place is your local auto salvage yard.

Remember to be Safe and Stay in the Game.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e2dd7df8_b.jpg

~~~ well, I finally got that sucker off!


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3abccbe7_b.jpg


~~~ good time to have a look see to check brake pad wear. Both the inboard & outboard pads have plenty of friction material (pad) wear left, but then there’s only 8 Kmiles on the odometer, and I’m not one to “ride the brakes.”


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d6f3c7e9_b.jpg


~~~ this view may appear to be busy, but it’s not really. I measured the width (front to rear) of the A arm where i wanted to (and did) place my floor jack along with where the wooden shim I cut to fit in there. I came up with 7", so I cut the fence board 9” in length so I’d have an inch overlap on the front and back. There’s still plenty of room for my wooden jack stand, or what I’m using to hold the steering knuckle, so that the floor jack doesn’t have to support the weight of the Spyder while the wheel/tire is removed.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...370808d6_b.jpg



~~~ here’s a view from the front. I couldn’t locate my jack stands so I improvised. I don’t care to toss scrap wood away. The bigger piece was left-over from when we rebuilt/replaced all the wood border on the horse wash rack on the gabled end of the horse barn. My carpenters originally built the wood barn and wash rack almost 25 years ago, & the PT lumber got pretty beat up (wash rack lumber) from sitting in the Fla. sun all those years!



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...63077511_b.jpg



~~~ I thought they (BRP?) used an excessive amount of wheel weights when these tires were originally balanced. I recall reading somewhere years ago that there’s a maximum amount of wheel weights needed & if you need to go over, scrap the tire. That said, the front end on my Spyder never shook (& the right wheel used way less wheel weights to balance).


I’m thru w/this job for the time being. We’re going on a donut run into Ocala at 7 AM to try out Tasty O’s donuts. We’ve lived up this way 25 years and never tried the donuts at this Ocala institution. We’ve always gone to Kristy Kreme in Gainesville for our donut fix. There is a small independent donut maker, despite having 3 locations in Gainesville (Halo donuts). I’ve heard they are good (Halo, they make potato donuts) but I made the trek up to G’sville twice in less than a week’s time to sample Halo potato donuts, yet 2 of the locations I tried hitting were both closed on the 2 mornings I drove up there (20+ miles one way), and I got there both times to both locations early = :-(, to no avail.


Yeah, so I’ll clean up the wheel/tire before dismounting.


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shakin_jake

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e2dd7df8_b.jpg

~~~ well, I finally got that sucker off!


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3abccbe7_b.jpg


~~~ good time to have a look see to check brake pad wear. Both the inboard & outboard pads have plenty of friction material (pad) wear left, but then there’s only 8 Kmiles on the odometer, and I’m not one to “ride the brakes.”


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d6f3c7e9_b.jpg


~~~ this view may appear to be busy, but it’s not really. I measured the width (front to rear) of the A arm where i wanted to (and did) place my floor jack along with where the wooden shim I cut to fit in there. I came up with 7", so I cut the fence board 9” in length so I’d have an inch overlap on the front and back. There’s still plenty of room for my wooden jack stand, or what I’m using to hold the steering knuckle, so that the floor jack doesn’t have to support the weight of the Spyder while the wheel/tire is removed.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...370808d6_b.jpg



~~~ here’s a view from the front. I couldn’t locate my jack stands so I improvised. I don’t care to toss scrap wood away. The bigger piece was left-over from when we rebuilt/replaced all the wood border on the horse wash rack on the gabled end of the horse barn. My carpenters originally built the wood barn and wash rack almost 25 years ago, & the PT lumber got pretty beat up (wash rack lumber) from sitting in the Fla. sun all those years!



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...63077511_b.jpg



~~~ I thought they (BRP?) used an excessive amount of wheel weights when these tires were originally balanced. I recall reading somewhere years ago that there’s a maximum amount of wheel weights needed & if you need to go over, scrap the tire. That said, the front end on my Spyder never shook (& the right wheel used way less wheel weights to balance).


I’m thru w/this job for the time being. We’re going on a donut run into Ocala at 7 AM to try out Tasty O’s donuts. We’ve lived up this way 25 years and never tried the donuts at this Ocala institution. We’ve always gone to Kristy Kreme in Gainesville for our donut fix. There is a small independent donut maker, despite having 3 locations in Gainesville (Halo donuts). I’ve heard they are good (Halo, they make potato donuts) but I made the trek up to G’sville twice in less than a week’s time to sample Halo potato donuts, yet 2 of the locations I tried hitting were both closed on the 2 mornings I drove up there (20+ miles one way), and I got there both times to both locations early = :-(, to no avail.


Yeah, so I’ll clean up the wheel/tire before dismounting.


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

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It's not excessive it it takes that much to balance. This amount is not uncommon when running Kenda's. We've seen more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

It's not excessive it it takes that much to balance. This amount is not uncommon when running Kenda's. We've seen more.

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~~~I could run 90 MPH with both hands off the handlebars and Cretin Girl ran straight and true so the tire/wheel was balanced and the alignment is right on the money. That was before I lost all the air pressure in that tire then rode it 3 miles home totally flat which ruined the tire and why I am R&Ring the two front tires. I learned a good lesson that day. What I should have done was to call Mrs. Jake to have her come fetch me, leave Cretin girl on the side of the road then come back with my dump trailer and haul her home. This is how some of us learn

I’ve hung out here long enough to know others have had less favorable views concerning Kenda tires yet I’ve had nothing but praise for the Kenda tires on this 2021 Spyder RT Limited plus the Kenda tires on my 2020 Ryker Rally were equally impressive

That said, I bought a set of dark side tires this time around for the replacement tires


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...327e53fb_b.jpg



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shakin_jake

Great advice Gwolf & 2dogs. I like the compact scissors jack idea but, Jake is a little impatient tonight so e’s likely going to wing it wif the monstah floor jack, to R&R at least 1 wheel. Seriously good advice all around concerning the leather bits

Where I’m slightly stumped (NOW)… I have a butt load of miscellaneous sockets. I’m trying to find the best fit for the lug nuts. 1st place so far goes to a 6 point 13/16 ths. What are others using to R&R the lug nuts?!?




Best,



Jake
Reddick Fla.
We always like a bit of volume- Phil Campbell

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Try a 21 MM socket.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gwolf

Try a 21 MM socket.

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~~~I’m guessing the 21mm socket you have is a 6 pointer. I have several 21mm sockets but, they’re all 12 points and they have too much slop to afford a good fit. Fortunately the 13/16th’s 12 point socket I’m using is a better fit



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

You know the old saying, if the shoe fits wear it!!! Put them nice tires on and start riding!:coffee:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shakin_jake

~~~I’m guessing the 21mm socket you have is a 6 pointer. I have several 21mm sockets but, they’re all 12 points and they have too much slop to afford a good fit. Fortunately the 13/16th’s 12 point socket I’m using is a better fit



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

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I don't remember. I got 5 or 6 different sets in half inch drive in both 6 point and 12 point. I may have used a 6 point . Probably got it out of which ever toolbox was sitting the closest to the Spyder. I would have grabbed a metric because most everything on the Spyder and the New Holland is metric. The Harleys are mostly SAE and the trucks are anybodies guess. It depends on what part it is. I got a Gas Monkey shop stool with wheels on it that has metric in one drawer and SAE in the other. Some guy was standing in my shop waiting for me to weld something for him and he said I had too many tools. I told him there was no such thing as "Too Many Tools". That is an evil rumor started by women with 50 pairs of shoes.