Looking for proven plastic repair methods. TIA
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Looking for proven plastic repair methods. TIA
Hi Ricky, & welcome to posting on the Forum! :clap:
Can you give us an idea of what plastic you want to repair, maybe even what on (your Spyder??) and why?? :dontknow:
Sometimes, especially with Spyder tupperware, a little bit of context helps?! ;)
Specifically Tupperware cracks.
look into a plastic welder/plastic staple machine. I have done numerous repairs on Spyder plastic body panels, including re-attaching broken-off tabs that the push pins go in. A decent setup will give you numerous staple options, including inside and outside corners.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyRed
So now we know that it's for tupperware cracks, is there any chance you could tell us which panel, what year model Spyder, maybe even how the crack occurred?? :dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyRed
Maybe give us a bit more (orright, maybe give us a lot more - as much as you can, would be good! ;) ) detail about the where & why parts of whatever it is you're trying to repair?? The more info you can give us, then it's likely the better the info you'll get in return. There are some panels on our Spyders where broken tabs just aren't worth repairing; there are some panels where the plastic is a little different to that of others; and there are sometimes better solutions than plastic welding for some of the panels too?? Just as an example, because of what I saw as a poor design in the tab on one of my 2013 RT's panels, a tab/clip that broke, very nearly seeing me lose that panel (a panel that others HAVE lost & had to replace at significant cost! :mad: ) and then getting a very poor result from the recommended plastic welding repair option; I borrowed an idea from a completely different panel on an earlier RS Model and I've replaced the tabs/clips on that & another of my RT's panels with D-Zus fasteners. Much better solution, looks OEM, positive locking, and I'll never risk losing that panel again! :ohyea:
So again, the more info you can give us about the why's & wherefores of your need for plastic repairs, the better we'll be able to help. :thumbup:
If you have a decent body shop nearby, go ask them if they can weld it for you.
Thats how they repair the plastic bumpers on cars and trucks.
I bought a used RTL 2019 a few weeks ago and found this while replacing the seat strut. I repaired it and 99% is hidden under the seat. Just fishing for proven alternatives for repairing plastic in the future. I used jb weld plastic repair compound and it worked fine.
Here is the repair. Note: 99% hidden under the seat.
Well, Rick, I think that you have done superbly. JB Weld. You took the words right out of my mouth. No amount of ABS plastic welding will make the crack invisible, unless it was then refinished and repainted. And, if it was welded from the back side, it could interfere with the fitment of the panel. And, I've seen plenty of ABS welds crack. It looks as though the crack goes all the way to the edge of the panel, so even a stop hole would not be necessary, either. It has already spread to the edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyRed
Because it is a 2019, that panel is probably available from the BRP parts system and you could get a new one, if desired. So, get out there and start riding. Be safe.
Rick, I am with snowbelt, looks like you have it wrapped up pretty good. Don't know why you want help!!:2thumbs:
White RH Upper Lateral Panel
705006177
$329.99
I have had good luck with JB weld .... ( the type that takes awhile to cure ) ..... It also helps a great deal if you add a thin piece of sheet metal or even thin aluminum to the back of the crack .... I have used this method to attach broken MOUNTING tabs back onto a panel ..... Good luck ....Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyRed
:agree:
Read post #7 just fishing for repair methods for future use.
I'm currently using acetone and old LEGOS - these are ABS plastic and melt in the acetone. A Glass airtight container will be needed. I use white Legos, but there are a multitude of colors. These usually take 24 hours to melt into a "slurry" to repair cracks/tabs etc. Add a few more Legos if it's too runny. The area may need "support" to allow it to cure in place.
As a Lego collector, I am appalled at your murder of innocent Lego bricks! :roflblack:Quote:
Originally Posted by davev1pa
I appreciate your concern for the inhumane treatment of LEGOS....however, rest assured, they are giving new life and donating altruistically to a broken tab or a otherwise cracked portion of Tupperware. BTW I only could build a column so I'd be lying if I said I loved legos......Quote:
Originally Posted by racoon
I used a method like Mike described in post #11 on a broken area on one of my bikes. First, I removed and cleaned the part. Then super glued them together. The crack was nearly invisible. Then I applied a thin layer of JB Weld along the back side perpendicular to the break. Before the JB completely set up I pressed a serrated nail with the head clipped off into the JB. After that set, I covered it all with another coat of JB Weld. I let it cure overnight and resisted the temptation to play with it or test its strength. I believe that broken area became much stronger than it was originally. A little polish and some wax and it was never thought of or even noticed again. Good luck..... Jim
I have used both methods, JB Weld and the Lego/acetone method; but instead of nail heads, I took a small piece of zero steel wool and pulled the strands or "fluffed" it, mixed it into the adhesive, and applied, similar to a fiberglass method. Both worked great for me.
Ryde safe.
It is easier to get some aluminum screen repair material and either use your method or better yet melt it in with a soldering iron and flat tool. The repair is crazy strong!Quote:
Originally Posted by rmag