HELP no start

I am new to the forum and new to riding a spyder. I have a 2012 RT. It has been riding perfectly until the back tire blew out. I repaired the tire and back hatch area, now it won't come out of the safety screen after pushing the mode button. It just stays on the safety screen.
When the tire blew I was doing about 70mph, all over the road, but I got it to the side of the road safe, It started up when the wrecker got there, but when we unloaded it it wouldn't
ANY IDEAS?? any and all help is appreciated.

I would check the battery and the battery cables. A fully charged battery should have 12.8 volts....:thumbup:

r-t auto ? or manual shift ? ( may not matter , tire blew out --- check the rear brake assembly . maybe knocked a sensor out of wack on the brake part ? check to make sure your in natural , can you roll the cycle a little bit ? or stopped by being in gear ? ) the mode deal is a puzzle --------> try taken the key out and away from the cycle for 5 minutes ( do not believe the neysayers ) I have owned a 2012 and 2011 r-t manual and auto it does have credence to the theory ! ( resets the puter ) will check back later if this doesn`t help

It shows 12.6V I put my jumper box on it too, a lithium pack, stays the same.
a guy told me that since the rear tire blew out that the dealer has to reset it? I did not see any thing in the book about that

Did you check the emergency engine kill switch?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SPS1

I am new to the forum and new to riding a spyder. I have a 2012 RT. It has been riding perfectly until the back tire blew out. I repaired the tire and back hatch area, now it won't come out of the safety screen after pushing the mode button. It just stays on the safety screen.
When the tire blew I was doing about 70mph, all over the road, but I got it to the side of the road safe, It started up when the wrecker got there, but when we unloaded it it wouldn't
ANY IDEAS?? any and all help is appreciated.

---

What do you mean the rear tire 'blew out'? You can't repair a blown out tire.

The mode button does not work. So do any of the other buttons on the left handlebar control that are on the Canbus work? That would be the turn signals and the windshield height control.

Seems the issue srarted after you got the spyder onto the tow truck. How was that handled and how was the unit tied down..? What was done to repair the tire was it removed and was anything damaged when the blow out occured..? Other than the tire. :dontknow:

:agree::agree::agree: If you could provide information about how the bike was secured by the tow driver that could prove to be useful. I am having all kinds of visions about Tommy tow truck driver doing bad things to secure your bike..... Jim

sps! did you get any thing resolved ? the not starting ? ( folks he lives in texas , so he might still be coming back from the grocery store ! everywhere in texas is a long drive :roflblack:
if you are still having a bit of trouble , try taken the battery clamps off clean the post and clamps ( corrosion build up ) and while the battery is disconnected it might get the computer to do a hard reset ... ( basically what the shop will do except they have the hand held devise to reset )

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by billybovine

The mode button does not work. So do any of the other buttons on the left handlebar control that are on the Canbus work? That would be the turn signals and the windshield height control.

---

No they don't only the horn

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by canamjhb

:agree::agree::agree: If you could provide information about how the bike was secured by the tow driver that could prove to be useful. I am having all kinds of visions about Tommy tow truck driver doing bad things to secure your bike..... Jim

---

He strapped it and pulled it the way the Owners manual showed, He was a very knowledgeable driver.

I replaced it, the tire

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by youngers

sps! did you get any thing resolved ? the not starting ? ( folks he lives in texas , so he might still be coming back from the grocery store ! everywhere in texas is a long drive :roflblack:
if you are still having a bit of trouble , try taken the battery clamps off clean the post and clamps ( corrosion build up ) and while the battery is disconnected it might get the computer to do a hard reset ... ( basically what the shop will do except they have the hand held devise to reset )

---

No it still does not start as of this morning, I had a family issue that came 1st.
Today-taken key out of ignition, removed and cleaned battery terminals, not corroded at all,

Thank yall (Texas thing) found a bad fuse, always the simple things. I did not know that there was a front fuse box.

Glad you found the problem. Any ideas on what caused the fuse to go? Water or corrosion? ....:thumbup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SPS1

Thank yall (Texas thing) found a bad fuse, always the simple things. I did not know that there was a front fuse box.

---

:yes::yes::yes::yes::yes: and thanks for letting us know and the cause.

Not sure why the fuse blew, something with the tire I'm sure.
Now it has 4 codes all have to do with the Speed sensors, C003A, P0500,
P2159 and C006C, looking into that now

C003A Wheel sensor (R) failure

Possible cause.
Damaged circuit wires, damaged wheel speed sensor or damaged VCM pins.
Damage tooth wheel or air gap too big.

Corrective action
Check for damage wheel speed sensor.
Check for damage toothed wheel.
Make sure air gap between sensor and toothed wheel is acceptable.
Disconnect VCM and VSS4.
Measure resistance between harness connector VCM-19 and VCM-31 (expected value > open).
Measure resistance from connector: VCM-19 to VSS4-2 (expected value: < 2 ohms).
Measure resistance from connector: VCM-31 to VSS4-1 (expected value: < 2 ohms).

P0500, P2159 and C0060 are all secondary faults caused by the wheel sensor. Fix the wheel sensor and these codes will go away as well.

Ok another question!!!
It looks like this model does not have the position sensor, I assume that some do and some don't. Mine has a schrader valve for the rear air bag. when the tire blew out it damaged the under fender and a few other plastic pieces. There is a plug 3 wire BL/WT, BLK, and Yellow in the wiring diagram it looks like it would go to the position sensor. Is there a cap that goes on the end of that connector? I know some caps have a short pin that either tricks the ECM or something like that. the end of the connector was damaged from the tire. I'm thinking that if it does thats why all the codes

Again your help is greatly appreciated

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by billybovine

C003A Wheel sensor (R) failure

Possible cause.
Damaged circuit wires, damaged wheel speed sensor or damaged VCM pins.
Damage tooth wheel or air gap too big.

Corrective action
Check for damage wheel speed sensor.
Check for damage toothed wheel.
Make sure air gap between sensor and toothed wheel is acceptable.
Disconnect VCM and VSS4.
Measure resistance between harness connector VCM-19 and VCM-31 (expected value > open).
Measure resistance from connector: VCM-19 to VSS4-2 (expected value: < 2 ohms).
Measure resistance from connector: VCM-31 to VSS4-1 (expected value: < 2 ohms).

P0500, P2159 and C0060 are all secondary faults caused by the wheel sensor. Fix the wheel sensor and these codes will go away as well.

---

Thank You