Stranded! Spyder loses power, stops, & won't start. Any ideas?

Out running errands today, beautiful day, Spyder purring right along. After my third stop, I was pulling out of the parking lot and the engine started to stumble and lose power. Then it seemed to catch so I went on my merry way to Costco for gas. Turned into the parking lot and the bike died. I was able to coast downhill to a safe spot and park. I then tried to start it. Cranked just fine, but the engine would not catch. So, I pulled the key, and walked away for ten minutes. Tried again with the same result. It never went into limp mode. Had it towed to the dealer (glad it was today when they were open and not tomorrow). I was able to pull up a code U1055. Anyone know what this is? Thanks in advance.

EDIT: It almost seemed to me like it was starved for fuel, as it would try to fire up, but just couldn't quite get there. I still had about 3/8 of a tank. And the battery is less than a year old and the voltmeter showed 14 volts.

Mine acted the same way (2021 RTL)--only I was lucky enough to have it fail at home in my garage:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rt-issue-fixed

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Originally Posted by arkyleo

Mine acted the same way (2021 RTL)--only I was lucky enough to have it fail at home in my garage:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rt-issue-fixed

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Interesting. I'll check with the dealer on Tuesday and try to find out if that applies to a 2017 RT. Just curious: Did you bike throw the same U0155 code? Or are they maybe different for a 2021? Inquiring minds want to know.

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Originally Posted by oldguyinTX

Interesting. I'll check with the dealer on Tuesday and try to find out if that applies to a 2017 RT. Just curious: Did you bike throw the same U0155 code? Or are they maybe different for a 2021? Inquiring minds want to know.

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In your first post, you listed the code as U1055. Above, you listed it as U0155. I'll assume U0155 is correct in that the other number doesn't exist for a 2017 RT.

U0155 meas that a number of modules have lost communications with your cluster. This could simply be caused by the harness connector on the rear of the cluster coming loose, or otherwise getting a bad connection. It's not an overall loss of power to the cluster, meaning that it didn't go dark. It just means that it is a CAN Bus issue. There's no indication one way or the other, that it would cause the engine to not run. Not enough information to verify that. Keep your fingers crossed that they can pull out your cluster and just find a plug issue, or a fuse problem in the fuse box. It’s a rather large connector that has been known to come loose. They also can pull up any other codes that occurred and went away around that same time, and see if they relate. Hopefully, it's not an internal cluster problem that would require replacement. $$$$$

Have you done any cluster related work? Power washed the machine? Make sure you tell them.

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

In your first post, you listed the code as U1055. Above, you listed it as U0155. I'll assume U0155 is correct in that the other number doesn't exist for a 2017 RT.

U0155 meas that a number of modules have lost communications with your cluster. This could simply be caused by the harness connector on the rear of the cluster coming loose, or otherwise getting a bad connection. It's not an overall loss of power to the cluster, meaning that it didn't go dark. It just means that it is a CAN Bus issue. There's no indication one way or the other, that it would cause the engine to not run. Not enough information to verify that. Keep your fingers crossed that they can pull out your cluster and just find a plug issue, or a fuse problem in the fuse box. It’s a rather large connector that has been known to come loose. They also can pull up any other codes that occurred and went away around that same time, and see if they relate. Hopefully, it's not an internal cluster problem that would require replacement. $$$$$

Have you done any cluster related work? Power washed the machine? Make sure you tell them.

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It is U0155. Sorry for the mixup. I've done no cluster work, and definitely no power washing. The cluster seems to be fine, no anomalies everything looks normal. The only glitch was the bike never went into limp mode, or at least that did not show up on the cluster. Hoping that it might only be an ECM upgrade or the plug issue that you mentioned. And yeah, I know that the cluster is big bucks. Hope I don't have to go that route.:pray:

Right. Challenge them to inspect the pins in that plug, and there is a slew of continuity checks indicated for that code, to make sure the problem is not at the other end, before they declare that the cluster needs replaced.

Sounds electrical. Check the battery. Good? Connections tight?

From my 2014 Service Manual

U0155

ECM

Lost communication with CLUSTER (lost of CAN ID’s)

Missing CAN ID.
Blown fuse.
Module internal error.
Damaged circuit wires or damaged module pins.

Check for cluster fault or ECM fault. With unit connected to BUDS with MPI2, Turn ignition switch OFF, wait for cluster to turn off. Disconnect MPI2 from DLC connector. Measure resistance between DLC-1 and DLC-2 (expected value = 50 to 70 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and ECMB-C1 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between
DLC-2 and ECMB-C2 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and CL-24 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-2 and CL-23 (expected value < 2 ohms). Turn ignition switch ON Measure voltage between harness connector CL-8 and ground (expected value = 11 to 13 volts).

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Cranked just fine, but the engine would not catch.

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Relevant fuses are LFB F1 15A, LFB F2 10A, LFB F5 5A, LFB F7 10A. Also LFB R2 Pre-Starting Relay (note the ECM commands this relay to command the starter solenoid but it also has a verification connection to the ECM).

You have a number of farkles whose installation could affect the wiring both electrically and mechanically. Did you make any changes in the last 1K miles?

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Originally Posted by oldguyinTX

Interesting. I'll check with the dealer on Tuesday and try to find out if that applies to a 2017 RT. Just curious: Did you bike throw the same U0155 code? Or are they maybe different for a 2021? Inquiring minds want to know.

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My 2021 showed "no active codes"

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Originally Posted by BertRemington

From my 2014 Service Manual

U0155

ECM

Lost communication with CLUSTER (lost of CAN ID’s)

Missing CAN ID.
Blown fuse.
Module internal error.
Damaged circuit wires or damaged module pins.

Check for cluster fault or ECM fault. With unit connected to BUDS with MPI2, Turn ignition switch OFF, wait for cluster to turn off. Disconnect MPI2 from DLC connector. Measure resistance between DLC-1 and DLC-2 (expected value = 50 to 70 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and ECMB-C1 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between
DLC-2 and ECMB-C2 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-1 and CL-24 (expected value < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between DLC-2 and CL-23 (expected value < 2 ohms). Turn ignition switch ON Measure voltage between harness connector CL-8 and ground (expected value = 11 to 13 volts).

Relevant fuses are LFB F1 15A, LFB F2 10A, LFB F5 5A, LFB F7 10A. Also LFB R2 Pre-Starting Relay (note the ECM commands this relay to command the starter solenoid but it also has a verification connection to the ECM).

You have a number of farkles whose installation could affect the wiring both electrically and mechanically. Did you make any changes in the last 1K miles?

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No changes electrically in about 2 years or so. And thanks for the info! :thumbup:

Well, as it turned out, there was A LOT of water in the gas. Dealer flushed the fuel system, changed the fuel filter, and put in the same amount of gas (no water) that was in the tank when I dropped it off. While they had it, I had them do my annual service and change the HCM filter. And, I got a $20.00 off "Thank You" from the previous service, as well as a 10% military discount on parts. The only hiccup was they did not replace the OEM drain plugs with the hex head magnetic plugs that I dropped off with the service writer. Said they couldn't find them. They were in the trunk. Oh well. Stiil happy with the service.

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there was A LOT of water in the gas

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Any explanation how the water entered the gas tank?

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Originally Posted by oldguyinTX

Well, as it turned out, there was A LOT of water in the gas. Dealer flushed the fuel system, changed the fuel filter, and put in the same amount of gas (no water) that was in the tank when I dropped it off. While they had it, I had them do my annual service and change the HCM filter. And, I got a $20.00 off "Thank You" from the previous service, as well as a 10% military discount on parts. The only hiccup was they did not replace the OEM drain plugs with the hex head magnetic plugs that I dropped off with the service writer. Said they couldn't find them. They were in the trunk. Oh well. Stiil happy with the service.

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Water in the gas causing the engine to die I get. Causing a U0155 code? A connection I never would have made. Shows how much I know. Glad you’re back on the road. Be safe. Watch out for dillos.

I'm with SS. U0155 (and water in the fuel) needs an explanation. We haven't reached the end of this saga.

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Originally Posted by BertRemington

Any explanation how the water entered the gas tank?

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Pretty sure that I got the watered gas at an HEB (huge grocery store chain here in Texas) gas station, as it's the last place I got gas. What is puzzling is that I still had just under a 1/2 a tank of (wet) gas left when all of this happened, so I wonder why it didn't happen sooner. Beats me. Think I'll mosey over to the dealer tomorrow and ask them about that, as well as the U0155 code, which I did tell them about when I had the Spyder towed there.