Is a replacement Lithium Battery the way to go? How have you installed yours?

My Spyder OEM battery may be starting to go; I've already gotten a few VSS fault codes on startup after pulling it off the tender now that the weather is breaking here in the northeast. So I have been looking for a replacement and I'm wondering if Lithium is the way to go? Lamonster sells the NOCO NLP20 but I'm wondering is it going to be a pain in the ass to install because of the way the factory bracket works; is there any modification needed to make it work? I've even seen other non-OEM lead/AGM batteries where that bracket can be a pain. I'm just wondering if any people have installed a NOCO, and how did they make it work before I take the plunge?

Let's begin with asking what year is your Spyder; the model; how old is the OEM battery; & what battery make is it?? .... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

Let's begin with asking what year is your Spyder; the model; how old is the OEM battery; & what battery make is it?? .... Mike :thumbup:

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It's a 2023 FS-S bought last March 2023. It has the factory battery which is the Yuasa. I ran it all Spring/Summer to around 4,000 miles. I stopped riding it around Late October 23; put it away in my garage with a Battery Tender Jr on it. Now it's 2024, I broke it out late March with some rides; but started having VSS fault codes pop up when starting the bike; two so far, only for it to go away in a few min or when I turn it off and restart. When hitting the forums, this seems this indicate a weak battery on startup. The OEM battery did pass a test and when using a voltmeter, it does hit 12 volts, and drops to around 9.5-10 volts when cranking. Generally speaking, the battery would still be in range of "good", but I usually like my motorcycle batteries to stay in the 10 or greater when cranking. My thinking is I'm already doing some mods; new exhaust, slayer turn, so while it's down for those, throw in a new battery or even make the jump to lithium. Just not have this headache anymore.

wagswvu, I just added the NOCO to my 2020 RTL. My original battery went bad and left me stranded in the spring of 2022. I elected to replace the second battery for the 2024 season before it left me stranded.
The RT has a hold down clamp that is a pain in the *** to install. You need to hold it up with some tape (I used the blue painter's tape) when you put the new battery in. I think the F3 is a little easier to install.
The NOCO is much shorter than the AGM battery it replaces. NOCO supplies plastic spacers to make up the difference in size. The NOCO battery is also a fraction of the weight of an AGM battery so it's much easier to handle.
AND....the LiPo battery is supposed to last 10 years, so as difficult as the battery installation may be, you won't have to do it again for 10 years.
My only issue was I needed a new Battery Tender. The LiPo battery requires a different charging profile. My existing Tender was old enough that it didn't have a setting for the different chemistry.

In short, I heartily recommend the NOCO battery. I bought mine from Lamonster. I found the battery available from another source for about $10 cheaper, but I elected to support Lamonster because I knew he'd gone through the effort to investigate it and make sure it was appropriate for Spyders.

One small question - Before you go through the expense and effort to change out the battery, have you checked the terminal connections? Make sure they are tight. Loose battery connections are the bane of these machines. I even went so far as to add split washers to make sure the connections remain tight.

As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.

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Originally Posted by wagswvu

It's a 2023 FS-S bought last March 2023. It has the factory battery which is the Yuasa. I ran it all Spring/Summer to around 4,000 miles. I stopped riding it around Late October 23; put it away in my garage with a Battery Tender Jr on it. Now it's 2024, I broke it out late March with some rides; but started having VSS fault codes pop up when starting the bike; two so far, only for it to go away in a few min or when I turn it off and restart. When hitting the forums, this seems this indicate a weak battery on startup. The OEM battery did pass a test and when using a voltmeter, it does hit 12 volts, and drops to around 9.5-10 volts when cranking. Generally speaking, the battery would still be in range of "good", but I usually like my motorcycle batteries to stay in the 10 or greater when cranking. My thinking is I'm already doing some mods; new exhaust, slayer turn, so while it's down for those, throw in a new battery or even make the jump to lithium. Just not have this headache anymore.

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Maybe temperature related. Sometimes a cold or several cold days can cause a slow start.

Hi,
I see that Lamsonster lists two NOCO batteries: NLP14 (500 CCA) and NLP20 (600 CCA). Will either fit in the battery compartment in a 2020 and later RT?

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Originally Posted by wagswvu

It's a 2023 FS-S bought last March 2023. It has the factory battery which is the Yuasa. I ran it all Spring/Summer to around 4,000 miles. I stopped riding it around Late October 23; put it away in my garage with a Battery Tender Jr on it. Now it's 2024, I broke it out late March with some rides; but started having VSS fault codes pop up when starting the bike; two so far, only for it to go away in a few min or when I turn it off and restart. When hitting the forums, this seems this indicate a weak battery on startup. The OEM battery did pass a test and when using a voltmeter, it does hit 12 volts, and drops to around 9.5-10 volts when cranking. Generally speaking, the battery would still be in range of "good", but I usually like my motorcycle batteries to stay in the 10 or greater when cranking. My thinking is I'm already doing some mods; new exhaust, slayer turn, so while it's down for those, throw in a new battery or even make the jump to lithium. Just not have this headache anymore.

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That ^ sort of voltage & behaviour while cranking might be sorta just OK for 'old school' vehicles, engines, and batteries, but it is demonstrably inadequate for most modern vehicles and especially so for a Spyder!! Dropping that low while cranking your Spyder generally shows that the battery is either dying or already dead, at least as far as working usefully/reliably for starting your Spyder!! :gaah:

In my experience (with quite a few of these things now ;) ),

if the voltage EVER drops below 12 volts while cranking,

then your battery is not really up to the loads imposed by starting all the electronics AND cranking the starter at the same time, especially if it's cold and it hasn't been loaded up for a while - and most of the straight out 'Battery Tender's' I've seen don't usually do that to any useful extent, while 'Battery Maintainers' DO usually run thru a 'charge, rest, load, re-charge' cycle, which is MUCH better for the longevity of your battery! :lecturef_smilie:

Just Sayin' :thumbup:

I added mine before Lamonster or Baja Ron decided to add them to their lineup. Loving it so far. The only minor downside I have found was during a freezing weather spell when I had not ridden for a few weeks. Simply turning the key on and letting the lights and radio work for 15 minutes warmed the battery to where it had no problem starting. Have a similar situation with flying drones in the winter when the batteries have been in the cold. Need to start them up and let them set spinning the props at idle for a minute or so before liftoff to get good performance.

Other than that, I can't find a downside.

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Originally Posted by JCWeatherman

Hi,
I see that Lamsonster lists two NOCO batteries: NLP14 (500 CCA) and NLP20 (600 CCA). Will either fit in the battery compartment in a 2020 and later RT?

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I think the NLP14 is for a Ryker.

I can attest to the NOCO NLP20 battery starting my F3 much better than the factory battery, my new 2023 bike sat on the show room floor for more than a year and the sales rep pulled a good battery from a new 2023 F3S that was sitting around - its battery was "good", so I was told.... Needless to say, I have zero confidence in the factory (name starts with an "H") battery, and I started hunting a replacement.

I purchased a new sealed battery from ebay at auction for $125.00 shipped...already had a NOCO 2x charger that does lithium.

Mounting was easy, two spacers under the battery and a two of the included foam sticker blocks on the top. The factory hold-down bracket made me a little nervous due to the short spacing between posts, but the foam blocks put me to ease.

Do yourself a favor and pick up a few M6 10-12mm screws for the post so you don't crown the posts, you will receive (2) 10mm and (2) 12mm brass screws that you can make work, I felt the need to break up the connections and changed the screws to stainless with a few internal tooth lock washers.

My new F3-S has the Yuasa. It sat at the dealer for a year before I bought it. At the first sign of an issue, I will get a LIFEPO 4. Lithium battery, if possible. If not, then just a regular Lithium one. I have them in my boat, on a Harley now for 6 years+ and on a Moto Guzzi. Never an issue. You do need a correct charger for them.

Good topic.

Shorai LiFePo4, pretty sure that is the element makeup. Installed in our 2014 RTS. So far very impressed with the performance.

Starts with more authority than any of the Yuasa batteries I have installed so far.

Some folks claim the electrical charging system is not proper or adequate for these batteries. Shorai gives very specific instructions / requirements to check. Our Spyder easily passed every Shorai check.

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Originally Posted by PMK

Shorai LiFePo4, pretty sure that is the element makeup. Installed in our 2014 RTS. So far very impressed with the performance.

Starts with more authority than any of the Yuasa batteries I have installed so far.

Some folks claim the electrical charging system is not proper or adequate for these batteries. Shorai gives very specific instructions / requirements to check. Our Spyder easily passed every Shorai check.

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The exact Model # is Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 Lithium-Iron Powersport Battery. This brand has an excellent reputation in motorcycles and is probably a premier choice. It is about $300.. The NOCO NLP20 sold by Lamonster and others is much less expensive with a good reputation.

So I ended up buying the NOCO battery and dropped it into my Spyder today; and back to my original post, what have people done to secure the battery? My concern is that since the mounting bracket clips are a little long, there is no lateral support preventing the battery from shifting. I'm thinking of maybe grinding the clips to get them drop in, then combining that with the provided pads, it might work. Another option could be using the screw hole in the battery, and getting a long bolt-in washer.

I'd just cut/grind off the edges of those downward facing lugs just enough to get the top bracket to drop down a tad in order to locate the battery laterally, then use the pads provided to pack out the space around the battery wherever there's something to brace it. No need for more screws or anything else... :rolleyes:

My non-OEM replacement battery is a little different to that, but I just used a hacksaw to cut a vertical cut in those downward facing lugs dividing the downward bit into halves, then used pliers & a hammer to bend the outside half of those lugs up & out of the way. I filed the edges smooth, then refitted the bracket, and the remaining downward facing half of those lugs still projects down in order to locate the battery & stop any sideways slipping; while the long thin packing piece with a small edge angled off the top that came with the battery sits on the top/back of the battery to hold the battery firmly forward & hard up against the remaining half of the downward facing lugs... :ohyea:

Easy, and a pretty obvious solution to my particular battery securing issues, even with the incomprehensible franco/someotherlanguage/english translated 'instructions' that came with the battery... :gaah: A pic or a diagram would've sure helped those instructions, just like it would here... But even if I'd ridden my Spyder here this morning (& I didn't! :mad: ) I don't think the restaurant would appreciate me bringing it in to take pics, sorry! :opps:

You can trim the top bracket so that it drops down and secures the battery or you can use some small styrofoam spacers cut to size one on each side and pressed down into place. The top bracket does hold the battery pretty well but if lateral movement is a concern the styrofoam will help eliminate that worry.

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Originally Posted by AndysF3S

You can trim the top bracket so that it drops down and secures the battery or you can use some small styrofoam spacers cut to size one on each side and pressed down into place. The top bracket does hold the battery pretty well but if lateral movement is a concern the styrofoam will help eliminate that worry.

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That's what I did. So for anyone else who find this post and want's to use the NOCO Battery (because I couldn't find any post on this), what worked for me was using both 15mm spacers then apply 3 of the foam squares to the bottom of the battery compartment that will get you battery almost identical to the OEM battery height and help security it. Then grind the top bracket ear/clips until the bracket can drop into the slot. The battery is completely secure and no fear of any lateral shifting. Then I ran charger cable out the back so I could access it without having to have the funk open.