Ok guys and gals, need some advise. Going to look at 2012 RSS SE5, 33,000 miles for $6,850 tomorrow. This sounds almost too good to me, so what should I be looking at to keep from making a mistake?
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Ok guys and gals, need some advise. Going to look at 2012 RSS SE5, 33,000 miles for $6,850 tomorrow. This sounds almost too good to me, so what should I be looking at to keep from making a mistake?
At that mileage I would hope that the plug wires have been changed to the ones that BajaRon sells .... and the hoses to the throttle body are now of the silicone variety ..... also the exhaust gaskets should have been changed to ones HONDA sells of the same size. All three of these parts were known to fail early in the V-twin engines..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkN
Is this a good price or am I walking into a can of worms?
ask if any codes have been shown up from the seller recently. I would ride it for 20 miles, see how it shakes out. if you can't ride it, maybe forget it. If these small maintenence items have NOT been done, you might get something that will need to work on for a while. if your good at taking care of the NEW spyder, then go for it. Twins are known for a canesterectomy.
The V-twin Spyders were last made in 2016 (?) .... so getting parts could be an issue ..... I would check KBB and NADA for average selling prices .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkN
:chat:...Some older Spyders are 'Troubled with Problems'. SO most people stay away from them.
If you have the skills and experience this could be a good 'Project Spyder' for you.
My Tip: Check out the 2014 - 2017 Spyders.
If money is Not an issue, I recommend going with the 2020 - 2022 Spyder of your CHOICE.
What ever you decide Spyders are very fun to Ryde........:yes:........:thumbup:
The RS is a pretty robust beast and there are plenty around with far higher mileages than that.
There's no issue getting service/maintenance parts - but third party extras like hard case panniers, bar extensions, bigger screens, etc can be difficult/impossible to get hold of now so if your going to get one make sure it has the extra's you want.
All the things Bluenight911 mentions in is first post are what I'd call service items that are available and don't cost much to sort if they haven't been done yet. Also they need doing when they need doing e.g. I'd not done my throttle body hoses or exhaust gaskets on my 2011 as they were still fine but I had done the HT leads when I changed the spark plugs for the first time.
If its stock or has popular upgrades (e.g. the ones that are sold by vendors on this site) then no issues, but if it has weird things like non standard wheels, badly made seat or a respray that would be a danger signs for me.
If it has a service history then I'd expect services ever 7500km (4600 miles), though personally I did mine at 5000kms (3100 miles). If you get the VIN from the right hand side of the swinging arm a dealer should be able to give you the service/repair history. This plate will also have manufacture date/version so you can confirm the year.
2008-2012 were the first generation RS's and the 2012 was the last of those so had all the minor niggles sorted. I think there was only one recall to replace the fuel cap.
They are a very rev happy engine and as a result the idle can be slightly lumpy, racing cam like sound.
Common issues:
- Cracked struts on the rear fender, most owners here get them repaired and strengthened rather than replacing them
- Brake warning will come up if the brake fluid is even a teaspoon below full, fixed by it topping up:-)
- Fuel smell after riding - gas cap recall fixed this for some but also caused by fuel getting into the vapor canister - there is a fix for that well documented on this site
I can't comment on price because in New Zealand things don't depreciate like they do in the US.
Look what followed me home yesterday. So far, loving it. Rode 150 miles at 70 - 80 mph with with no problems what so ever. It does need a few things like front tires, front brakes and a headlight replace. Thanks all for the responses. Hopefully this will post correctly.
I suggest you consider AUTO tires, over the Kenda's ( if it still has them ) ..... you will be much happier ..... A lot of dealers won't mount them, but most Tire shops can ( even Walmart ). Just take in the wheels and new tires .... There are video's showing how to do the rear..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkN
Thanks Mike. I also have to figure out why the parking brake won’t set. Ran out of play in the cable. Need more research I guess.
Looks like a very tidy RSS you've got there. Can see it's got the aftermarket bar risers which is great, as that seems to be something people normally change from standard (I liked the standard position but I am long limbed:-)). As Mike said, car tires work better and last longer than Kendas. For the front I'd suggest the cheaper end with more flexible side walls as the tire pressures used on a Spyder are a lot lower than a car - worth having a chat with the tire people you use and letting them know the standard Spyder tire pressures etc as they can advise on what should work well.
The parking brake not setting is very common. You'll find you have to adjust the cable regularly, but you also need to do a 'major adjustment' every so often and I suspect that's what's needed here, I'm also guessing you may have the lever type as they were the ones that tend to need adjustment more regularly and often got left by owners. Here is the page from the manual on how to do it:
Thanks for the shout -out ...... As to getting advice from folks who know NOTHING about Spyders, it doesn't matter if the person has mounted 5000 Auto / Trunk tires. .... that only means He knows how to operate the TIRE machine. Peter and I have used Tire Science to determine what the average PSI should be, in an Auto tire used on a Spyder........ Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by PistonBlown
Obviously things are a bit different over there in the US when it comes to expertise and knowledge at those places. Certainly the place I've always used here has been great. First time there they asked me various questions about the type of riding I did, did I ride all year around, etc and then make three recommendations with explanations on the differences between each and how that would feel on the Spyder. When I had to get my rear replaced while touring had a similar experience at the place I stopped.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Congrats on your new purchase. Nice looking spyder. I had a red 2012 RSS and loved it. As stated before, car tires are the way to go. When I got my RSS I had too much air pressure in the front two, and was bouncing all over the road. I should have known better since I already had a 2014 RT, but for some reason I did not check them until about 2 weeks after owning the bike. Only to find that they had 32 pounds. After lowering things to 17-18 pounds in the front, it was great. Enjoy.
Thank you PistonBlown. I do have the pulley type. I think when the brake pads were changed, the pulley wasn’t put back on correctly. I’ll do a major adjustment on it today and see what happens.
If you are considering side bags for it consider the Mutazu Saddlebags https://www.mutazu.com/collections/m...ard-saddlebags some come with the fitting kit.
Three years ago I picked up a 2010 RSS SE5 with 4000KM ( I am in Canada) got it for $9000 Canadian no issues....I have changed a few things that were my choice but I would change the plugs/wires..... Y gaskets and all fluids all easy to do..... If possible take it for a ride.... If you don't have your license then have the seller take you as a passenager.
Mark, I'd be very careful about replacing light bulbs with LEDs. Unbelievably, they were the cause of a VSS code/limp home mode!! Here's my saga: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ighlight=PhilYQuote:
Originally Posted by MarkN