A few tech questions on the 2013 ST-L

Tried the search for each of these questions, but didn't find clear answers. Please bear with a complete Newbie on these. However, I am a pretty experienced mechanic on both cars and motorcycles so you can base responses on that. Most of these will be maintenance and "Farkle" (term used in my adventure bike forums for adding convenient little accessories) questions. I got the trike cheap so I expected to put some work into it.

1. Adding electrical accessories. I know the Spyder doesn't like additions to it's electrical system. However, I have seen the extenders sold and wonder if they have any history among you all? I am looking to add basic charging ports not a ton of light or anything like that.

2. The centrifugal clutch seems to have been abused by the PO. I get a sharp shudder when it is cold and I start off. I am thinking I will be doing new clutch packs at least, but what else should I be prepared for? Just found the tech bul on this.

3. The GPS didn't come with the bike. I don't use them anyways. Is there a way to convert that to a cellphone mount?

Any input would be appreciated.

1: various accessories require different varieties of connections some simple -some not so simple. & maybe conflict with others.
2:if “clunk” what referring to; perfectly normal all spyders. ** just loud clunk - if something else (slipping get checked out)**
3: convert:dontknow: ever been tempted, could possibly locate a Garmin zumo 660 & just replace. :thumbup::popcorn: there are hard covers could possibly provide surface to adapter phone holder. Or just add a phone mount separately if you like. Vendors on home page has some good ones.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-in-first-gear

Welcome to the Forum & posting gdc! :thumbup:

I'll leave Q's 1 & 3 to others, but for Q2, what you describe sounds a lot like the 'normal' V-Twin shudder that these things have... :rolleyes:

Yeah, I know that there's other similar engined machines that don't have this shudder; and I know the 1330's don't have the same shudder either, but EVERY V-Twin Spyder that I've seen &/or ridden has it; and back in 2013 BRP even did an upgrade on the clutch plates to ensure that it doesn't (well, only 'shouldn't' really! :p ) damage anything! They're a stronger steel or something over the earlier versions - came out in early 2013, and AFAIK, all they really did was make the initial (& normal ;) ) 'clunk' on first engaging a gear juuust a tad more 'clunky' & made the shuddering a bit 'firmer' or more aggressive, but I haven't heard of any V-Twin Spyder having any issues with this once that upgrade was implemented - and without searching for the correct date, IIRC ALL Jan 2013 & up Spyders have it. So when was yours actually manufactured?? :dontknow:

Anyhow, I wouldn't worry about that one - but you should reduce the size of your sig pic - it barely fits on the page of my tablet & makes the post text very tiny; and my phone wouldn't even open this thread cos the platform software won't re-size the pic to fit the smaller screen & it doesn't fit!! So if you want all potential readers to be able to see your posts, you really need a smaller sig pic. ;)

I've got the twin of your bike, but in blue.
Took me awhile to adjust to the spyder and the large THUNK (not the past tense of "think") when going into first or reverse still startles me. At first I thought I had done something wrong. Experience said "This is how that twin engine's trans does its job."
I hope your adjustment time is less!

With the clutch, my first question would be what did the PO use for oil, and what are you using? If he tried a oil that was out of spec, he may have glazed over the clutch plates, which I would replace just for peace of mind. I know sometimes my bike will shutter a little before it warms up, but after it warms up you can do anything you want its rock solid!! But for the most part I let it warm up before I go for a ride, just something I have always done with my sleds and do with my bike, unless I am riding with someone else that's a impatient willey!!

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Originally Posted by Mikey

With the clutch, my first question would be what did the PO use for oil, and what are you using? If he tried a oil that was out of spec, he may have glazed over the clutch plates, which I would replace just for peace of mind. I know sometimes my bike will shutter a little before it warms up, but after it warms up you can do anything you want its rock solid!! But for the most part I let it warm up before I go for a ride, just something I have always done with my sleds and do with my bike, unless I am riding with someone else that's a impatient willey!!

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:agree:..............Mike:thumbup:

My 2013 ST when I bought it had 6,000 miles on it and shudders like that when cold but as soon as I start riding, the next time I take off from a stop it's gone so to me that's normal

Thanks for all the replies. I saw the shuddering is normal. I will be using Rotella T-6 5-40 for oil. T-6 works in all my other bikes and I average 6 digit mileage out of them. I can't speak for the PO, but I already have the filter kit ordered to ensure the future is good.

I tend to start all my used vehicles off with a "maintenance blitz" to make sure I know when things were done. So new plugs, air filter, coolant, etc will be done before any long trips (100+ miles). She does need tires, but that will have to wait until after the holidays. Most likely I will use car tires which seems pretty common. I do wonder if I can "up-size" them a touch and gain a little clearance for the not so smooth roads I tend to be on. Maybe a bit higher (55-60 for sidewalls) tires as there seems to be room?

Right now the wifey is getting used to her and I am following behind on my adventure bike. She loves it except for the "keep it above 4k" thing. The moment she said "I would ride with you if I had one of those," I started shopping. This was her anniversary gift this year. Next summer we plan a long range camping trip together and a cross country trip the next right before I retire.

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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen

Anyhow, I wouldn't worry about that one - but you should reduce the size of your sig pic - it barely fits on the page of my tablet & makes the post text very tiny; and my phone wouldn't even open this thread cos the platform software won't re-size the pic to fit the smaller screen & it doesn't fit!! So if you want all potential readers to be able to see your posts, you really need a smaller sig pic. ;)

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I don't even see it and thought it never saved.

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Originally Posted by gdcpony

Thanks for all the replies. I saw the shuddering is normal. I will be using Rotella T-6 5-40 for oil. T-6 works in all my other bikes and I average 6 digit mileage out of them. I can't speak for the PO, but I already have the filter kit ordered to ensure the future is good.

I tend to start all my used vehicles off with a "maintenance blitz" to make sure I know when things were done. So new plugs, air filter, coolant, etc will be done before any long trips (100+ miles). She does need tires, but that will have to wait until after the holidays. Most likely I will use car tires which seems pretty common. I do wonder if I can "up-size" them a touch and gain a little clearance for the not so smooth roads I tend to be on. Maybe a bit higher (55-60 for sidewalls) tires as there seems to be room?

Right now the wifey is getting used to her and I am following behind on my adventure bike. She loves it except for the "keep it above 4k" thing. The moment she said "I would ride with you if I had one of those," I started shopping. This was her anniversary gift this year. Next summer we plan a long range camping trip together and a cross country trip the next right before I retire.

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The difference between 50... 55 ... 60...or 65 ( sidewall number ) will have little effect on the ground clearance of your Spyder. If you are contemplating riding Off-Road, Spyders are not designed for it ...... Good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by gdcpony

I don't even see it and thought it never saved.

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It was there when I posted that post you quoted, but now that image address has been edited out of your sig field. :dontknow: So whoever removed it, that's achieved the desired result! :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

The difference between 50... 55 ... 60...or 65 ( sidewall number ) will have little effect on the ground clearance of your Spyder. If you are contemplating riding Off-Road, Spyders are not designed for it ...... Good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

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Not looking to offroad it, just get a bit more cushioning for the rims and a little room for the rougher roads that we find out here in the Mojave.

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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen

It was there when I posted that post you quoted, but now that image address has been edited out of your sig field. :dontknow: So whoever removed it, that's achieved the desired result! :thumbup:

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That was me. I don't like annoying people.


Now for another question: The front tires seem to have a lot of negative camber that is wearing the inside of the tires. I saw plenty of videos on adjusting the toe on these (laser) which I will check as soon as the new tires are on (post holiday). However, none on adjusting the camber. With only a quick glance, it didn't appear that the top spindle bolt is cammed for such as I have seen on most cars with MCpherson/Double wish bone suspensions. Also no front preload adjustment which may also help. Is there a secret I am missing here? Are the bolts on the top C-arm AKA Silverado truck style? Or maybe I need to look into another reason for it?

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Originally Posted by gdcpony

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Now for another question: The front tires seem to have a lot of negative camber that is wearing the inside of the tires. I saw plenty of videos on adjusting the toe on these (laser) which I will check as soon as the new tires are on (post holiday). However, none on adjusting the camber. With only a quick glance, it didn't appear that the top spindle bolt is cammed for such as I have seen on most cars with MCpherson/Double wish bone suspensions. Also no front preload adjustment which may also help. Is there a secret I am missing here? Are the bolts on the top C-arm AKA Silverado truck style? Or maybe I need to look into another reason for it?

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Thanks for sorting that oversized sig pic! :2thumbs:

As for the camber issue - Nope, that's not uncommon, and there is no adjustment in the OE Suspension fit out.... ::p . The front shocks were adjustable up until about 2013, but from 2013 on, yours (& mine) missed out on that! :rolleyes: . So the simple answer to why there's so much negative camber is that your springs/shocks have sagged or the ride height was never set properly & so the camber is incorrect for your laden Spyder. :banghead: . Still'n all, there IS a secret fix! :ohyea:

That secret fix is quite simple - it's BajaRon's Pre-load Adjusters! :thumbup: . Go to the Forum Home page & run down the list of Sponsors until you find BajaRon - click on his logo. Then read about how best to contact him, as well as checking out all he has to offer in order to find the Pre-load adjusters for your Spyder, & use that 'best contact method' to touch base with him & work out how to get yourself a set! ;) . IIRC, they come with fitting instructions, a setting tool, and some advice on how to set them properly.... only because of your Spyder's existing condition you also need to make sure that you dial out most of the negative camber by increasing the loaded ride height; then do an alignment to give your bike a little toe in, otherwise it'll be really twitchy to steer, especially thru the corners - if it isn't already! :rolleyes: You might even want to sort that alignment sooner rather than later, but get the adjusters & set the ride height/get rid of most of the neggative camber first, or you'll maybe mess any 'new' alignment up if you do all that later! :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :cheers:

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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen

Thanks for sorting that oversized sig pic! :2thumbs:

As for the camber issue - Nope, that's not uncommon, and there is no adjustment in the OE Suspension fit out.... ::p . The front shocks were adjustable up until about 2013, but from 2013 on, yours (& mine) missed out on that! :rolleyes: . So the simple answer to why there's so much negative camber is that your springs/shocks have sagged or the ride height was never set properly & so the camber is incorrect for your laden Spyder. :banghead: . Still'n all, there IS a secret fix! :ohyea:

That secret fix is quite simple - it's BajaRon's Pre-load Adjusters! :thumbup: . Go to the Forum Home page & run down the list of Sponsors until you find BajaRon - click on his logo. Then read about how best to contact him, as well as checking out all he has to offer in order to find the Pre-load adjusters for your Spyder, & use that 'best contact method' to touch base with him & work out how to get yourself a set! ;) . IIRC, they come with fitting instructions, a setting tool, and some advice on how to set them properly.... only because of your Spyder's existing condition you also need to make sure that you dial out most of the negative camber by increasing the loaded ride height; then do an alignment to give your bike a little toe in, otherwise it'll be really twitchy to steer, especially thru the corners - if it isn't already! :rolleyes: You might even want to sort that alignment sooner rather than later, but get the adjusters & set the ride height/get rid of most of the neggative camber first, or you'll maybe mess any 'new' alignment up if you do all that later! :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :cheers:

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Funny thing. His Ebay page has been getting some orders from me already. The adjusters will have to wait until post holiday though. I have a trip and kids to consider before any big money gets spent on it.

Does make me wonder if there is another spring that'll fit on as well. Maybe an Eibach (my old sports car days speaking). I will have to do some measuring. Maybe the combo of those and the adjusters? His swaybar kit is already on the list for a later upgrade. I have a feeling his parts are going to be throughout the bike after a while.

I saw some expensive $900 shocks that will not be going on though. Hard to justify that for a "toy" my wife will put less miles on than me. And I have 5 bikes to share the miles with too. The now discontinued Fox kit came up, but I doubt I will find one of those. Any OEM type solutions for better shocks? I know in a Subaru outback the H6 front springs are a popular upgrade to a 2.5 OB. and a 6.0L fit right where my 5.3 used to be in my Silverado. Something like that.