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I just bought a 2014 RTS. I am used to doing all my own work on my BMW and we had an interface called a GS911 that was amazing and did everything I needed for only $300. Seems the interface for a Spyder is considerably more money, plus I am confused of what all I actually need and where is the best place to buy? Looking for feedback from those that know what I will need.
rideaway -- have you purchased a service manual? If so, what specific service functions do you intend to perform that require BUDS? Almost all maintenance actions for your Spyder do not require a BUDS although some (eg, bleeding VCM) have better results with a BUDS. Your money and time would probably be better spent on performing a full 48K service, irrespective of mileage, to establish a service baseline. And then EBC brake pads, LED bulbs all around, new battery, and of course you will want some farkles. You'll enjoy your new ride.
Buds for your 2014. Buds2 for 2017 and later models. No matter the buds type you will need a mpi cable/adapter and a windows laptop.
I would qualify this statement slightly. A "Windows Capable" machine. Tablets work great if they have the required RAM and I'm actually running it on a Mac but using Bootcamp with Windows loaded.Quote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
I just point this out in case someone already has something that might work so they don't have to buy a new laptop.
This is the only place you can get it. https://www.powersports-diag.com/en/...erface_unit-noQuote:
Originally Posted by rideaway
Go to license type box and select Spyder & Ryker 1 year. Cost is $611. Additional years for additional money of course. After that license renewals are available for less $$$.
And a computer that runs Windows 10 or 11 really well.
There is a group on FB for support for the BUDS and the Moderator in there Joshua Ramsey sells the software and MPI cable. I'm not sure what his affiliation is but the 10 year license and cable was cheaper through him than anywhere else I had seen it. He occasionally sells refurbed tablets with it preloaded as well.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/242121784214138
Buying a manual will be the first thing I need to do, I will probably get an electrontic version but not sure where is best to buy. I would like to be able to do everything a shop can do. Yes I will do a full service on it and apprently alignment is an important thing to get checked. I has most of the add on's that I want other than trailer hitch, maybe even some I don't want, the windshield is Huge! It has two tone aligator skin looking seat with driver back rest, Baja Ron sway bar and passenger arm rest which the wife wanted as she is worried about falling alseep and falling off. It will be a big change for me and I will really miss the hand brake on my BMW, but it will be much easier for me with the wife on the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by BertRemington
I can't recommend a specific vendor for CD version of manual. If you really really want a paper manual, I have the 2014 Roadster Shop Manual Supplement p/n 219 100 764 which must be used in conjunction with the 2013 Shop Manual p/n 219 100 736 (which I don't have but the information is on the CD). The paper manual is breathtakingly expensive but if you must have paper I'll sell it for what I paid. Cheaper to print out the CD like Isopedella did -- two large binders.Quote:
Buying a manual will be the first thing I need to do, I will probably get an electrontic version
Get the manual from www.canammanuals.com. There are other website addresses available but most all of them go to the same site. There are other manuals out there, supposedly, but the ones from this link are copies of the factory manual with some additional stuff added. No idea if they are legit copies or not. I have my doubts. Since they're really the only ones out there and BRP has to know what's going on, I've decided to overlook the legitimacy issue. The cost is about $25. You can get a paper copy through a dealer, I believe, for a price of several hundred dollars.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideaway
For the alignment info do a search here on front wheel laser alignment. The Rolo system is the best, and I think endorsed by BRP. It's not a BRP specified system so it is not in the factory manual and most dealers don't use it. Since the equipment is tailored for Spyders it's a bit pricey and dealers don't want to pay for it since it's not mandated by BRP.
BREAK-IN INSPECTION - 5 000 KM (3,000 MI)
Using BRP Utility and Diagnostic Software (B.U.D.S.), check fault codes and install required updates.
Replace engine oil and oil filter.
Check clutch fluid level (SM6 model only).
Check brake fluid level.
Check reverse mechanism operation.
Check engine coolant level.
Inspect throttle twist grip operation.
Check lighting system (brake light, hazard warning light, turn signal lights, position lights, license plate light).
Clean brake light switch.
Check operation of control switches.
Inspect the drive belt condition and its tension. Adjust if required.
Check tightening torque of the front wheels lug nuts.
Check tightening torque of the rear wheel axle nut.
Check parking brake operation. Adjust as required.
Check wheels wear. Align front wheels if required.
Check tires pressure. Adjust as required.
Check brake pads and discs condition.
Check passenger handholds looseness.
Check footrests looseness.
Check body panels looseness.
Check operation of storage compartment latches, hinges and key barrels.
Check and retighten exhaust pipe, clamping rings, joints, and gaskets condition.
EVERY 15 000 KM (9,300 MI) OR 1 YEAR (WHICHEVER COMES FIRST)
Using BRP Utility and Diagnostic Software (B.U.D.S.), check fault codes and install required updates.
Replace engine oil and oil filter.
Check clutch fluid level (SM6 model only).
Check brake fluid level. Replace every 2 years.
Check brake hoses
Check reverse mechanism operation.
Check radiator, hoses and water pump.
Check engine coolant level.
Perform a pressure test of cooling system.
Inspect throttle twist grip operation.
Check lighting system (brake light, hazard warning light, turn signal lights, position lights, license plate light).
Clean brake light switch.
Check operation of control switches and passenger switches.
Check condition of fuel hoses, fuel evaporation lines and canister.
Check battery connections tightening.
Inspect the drive belt condition and its tension. Adjust if required.
Check and retighten exhaust pipe, clamping rings, joints, and gaskets condition.
Check steering for abnormal play.
Check tie-rods condition.
Check shock absorbers for leaks or other damages.
Check tightening torque of the front wheels lug nuts.
Check tightening torque of the rear wheel axle nut.
Check ball joints condition.
Check front wheel bearings condition.
Check parking brake operation. Adjust as required.
Check wheels wear. Align front wheels if required.
Check tires pressure. Adjust as required.
Check brake pads and discs condition.
Check passenger handholds looseness.
Check footrests looseness.
Check body panels looseness.
Check operation of storage compartment latches, hinges and key barrels.
EVERY 30 000 KM (19,000 MI)
Replace air filter and clean air filter housing.
Replace clutch fluid (SM6 model only).
Replace the fuel filter (or every 5 years).
EVERY 45 000 KM (28,000 MI)
Replace the Hydraulic Control Module (HCM) oil filter (SE6 model only).
Replace the canister pre-filter.
Replace engine coolant (or every 5 years).
Replace the spark plugs.
Check front suspension arms rubber bushings.
For the most part, accessibility is not difficult just tedious. The worst is removing the air boxes to access the spark plugs and the rear wheel surround to replace the air pump. Sometimes really helps to have a second pair of hands. Many useful videos on YouTube and at LaMonster. Get used to black Torx machine screws and push fasteners (I replaced mine with stainless steel flanged hex head machine screws with rivet nuts as needed -- huge improvement).
Best wishes.