So Mr troop. When are you planning to do the deed and swap out that bar?Quote:
Originally Posted by troop
Please take some snaps or high quality digital images.
So Mr troop. When are you planning to do the deed and swap out that bar?Quote:
Originally Posted by troop
Please take some snaps or high quality digital images.
Not likely for a couple months as it's mid winter :( I did go with the BR Ultra bar. Still planning on going the ramp route.Quote:
Originally Posted by Isopedella
Very similar to my Craftsman aluminum moto jack. $100 for a used one seems expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by troop
My Craftsman version works well, but requires careful placement when raising the Spyder.
At full height, they wobble a bunch.
Still have not gotten a chance to ride my friends Spyder with the new springs.Quote:
Originally Posted by troop
Did BajaRon suggest the Ultra Bar, even with the firmer springs?
Since firmer springs and a firmer bar both contribute to less front grip, and can contribute to a harsher ride, will be interesting how it works for you, especially in wet or slippery road conditions.
As I mentioned, have not ridden my friends yet with the H&R springs and original style BajaRon bar, but the initial feel standing on the floorboards would lean towards a softer swaybar when using the firmer springs, unless a person were heavy.
I did not talk to Ron direct. I did talk to another individual and broke down all of my variables, and they still recommended the Ultra versus the standard. MTV equips all his RT's with their massive HD H&R sway bar and H&R springs without issues. We shall see ????Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Well ... They're currently $232 locally with sales tax. This one was bought last spring, when the owner had a H-D Street Glide. He sold the bike last fall and no longer needed the jack. Works perfectly and looks great. Happy I saved $132.Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Not too long ago you could get one for $179.00 on sale, those days are gone. A hundred bucks for a gently used one is a good deal.
Another question regarding the HF lift. If I use the extensions, and place the lift on the lift rail just behind the sway bar channel, will it lift just the front high enough to place 24" jack stands under the control arms? This will keep the rear tire on the ground with a tire chock behind it.
I back up on to car ramps first then come in from the front and place the pads evenly on the crossmembers with the center frame centered in between the pads, it only takes a couple of pumps from there to place the jack stands underneath the a -arms. Make sure rear brake is on and wheel is chocked.Quote:
Originally Posted by troop
My problem is that I'm getting antsy. While the roads have too much salt/sand debris on them to ride, the air temps are getting into the upper 40*s. I can be comfortable putzing in the garage. I won't have a truck/ramps available to me for a month or so. Lift, car ramps and jack stands are accessible now. Spring fever the first month of February sucks :(
I can hear it calling ya from here Mr Troop.
Got some blocks or something to go with the axle stands for all 3 wheels?
Horizontal lift worked well, and safe for me as in post #2.
Ya have to think what could possibly go wrong.
Take ya no time at all.
Can't beat that. Good buy.
I have the harbor freight lift. It is definitely wobbly but I use jack stands as well. I almost went with the ramps but watched a video where the ramp can still get in the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
I may try Cloverhillcrawlers method of putting the rear tire on a auto ramp. I'll then lift the front high enough to place 24" jack stands, remove the OEM sway bar and lower a bit for Ultra bar installment. Then while under there, install a SE front tube bumper and cat delete pipe :)
I don't put the rear tire on the ramp. I place the car ramps under the rear side of the front wheels so that instead of driving up on them forwards. I back on to them and then lift from the front making sure to use the crossmembers to lift with the center frame centered in between the pad extensions so it lifts evenly .Quote:
Originally Posted by troop
Ahhh.... OK. Yup, I always back up the ramps.Quote:
Originally Posted by CloverHillCrawler
It will do it. Stabilize the front with jack stands...
That's what I did as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by bhbuster
While that works and I am not saying that it is wrong , it appears that the spyder frame is teetering on one pad until you get the jack stands underneath. I personally cringe while looking at that.
Until the jackstands are underneath the weight of the spyder can roll side to side.
If you back onto some car ramps first you can use the extensions (more height for lifting) and come in from the front on the crossmembers and have two stable contact points on the pads that prevents that roll while you get it on the jackstands.
Make sure the pads are not in contact with the plastic covers in the front and are only in contact with the crossmembers or you can stress the plastic and break it.
I would take some pics to show how to do it but I have the CC somewhat disassembled to get in some winter maint. while the salt is back out on the roads and wrap the cat delete which I did yesterday and have some panels removed to add in a little bit more color.
Its under covers and in back of the garage so the silverado can be inside for the snow tomorrow.
:yikes: :agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by CloverHillCrawler
Be safe, avoid bad mistakes.
No, this is not an aircraft I work on. Just a really bad decision on jacking the aircraft using an electric winch as part of the tail tub, that holds the tail down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zxptb3SB5V0
Yup. If it goes.... its very fast and heavy. Get me under there....no way.
Thats why I did the lift in stages and level using blocks and axle stands.
Going nowhere fast and solid as a rock.
But each to their own I guess. What could possibly go wrong?
It took as long to swap the bar out as to lift it up there.
Can only but wonder why its not completed by now.
I actually lifted all 3 wheels off the ground, then secured it with the jack stands.Quote:
Originally Posted by CloverHillCrawler
Well.. I did it. Took about 1.45 hours, giving a few breaks to some pesky vertigo. Smooth install. Used clovercrawler method with ramps. It was just slightly wobbly fully raised, but NO way I would have done it without jack stands. Yay 😊
Congratulation! :congrats: