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Very Active Member
Yes, Ive had it about a week now. It is Hands down the best money I have spent on my spyder! Still waiting on the call to come pick up my RLS exaust. It will be like icing on the cake! I went on a ryde this Saturday with one of my riding groups that likes to ride spirited. It was great!
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Very Active Member
My experience is more like guhn67. No tire burn but it launches like a rocket. The reason is probably my size plus my tires. I run Yokohama S drive in the rear @21PSI.
Oh I just realized you were asking P.W., LMAO
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Active Member
Originally Posted by AY4B
My experience is more like guhn67. No tire burn but it launches like a rocket. The reason is probably my size plus my tires. I run Yokohama S drive in the rear @21PSI.
Oh I just realized you were asking P.W., LMAO
It's okay...the more feedback the better.
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Active Member
They do make a baffle insert for the muffler .....I ordered two to help quite things a bit.
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I'm a very new rider. Never owned a bike ever and now I own a 2016 RS. I just purchased the 2 Brothers M2 exhaust and now i am reading about getting more HP with "flashing" I've only been through the 1st page but I know I want this done to my bike. I live in Ohio so if anyone could message me or direct me in the right direction I would be greatly appreciative.
Thanks in advance!!!
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Very Active Member
I would recommend waiting at least a year. Get to know your RS. It is very fast the way it sits.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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I just got mine back from Wick-It Performance. Holy Crap this thing accelerates!! It is like a Rocket. I also have a RLS Cat Delete with 2 inline baffles with my stock muffler. I'm not getting the rear wheel spin that some are getting. It could be the cat delete isn't developing the back pressure that the cat did. The mid to high RPM this thing just rips!!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by guhn67
I just got mine back from Wick-It Performance. Holy Crap this thing accelerates!! It is like a Rocket. I also have a RLS Cat Delete with 2 inline baffles with my stock muffler. I'm not getting the rear wheel spin that some are getting. It could be the cat delete isn't developing the back pressure that the cat did. The mid to high RPM this thing just rips!!
Excellent...how's your low end launch performance...you said you're not spinning the wheel ..but I want know your torque pull performance from a dead stop to mid range...is it rapid like seat in your pants or at least increased...or is it slow and lagging like it needs time to ramp up to speed ..tell us more.
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From a dead stop. Full throttle maybe a half second lag then it just excellerates like it was shot from a cannon.The Mid to upper RPM it just pulls.In a drag racing scenario it launches pretty good.I was hoping for some wheel spin (Fun Factor) when just messing around.I still think there is not enough Back pressure being generated thru the Cat Delete.I'm going on 150 miles with the new Stage 2 remap.I thought maybe just for piece of mind.Swap the Cat delete back to the Cat for some real world testing.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by guhn67
From a dead stop. Full throttle maybe a half second lag then it just excellerates like it was shot from a cannon.The Mid to upper RPM it just pulls.In a drag racing scenario it launches pretty good.I was hoping for some wheel spin (Fun Factor) when just messing around.I still think there is not enough Back pressure being generated thru the Cat Delete.I'm going on 150 miles with the new Stage 2 remap.I thought maybe just for piece of mind.Swap the Cat delete back to the Cat for some real world testing.
So besides the lack of spin ...fun factor.... everything else is great ..A half a second lag from a dead stop is pretty good torque and response time...put the factory cat back on and compare..let us know your results....but all in all.. that stage II rocks!!!
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Active Member
Just send it in to these guy's and you'll be set. https://wick-itperformance.com/
Waiting for mine to get back any day!
P.W.
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Very Active Member
Ok, you guys got me hyped! I am going on our annual mountain trip next week (taking the Vmax). But once I get back, I will be looking in to seeing how to take out the ECU and sending it off to Wicked Performance. Thanks for all the feedback. Since I don't plan on changing out the exhaust right now, or doing anything to the airbox, I am thinking that the Stage 1 will be my choice. Thanks for all the feedback.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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Very Active Member
The ECU comes out easily. 3 ea 10mm bolts are the easy part. The 2 electrical connectors are a bit fiddy. You have to turn a little lever to undo them. Good light, small strong hands make the job pretty easy. Keep the Max up on both wheels.
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Very Active Member
At Buc-ees they have ethanol free regular gas but it is 92 octane. I filled up.221CFAB5-465C-4E2C-A984-C0564DC03567.jpg
Last edited by AY4B; 06-18-2019 at 01:37 PM.
Reason: To add photo
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Active Member
Does anyone have a photo of the airbox after the stage 2 mod?
2015 RTS
Replaced Catalytic Converter with Lamonster Pipe
Rivco Flag Holders
Tricled wideview mirrors
Garage door opener
Zumo GPS
Ultimate seat
F4 windshield with vent
Doc's belt damper
Value Accessories RAM mount
Baja Ron sway bar and Links
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by El Dorado
Does anyone have a photo of the airbox after the stage 2 mod?
I believe someone posted a pic earlier in this thread.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Active Member
2015 RTS
Replaced Catalytic Converter with Lamonster Pipe
Rivco Flag Holders
Tricled wideview mirrors
Garage door opener
Zumo GPS
Ultimate seat
F4 windshield with vent
Doc's belt damper
Value Accessories RAM mount
Baja Ron sway bar and Links
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Do you get problems with the warranty if you flash the ECU or have any of you got problems because of it?
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so fatboy, telle me more ...
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stage 2 with cat delete still streetable but when you wana go you better hang on i have the very same bike as you bat
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Active Member
Ok why doesnt anyone answer this question ? or did I miss it? Does B.U.D.S overwrite the FLASH when the shop plug the bike in for service or updates??
Lamonster Bumpskid
BajaRon Swaybar
Tricled LED Backup light
Tricled LED Headlight
Lordco LED Signal Light
Jurock Windshield
Sirius XM Satellite Radio
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by Dmartin
Ok why doesnt anyone answer this question ? or did I miss it? Does B.U.D.S overwrite the FLASH when the shop plug the bike in for service or updates??
That depends a whole lot on exactly how the Flash or ECU Upgrade is done! Broadly speaking, those upgrades that are done via the OBD port &/or without removing the ECU from the bike will be more likely to be called a 'flash' and be more likely to be ABLE to be over-written by BUDS or any service work. Still, that level of BUDS change is only likely to happen if the ECU needs another upgrade or a patch fix from the manufacturer; but it certainly is possible & is waaay more likely than if you get one of the better 'remove the ECU' upgrades....
Those Upgrades that are done by removing the ECU & cracking it open to actually physically modify things &/or directly upgrade some of the chips or settings in there are very unlikely to be easily over-written even if the manufacturer applies a patch or upgrade via BUDS &/or the UBD. Usually the only way an operator or technician will be able to even TELL that the ECU has been upgraded 'properly' that way will be if they specifically search for tell-tales, like checking the ECU for signs of being opened, or looking for a changed max rev limit, or viewing the specific settings of the mapping, ie, things they very rarely do &/or most run of the mill techs aren't really capable of doing anyway!
And effectively, the only way to 'completely remove' the 'properly' upgraded ECU mapping is to reverse what was done to achieve the upgrade in the first place, which would entail cracking the ECU open again & replacing any changed components & re-writing any upgraded settings. So, if your ECU has been upgraded 'properly', it's extremely unlikely that it'll be easily recognised by anyone doing any 'run of the mill' servicing or just thru connecting BUDS, and even if they do realise somethings been upgraded, it's even more unlikely that they'll be able to down-grade whatever back to its previous settings via the UBD/BUDS! My 2013 RT's Upgrade has been there for quite a while now, a few years even, and it's had a few services done, been connected & upgraded via BUDS more than just once, and apart from noting that I've always kept it well up in the revs, the ONLY comment from any tech has been after a test ride, when the tech concerned said "that's gotta be the best performing Spyder I've ever ridden. It pulls like a train all the way, doesn't it?! I wish they were all that good!"
But if you bought a cheapy 'upgrade' or 'flash', maybe something you picked up off the internet, & it was applied via the UBD port, then you'll have received exactly what you paid for, ie, a cheapie flash, and that means there's a very good chance that it'll be over-written if they ever hafta plug it in to BUDS to reset or upgrade anything!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-31-2019 at 09:53 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
That depends a whole lot on exactly how the Flash or ECU Upgrade is done! Broadly speaking, those upgrades that are done via the OBD port &/or without removing the ECU from the bike will be more likely to be called a 'flash' and be more likely to be ABLE to be over-written by BUDS or any service work. Still, that level of BUDS change is only likely to happen if the ECU needs another upgrade or a patch fix from the manufacturer; but it certainly is possible & is waaay more likely than if you get one of the better 'remove the ECU' upgrades....
Those Upgrades that are done by removing the ECU & cracking it open to actually physically modify things &/or directly upgrade some of the chips or settings in there are very unlikely to be easily over-written even if the manufacturer applies a patch or upgrade via BUDS &/or the UBD. Usually the only way an operator or technician will be able to even TELL that the ECU has been upgraded 'properly' that way will be if they specifically search for tell-tales, like checking the ECU for signs of being opened, or looking for a changed max rev limit, or viewing the specific settings of the mapping, ie, things they very rarely do &/or most run of the mill techs aren't really capable of doing anyway!
And effectively, the only way to 'completely remove' the 'properly' upgraded ECU mapping is to reverse what was done to achieve the upgrade in the first place, which would entail cracking the ECU open again & replacing any changed components & re-writing any upgraded settings. So, if your ECU has been upgraded 'properly', it's extremely unlikely that it'll be easily recognised by anyone doing any 'run of the mill' servicing or just thru connecting BUDS, and even if they do realise somethings been upgraded, it's even more unlikely that they'll be able to down-grade whatever back to its previous settings via the UBD/BUDS! My 2013 RT's Upgrade has been there for quite a while now, a few years even, and it's had a few services done, been connected & upgraded via BUDS more than just once, and apart from noting that I've always kept it well up in the revs, the ONLY comment from any tech has been after a test ride, when the tech concerned said "that's gotta be the best performing Spyder I've ever ridden. It pulls like a train all the way, doesn't it?! I wish they were all that good!"
But if you bought a cheapy 'upgrade' or 'flash', maybe something you picked up off the internet, & it was applied via the UBD port, then you'll have received exactly what you paid for, ie, a cheapie flash, and that means there's a very good chance that it'll be over-written if they ever hafta plug it in to BUDS to reset or upgrade anything!
whether you flash the ecu by splitting the ecu or flashing via obd port the same ecu tables are being modified both methods read the ecu eeprom then write back modified tables.nothing is upgraded when splitting the ecu other than the ecu tables. In the unlikely event the dealer had to do a full ecu reset tunes would be lost with both methods.Whats cheap about dynojet power vision or maptunerx?
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these companies are not opening up your ECU they are using the same ports that the BUDS use. where did you guys here that they are splitting open the ECU
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