2011 RS SE5 Won't start/shift to Neutral - anyone have shifter wiring schematics?

[DickB]

It sounds like you found the cause of a problem that you introduced. Have you found the cause of the problem that you had in the first place?

[Cadaverdog]

It sounds like you found the cause of a problem that you introduced. Have you found the cause of the problem that you had in the first place?

Most likely the bike didn't start because I shut it off in gear. When it wouldn't start I removed the gear shift lever from the transmission without marking it. If the HCM relies on the transmission to push or pull the piston inside the hydraulic cylinder into it's neutral position and I hit the shifter while the gear shift lever was off the transmission, which is most likely what happened I inadvertently caused the problem when I reinstalled the gear shift lever in the wrong position. I didn't try stepping on the brake while I started it. I was not aware of that procedure or I would have tried that first. I'll find out when I finish messing with the HCM and put the bike back together. I'll be able to see the position of the piston until I reinstall the cover. If it still doesn't up-shift I'll keep on messing with it until it does.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Most likely the bike didn't start because I shut it off in gear. When it wouldn't start I removed the gear shift lever from the transmission without marking it. If the HCM relies on the transmission to push or pull the piston inside the hydraulic cylinder into it's neutral position and I hit the shifter while the gear shift lever was off the transmission, which is most likely what happened I inadvertently caused the problem when I reinstalled the gear shift lever in the wrong position. I didn't try stepping on the brake while I started it. I was not aware of that procedure or I would have tried that first. I'll find out when I finish messing with the HCM and put the bike back together. I'll be able to see the position of the piston until I reinstall the cover. If it still doesn't up-shift I'll keep on messing with it until it does.

Glad you got this fixed ..... many, many folks here will say it doesn't matter if you put it in neutral when you shut the engine off, However I'm not in that camp ..... I ALWAYS leave it in Neutral before I shut it off .....JMHO ...Mike

[Cadaverdog]

Glad you got this fixed ..... many, many folks here will say it doesn't matter if you put it in neutral when you shut the engine off, However I'm not in that camp ..... I ALWAYS leave it in Neutral before I shut it off .....JMHO ...Mike

It doesn't matter if you know to step on the brake when you start it. Unfortunately, I found that out too late. When I found out that I didn't have to put my foot on the brake to start it if it's already in neutral, I got into the habit of starting it up without getting on it, and then letting it run long enough to warm up the engine so that I could check the oil before I rode it. I'll try to remember to check the oil after I ride it from now on, if I manage to fix it so that I can ride it again. I took the hydraulic cylinder on the HCM apart today. When I removed the bellows, there was fresh oil inside. The piston linings looked OK, but since I have it apart, and I had to order new gaskets anyway, I went ahead and ordered new piston linings too.

[Cadaverdog]

I'm back in the wind. Not counting oil and filters (it needed an oil change), a new shifter ($50 - didn't need it, but I replaced it anyway), a service manual ($30), and an engine and transmission oil pressure tester ($40 Harbor Freight - might need it again someday), it only cost me $60 to fix my bike.

If I had taken it to a Can Am mechanic, it would have cost me more to diagnose the problem than it cost me to fix it, including the new shifter, the service manual, and the test equipment!

I could have saved $60 if I had just moved the gear shift lever back into the right position, but I rebuilt the hydraulic piston, and I replaced one gasket I tore taking it apart. Took it for a test ride; Shifted perfectly.