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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
........... JC, I have the GOLD brand and I've seen pics of the Magnet in the Dimple brand ...... It looks like the Dimple has a larger magnet and I think this is the problem .......the larger magnet causes them to drill a larger hole in the plug , thus making the walls thinner, thus the failure...................jmho.......Mike
This may very well be true. I have not seen a snapped off gold plug. What you say about a smaller magnet would make sense as it leaves more metal at the weakest point.
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My 2 cents. I have a '15 RTS, the MP01 listed for the transmission does NOT fit my transmission. (I'll stop there).
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stripped oil plug
Mine did the same, I just welded a nut to the bottom of the striped plug. Now I just use a ratchet and socket
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
On your F3, one plug is torx, the other is hex. What sort of tool were you using? You need a torx drive socket and ratchet, not a key. If the head striped out, the wrong tool was used or not fully inserted.
I do not recommend the dimple plugs. They are worse than the OEM in terms of failure. Having done MANY spyder oil changes, the OEM plugs are just fine if you use the right tools to remove and install them. Dimple refused to stand behind their defective product. Once you see a snapped off Dimple plug, its easy to see why they fail from the very thin wall under the o-ring. Bad product.
I stand corrected.. I guess the other dimple plug with the o-rings is also failing.
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Originally Posted by Semper Fi
I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.
Striped my T plug as well on 1st oil change. Spend the money and buy the Dimple set.
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It baffles me, why folks will spend $20,000 or so on a motorcycle, and then balk at the cost of an aftermarket accessory for it...
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Very Active Member
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I just ordered a set of plugs, gold plugs, on EBay. They cost $43.00. That is better than the $63.00.
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
It baffles me, why folks will spend $20,000 or so on a motorcycle, and then balk at the cost of an aftermarket accessory for it...
What baffles me is why would a company who has to know about the plug problems keep charging as much as 20,000. _32,000 and not address the iissue and solve the problem that would probably not cost them a dollar more to solve.
Kenn
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IMHO if you are not comfortable enough tightening drain plugs without the use of a torque wrench, and/or are stripping oil drain plugs/plug holes, then you should really consider leaving the tools in the toolbox and letting someone else change the oil for you.
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Very Active Member
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
PROOF ?????
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
How is anyone supposed to learn what the proper torque feels like without using a torque wrench? I certainly can assemble nearly anything without one, but why not use it if you have it, assuming it is properly calibrated and you know how to use it? I don't understand this dislike of torque wrenches?
Just so I can "prove" my competence, I took this from this:
To this:
To this:
100% by myself, without needing a torque wrench except engine assembly.
Want further "proof" of my competence, click on the link in my sigline.
Sorry if I seem a bit defensive.
.Sorry if I missed seeing any " Proof " ..................Drew, I trust your opinion ......Mike
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You can call it "Stupid", "Old-Fashioned", or just being cheap; but I just tighten them back up, with the same effort that it took to remove it...
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Very Active Member
Last edited by JimVonBaden; 10-31-2016 at 12:23 PM.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
Of course not!
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
How is anyone supposed to learn what the proper torque feels like without using a torque wrench? I certainly can assemble nearly anything without one, but why not use it if you have it, assuming it is properly calibrated and you know how to use it? I don't understand this dislike of torque wrenches?
Just so I can "prove" my competence, I took this from this:
To this:
To this:
100% by myself, without needing a torque wrench except engine assembly.
Want further "proof" of my competence, click on the link in my sigline.
Sorry if I seem a bit defensive.
Wasn't looking for proof, and honestly wasn't anything directed toward you specifically. Just a general statement. Sorry you got your panties in a bunch... If you've taken anything apart then you obviously know how silly it really is to feel the need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Especially, a steel plug threaded into aluminum. Next people will be asking for what torque specs to use on the body panel bolts. The specific torque on a drain plug with a crush washer or oring just isn't that critical.
However, since you asked on how someone is supposed to get the feel. The way I was taught, and the way I taught my kids is to use mostly 1/4" drive starting out. Nearly impossible to gorilla tighten with 1/4".
Anymore I only use a torque wrench when I have multiple bolts that need to be consistent like on a motor or trans. Other odds and ends too....but not a drain plug.
Which is why I made the statement that if someone isn't confident enough in their ability to tighten a drain plug without feeling the need to throw a torque wrench on there, then maybe they should leave the tools in the box
Best of luck!
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Last edited by DrewNJ; 10-31-2016 at 04:03 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Wasn't looking for proof, and honestly wasn't anything directed toward you specifically. Just a general statement. Sorry you got your panties in a bunch... If you've taken anything apart then you obviously know how silly it really is to feel the need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Especially, a steel plug threaded into aluminum. Next people will be asking for what torque specs to use on the body panel bolts. The specific torque on a drain plug with a crush washer or oring just isn't that critical.
However, since you asked on how someone is supposed to get the feel. The way I was taught, and the way I taught my kids is to use mostly 1/4" drive starting out. Nearly impossible to gorilla tighten with 1/4".
Anymore I only use a torque wrench when I have multiple bolts that need to be consistent like on a motor or trans. Other odds and ends too....but not a drain plug.
Which is why I made the statement that if someone isn't confident enough in their ability to tighten a drain plug without feeling the need to throw a torque wrench on there, then maybe they should leave the tools in the box
Best of luck!
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I just threw in the proof because some here seem to need it to even listen to the new guy.
As for using a torque wrench, I still fail to see the harm in it, especially for someone starting out wrenching. I do believe that certain critical fasteners should be properly torqued. This includes wheels, brake components, etc. If you disagree that is fine, your call on your bike. I would not trust my bike to someone who looks down on others for wanting to be sure, and I sure would not belittle others who wish to use their torque wrenches on their bikes.
Oh, and body panel screws are usually 8-10Nm.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Personally, I've never felt the need to be accepted by any particular group, and have never been one to try and post up "proof" of any accomplishments. I have nothing to prove and have never cared what anyone thought or believed, especially on an internet forum. But hey, whatever works for you....👍
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Last edited by DrewNJ; 10-31-2016 at 05:35 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Personally, I've never felt the need to be accepted by any particular group, and have never been one to try and post up "proof" of any accomplishments. I honestly have never cared what anyone thought or believed, especially on an internet forum. But hey, whatever works for you....👍
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Cool, then I am perfectly comfortable disagreeing with you!
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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Very Active Member
Even though I don't have a 1330 engine, I wanted to thank SemperFi and Copperman for starting this thread and answering it quickly. I now know about Gold plugs, Dimple Plugs, and alternatives, but have decided I'd get the goldplugs myself and do this maintenance myself.
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Cool, then I am perfectly comfortable disagreeing with you!
Glad your making yourself comfortable😎
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Common sense guys...Torque specs are assumed dry unless otherwise stated. The torque specs are originally implemented for production/assembly. From there they are later extended out to service manuals.
Most torque wrenches are considerably larger/longer than a regular socket or box wrench. The extra size transitions to extra leverage making it much more possible to strip threads. You really have to try to strip threads with a regular wrench.
You guys really like to over think something so simple. Snug it, tug it and be done.
Ride more, worry less!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Common sense guys...Torque specs are assumed dry unless otherwise stated. The torque specs are originally implemented for production/assembly. From there they are later extended out to service manuals.
Most torque wrenches are considerably larger/longer than a regular socket or box wrench. The extra size transitions to extra leverage making it much more possible to strip threads. You really have to try to strip threads with a regular wrench.
You guys really like to over think something so simple. Snug it, tug it and be done.
Ride more, worry less!
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Saying the length of a torque wrench is the problem is like saying the strength of the person is the problem. What is a "tug", how does that translate to properly crushing a crush washer? I'm pretty sure someone who can't properly use a torque wrench is no more likely to properly use a regular wrench! You are under thinking it.
Jim
2013 ST-S (wife's)
2015 BMW R1200GS (mine)
1981 Yamaha XS400 Scrambler Custom (mine)
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