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Shorter-reach bars
I have the "short-reach" handle bars on my F3T. But I wish they were about 1.5 to 2 inches closer. I don't get to enjoy the "sit back & stretch out" of the F3 because I have to sit up to drive it. To the extent I do sit back, my arms are like zombie arms. It's really tiring on my arms and shoulders. Joe (Cptjam) suggested risers, but I can't find some that suit the F3 handlebar mounts. (If anyone knows of some they think would work, please post here.)
So im putting this out there. I wish some enterprising SL vendor would come up with some risers that would work. I'd buy them in a minute. I'm gonna pm Lamont about this. But there may be others who'd be interested.
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Originally Posted by PrairieSpyder
I have the "short-reach" handle bars on my F3T. But I wish they were about 1.5 to 2 inches closer. I don't get to enjoy the "sit back & stretch out" of the F3 because I have to sit up to drive it. To the extent I do sit back, my arms are like zombie arms. It's really tiring on my arms and shoulders. Joe (Cptjam) suggested risers, but I can't find some that suit the F3 handlebar mounts. (If anyone knows of some they think would work, please post herebar
So im putting this out there. I wish so me enterprising SL vendor would come up with some risers that would work. I'd buy them in a minute. I'm gonna pm Lamont about this. But there may be others who'd be interested.
Try loosening the bar clamp and turning the handlebars down a couple inches , will bring them closer . Worked for me , hands used to get numb on long rides , no more
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Be careful rotating the bars down. When turning to full left lock, switch housing may hit the body above the gas tank.
H2O
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Very Active Member
Patti,
Check out Rox risers, they have a variety of risers for different bars and extensions. Although none are specifically made for the Spyder, you should be able to find a set that fits. The caveat would be cable length.
roxspeedfx.com.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PrairieSpyder
I have the "short-reach" handle bars on my F3T. But I wish they were about 1.5 to 2 inches closer. I don't get to enjoy the "sit back & stretch out" of the F3 because I have to sit up to drive it. To the extent I do sit back, my arms are like zombie arms. It's really tiring on my arms and shoulders. Joe (Cptjam) suggested risers, but I can't find some that suit the F3 handlebar mounts. (If anyone knows of some they think would work, please post here.)
So im putting this out there. I wish some enterprising SL vendor would come up with some risers that would work. I'd buy them in a minute. I'm gonna pm Lamont about this. But there may be others who'd be interested.
It seems you need someone to machine one or a different handlebar. Hope you get some relief soon.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Very Active Member
These may work, they look like they could be angled if there is enough room to clamp the bars on each side of the stock clamp.http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...n-pivot-risers
Last edited by Highwayman2013; 09-17-2016 at 08:26 AM.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Originally Posted by spyderpagan
Try loosening the bar clamp and turning the handlebars down a couple inches , will bring them closer . Worked for me , hands used to get numb on long rides , no more
They're rotated down as far as possible with still being able to turn fully.
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If I am picturing the risers like on a Harley. The idea of changing the risers would work. They can be made higher/ lower or back more.
All that would need to be done is replace the risers and then remount the handlebars.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by trikermutha
If I am picturing the risers like on a Harley. The idea of changing the risers would work. They can be made higher/ lower or back more.
All that would need to be done is replace the risers and then remount the handlebars.
If you look at the clamp BRP uses it is angled at the outer edge so you need a riser that can twist to a parallel position to fit the bars. The clamp on the F3 looks to be one big piece but without having one it's hard to speculate.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Here's what the handlebar mount looks like.
image.jpg image.jpg
I dont think hunk any of the Rox products will work.
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does someone sell pull back F3 handlebars??
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Patti,
If the grips and switches just slide on over the handlebar ends, (I think that they do), you just need to find some new handlebars of the same diameter, but with a different bend...
(They clamp onto the bike in the same manner!)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PrairieSpyder
Here's what the handlebar mount looks like.
I dont think hunk any of the Rox products will work.
Although the top bracket is angled rather than square, I think that the Rox would have enough length for the bracket to get sufficient purchase on the Rox. Maybe an email to Rox along with the photo would elicit a response?
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She's already using the shortest reach bars, that BRP offers...
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The riser block that is used for the F3 Drag bar would be about right, but you cant just buy the riser block
you have to buy the whole set, bars included
Drag Bar.jpg
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Hmm.
If those risers from the drag bar work with your short reach bar and may solve the problem, keep an eye out in case anybody takes the drag bars off their Daytona in favour of another bar, then grab the drag bar AND riser, and just use the riser part. I've filed this snippet away in case my planned new short reach bars need a bit of help. My s-r bars are for husband's "old" F3S as he's hoping-to-buy the Daytona and already doesn't want the drag bars, just not for him he says.
Just a thought...
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All model f3 have the same lower steering column p/n 709401397.
Theoretically. Try ordering the p/n 709401680 black lift posts X 4 and the p/n 231103060 Srew socket m10 x130 mm. I would get these and try them as the cheapest quick fix not sure what colour they are could be yellow but black paint can fix that.
it appears that these may bring it closer by 90 mm. Not sure but you may need this also
p/n 709401775 black handle clamp assembly. I think this is just a minor upgrade to make the bars tighter or maybe does not have a pin.
Failing that.
Just a suggestion . . Take them to a competent fitter machinist to insert 50mm sleeves to each side.
the bars are hollow and nothing is in the middle. A good machinist and tig welder can do it. It would just necessitate getting them powder coated.
i have chrome short reach and they are really good. I found that having foot boards helped out as well, the cannonball seat also sits you a bit differently.
let us know how you go as their are a few people who would like this option also.
Last edited by bigwhammy; 09-19-2016 at 01:16 AM.
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Originally Posted by bigwhammy
All model f3 have the same lower steering column p/n 709401397.
Theoretically. Try ordering the p/n 709401680 black lift posts X 4 and the p/n 231103060 Srew socket m10 x130 mm. I would get these and try them as the cheapest quick fix not sure what colour they are could be yellow but black paint can fix that.
it appears that these may bring it closer by 90 mm. Not sure but you may need this also
p/n 709401775 black handle clamp assembly. I think this is just a minor upgrade to make the bars tighter or maybe does not have a pin.
Failing that.
Just a suggestion . . Take them to a competent fitter machinist to insert 50mm sleeves to each side.
the bars are hollow and nothing is in the middle. A good machinist and tig welder can do it. It would just necessitate getting them powder coated.
i have chrome short reach and they are really good. I found that having foot boards helped out as well, the cannonball seat also sits you a bit differently.
let us know how you go as their are a few people who would like this option also.
ill look up the part nums when I have better bet access and see what you're meaning. But I don't understand about the sleeves idea.
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Originally Posted by PrairieSpyder
ill look up the part nums when I have better bet access and see what you're meaning. But I don't understand about the sleeves idea.
Take your handle bar off, they then cut just after first bend. A sleeve is an insert machined at the same diameter as the bars with both ends machined down to go inside the bar.
they can then tig weld it to you bar after marking the parts to align properly.
they then can polish the joints and then powder coat paint it.
there is about 80 mm 3 inches in the first bend so the sleeve can go 1/2 that into the existing bar.
from memory the cables can be pulled out about 2 inches. They go through a wire clamp before coming out near the 4 bolts.
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Seems complicated ....
I've only couple hundred miles on the F3S, but the bars are too tall for me and I'm 6'2". And, I've had many bikes. Several I've had to have risers added ... some, I've had a machinist make me some custom riser / pull back deals. All worked well.
I must say that the bars on the this bike will need some modification. But, you can't just rotate them down since they just ... JUST ... miss the tank as they are.
So, looks like you'll need some wider bars with more pull back ... a riser deal on the stem ... this should allow for a more lower position and more pull back as well. Making the bars closer to the rider and lower ... but, with a wider reach as well. I guess this would work. ??
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