look into a plastic welder/plastic staple machine. I have done numerous repairs on Spyder plastic body panels, including re-attaching broken-off tabs that the push pins go in. A decent setup will give you numerous staple options, including inside and outside corners.
So now we know that it's for tupperware cracks, is there any chance you could tell us which panel, what year model Spyder, maybe even how the crack occurred??
Maybe give us a bit more (orright, maybe give us a lot more - as much as you can, would be good! ) detail about the where & why parts of whatever it is you're trying to repair?? The more info you can give us, then it's likely the better the info you'll get in return. There are some panels on our Spyders where broken tabs just aren't worth repairing; there are some panels where the plastic is a little different to that of others; and there are sometimes better solutions than plastic welding for some of the panels too?? Just as an example, because of what I saw as a poor design in the tab on one of my 2013 RT's panels, a tab/clip that broke, very nearly seeing me lose that panel (a panel that others HAVE lost & had to replace at significant cost! ) and then getting a very poor result from the recommended plastic welding repair option; I borrowed an idea from a completely different panel on an earlier RS Model and I've replaced the tabs/clips on that & another of my RT's panels with D-Zus fasteners. Much better solution, looks OEM, positive locking, and I'll never risk losing that panel again!
So again, the more info you can give us about the why's & wherefores of your need for plastic repairs, the better we'll be able to help.
I bought a used RTL 2019 a few weeks ago and found this while replacing the seat strut. I repaired it and 99% is hidden under the seat. Just fishing for proven alternatives for repairing plastic in the future. I used jb weld plastic repair compound and it worked fine.
Here is the repair. Note: 99% hidden under the seat.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-20-2024 at 08:33 PM.
Here is the repair. Note: 99% hidden under the seat.
Well, Rick, I think that you have done superbly. JB Weld. You took the words right out of my mouth. No amount of ABS plastic welding will make the crack invisible, unless it was then refinished and repainted. And, if it was welded from the back side, it could interfere with the fitment of the panel. And, I've seen plenty of ABS welds crack. It looks as though the crack goes all the way to the edge of the panel, so even a stop hole would not be necessary, either. It has already spread to the edge.
Because it is a 2019, that panel is probably available from the BRP parts system and you could get a new one, if desired. So, get out there and start riding. Be safe.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 04-20-2024 at 06:14 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, RLS CD w/ baffle, P238
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
I have had good luck with JB weld .... ( the type that takes awhile to cure ) ..... It also helps a great deal if you add a thin piece of sheet metal or even thin aluminum to the back of the crack .... I have used this method to attach broken MOUNTING tabs back onto a panel ..... Good luck ....Mike
I'm currently using acetone and old LEGOS - these are ABS plastic and melt in the acetone. A Glass airtight container will be needed. I use white Legos, but there are a multitude of colors. These usually take 24 hours to melt into a "slurry" to repair cracks/tabs etc. Add a few more Legos if it's too runny. The area may need "support" to allow it to cure in place.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-22-2024 at 01:21 AM.
I'm currently using acetone and old LEGOS - these are ABS plastic and melt in the acetone. A Glass airtight container will be needed. I use white Legos, but there are a multitude of colors. These usually take 24 hours to melt into a "slurry" to repair cracks/tabs etc. Add a few more Legos if it's too runny. The area may need "support" to allow it to cure in place.
As a Lego collector, I am appalled at your murder of innocent Lego bricks!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-22-2024 at 01:22 AM.
2024 CAN-AM Celtic Spyder RT Sea to Sky
2023 Honda Ridgeline Sport
As a Lego collector, I am appalled at your murder of innocent Lego bricks!
I appreciate your concern for the inhumane treatment of LEGOS....however, rest assured, they are giving new life and donating altruistically to a broken tab or a otherwise cracked portion of Tupperware. BTW I only could build a column so I'd be lying if I said I loved legos......
I used a method like Mike described in post #11 on a broken area on one of my bikes. First, I removed and cleaned the part. Then super glued them together. The crack was nearly invisible. Then I applied a thin layer of JB Weld along the back side perpendicular to the break. Before the JB completely set up I pressed a serrated nail with the head clipped off into the JB. After that set, I covered it all with another coat of JB Weld. I let it cure overnight and resisted the temptation to play with it or test its strength. I believe that broken area became much stronger than it was originally. A little polish and some wax and it was never thought of or even noticed again. Good luck..... Jim
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
I have used both methods, JB Weld and the Lego/acetone method; but instead of nail heads, I took a small piece of zero steel wool and pulled the strands or "fluffed" it, mixed it into the adhesive, and applied, similar to a fiberglass method. Both worked great for me.
Ryde safe.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-01-2024 at 11:12 PM.
2014 RT Limted, platinum, with matching 622 trailer.
Ultimate tall boy seat w/adjustable back rest, Corbin armrests, Spyderpops bumpskid & missing belt guard, BRP side air vents, Lamonster lidlox, cargo nets, Stebel air horn, Wrap my spyder accents......and more
I have used both methods, JB Weld and the Lego/acetone method; but instead of nail heads, I took a small piece of zero steel wool and pulled the strands or "fluffed" it, mixed it into the adhesive, and applied, similar to a fiberglass method. Both worked great for me.
Ryde safe.
It is easier to get some aluminum screen repair material and either use your method or better yet melt it in with a soldering iron and flat tool. The repair is crazy strong!
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Originally Posted by RickyRed
) and then getting a very poor result from the recommended plastic welding repair option; I borrowed an idea from a completely different panel on an earlier RS Model and I've replaced the tabs/clips on that & another of my RT's panels with D-Zus fasteners. Much better solution, looks OEM, positive locking, and I'll never risk losing that panel again! 
