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View Full Version : BajaRon anti-sway bar install



JasonAM
03-28-2013, 11:35 PM
Ok last week I got my bajaron anti sway bar. I'm dying to install it, but unfortunately, my frunk is currently not working. So my question is. How difficult is it to install the bar without removing the frunk

mcaccamise
03-29-2013, 12:22 AM
Remove two bottom frunk bolts right and left and pry back to gain room to remove the bolts and slide the bar out.

MrLooney
03-29-2013, 12:46 AM
It is very easy even if your just a little mechanically inclined. jack up the front of your :spyder2: about a foot off the ground. You can loosen the bottom of the Frunk or just wedge a 2X4 and spread Frunk away from the frame. Remove the old Anti Sway Bar. KEY POINT INSTALL ALL NEW HARDWARE THAT CAME WITH THE SWAY BAR. Wrap a find wire or string around the new bolts. Then feed the wire or string up through the "U" bracket and hole in the frame to pull the bolt through instead of using your fingers in such a small area. this will speed your installation time considerably. Loose fit the new sway bar and center the best you can. Tighten all bolts and then check any other bolts you may see just a precautionary measure. Maybe take you 1.5 to 2 hours trime. Now put your Spyder on the ground and find the TWISTIES AND GO LIKE A BAT OUT OF HELLO!! :spyder2::spyder2::spyder2:

Chupaca
03-29-2013, 01:57 AM
If you got your bar from Ron the instruction are clear on changing procedures either way. It is quite simple if you take your time. Good luck your going to love your new unit...:thumbup:

JasonAM
03-29-2013, 02:22 AM
Oh yeah I definitely got the instructions. It just seems like Ron recommends removing the frunk. I was just wondering if it is difficult to do without removing it. I'm sure I will get it on there. I'll keep you all posted

jthornton
03-29-2013, 06:44 AM
I just installed a BajaRon sway bar last week and the instructions do not tell you to remove the frunk. If your doing this on your own cut a 2" long piece of 2x4 and after following the instructions to remove the needed bolts and fasteners to be able to lift the frunk up enough to remove the sway bar put the 2x4 between the frunk and the frame and it will hold the frunk for you.

On your first ride as spring is approaching move your windshield all the way up so you don't eat too many bugs with that big smile...

John

Bob Denman
03-29-2013, 06:45 AM
Hi Jason! Even I managed to get the job done with the frunk still on the bike... :thumbup: Once you get the Spyder up in the air; it's pretty easy to see what you need to do in order to be able to get to the "clamps" that hold the bar in place. There's two bolts that hold the frunk down there; pretty close to the clamp's attaching points. pull them out, and GENTLY pry the frunk out about an inch or so... and prop it in place on each side. (That way you can remove a prop to work on a side...) You can get to those clamp bolts easier if you kind of contort yourself so that your upper "wrenching arm" enters the tangle of Tupperware from out front; just above the "wings"...Good luck!:thumbup:

StanProff
03-29-2013, 07:25 AM
Ok last week I got my bajaron anti sway bar. I'm dying to install it, but unfortunately, my frunk is currently not working. So my question is. How difficult is it to install the bar without removing the frunk

ON the RT the frunk needs to be open to pop off the service panels on the left and right and then to remove the bolts #68 in the instructions. If yours is a RS it may be different.

ABQAndy
03-29-2013, 08:24 AM
I did my install last week and it went well, about 2 hrs. I am assuming that when you say your frunk is not working that you can't open it? If that is the case I don't think I would try to take out the two bottom bolts and pry the frunk forward to do the install because you might damage the tupperware:yikes: Just my thoughts.

bzbaeren
03-29-2013, 08:35 AM
You defininately need to remove those two upper bolts to prevent damaging the upper end of the frunk.

Netminder
03-29-2013, 08:38 AM
My BajaRon bar is at the post office, waiting for me to pick it up. Just arrived, I can't wait to put it on!:yes::yes:lots of time though as there is still about 3 ft of snow on the ground and a huge snow bank in front of the door where the Spyder is resting!:yikes:

Sarge707
03-29-2013, 09:31 AM
I tried the block of wood stuff BUT it got in the way- I Had a Trolley jack on the front bottom of trunk "Centered" and as you jack it moves froward slightly and did a great job of keeping the trunk up and out of the way and you could still lay down on either side and work.nojoke

BajaRon
03-29-2013, 09:31 AM
The install instructions vary somewhat depending on which Spyder model you have (RS series or RT series). I believe you have an RS series Spyder.

The RS series Spyders have a very easy Frunk removal process. It is easier to install the Sway Bar with the Frunk off but I detail the install procedure for both Frunk off and Frunk on methods. Either will work and both are relatively easy.

The RS series Spyders have a much more difficult Frunk removal process and I do not recommend it, nor do I give instructions for this approach on the RT model Spyders. It is much easier and quicker on the RT's to simply remove 4 bolts (2 upper and 2 lower) so that the Frunk can be moved the 3 or 4 inches necessary to do the sway bar install.

I highly recommend what I almost never do. Read through the instructions completely before beginning the install. I know, I get excited and I just want to put my new farkle on and try it out. But reading completely through the instructions with a focused head will not take very long and it will pay off every time.

Good luck and let me know if you need any help.

JasonAM
03-29-2013, 10:43 AM
Yeah I got the RS-S. I was reading the instructions last night shouldnt be a problem. This will be my Friday night project:yes:

BajaRon
03-29-2013, 10:44 AM
Yeah I got the RS-S. I was reading the instructions last night shouldnt be a problem. This will be my Friday night project:yes:

Great! Hope you love the bar! :thumbup:

JasonAM
03-29-2013, 10:48 AM
So before I get into this project does anyony think I will encounter problems due to my frunk not being opened? Once I remove the 2 bottom bolts, will i be able to pry the frunk forward while the frunk lid is closed?

bmwlarry
03-29-2013, 10:55 AM
This is what I did.


65483

bmwlarry
03-29-2013, 10:58 AM
Here is link to an install photo album
http://s808.photobucket.com/user/lkniess/library/sway%20bar%20install

Hope it helps

ThreeWheels
03-29-2013, 11:20 AM
So before I get into this project does anyony think I will encounter problems due to my frunk not being opened? Once I remove the 2 bottom bolts, will i be able to pry the frunk forward while the frunk lid is closed?

You may encounter difficulties.

The instructions require you to remove 4 bolts that hold the frunk in place and take off the cover plates over the two top access panels one of which is for the BUDS connector.
You need to open the frunk lid in order to remove the two access panels. Removing the FOUR bolts and the two access covers allows for the frunk to wiggle out of the way. It's debatable whether or not removing two access panels on top is required, or merely "more better", but if you only take out the two bottom bolts, the frunk will remain immobile.
You need to move the frunk out of the way to access the two upper bolts on the u-clamps that hold the sway bar in place.
Also, there are threads on how to open up the frunk manually by removing the side access panel and reaching up to activate the latch.

Have you read the instructions ?
Not everyone has the same degree of ability. If you are having this much trouble understanding the instructions, perhaps this may be beyond your talents.
If I was closer to you, I'd be more than happy to come over and help.

bmwlarry
03-29-2013, 11:26 AM
Repeat - do not remove the frunk to do the install.

BajaRon
03-29-2013, 11:33 AM
So before I get into this project does anyony think I will encounter problems due to my frunk not being opened? Once I remove the 2 bottom bolts, will i be able to pry the frunk forward while the frunk lid is closed?

You should fix your Frunk as you will want the lid open whether or not you decide to remove the Frunk. Be careful with advise from RT owners. Their install is similar in some ways but not the same in regards to how the Frunk portion of the process is handled.

The RT Frunk has similarities with the RS Frunk but there are very important differences as well. Stick to the instructions you received to install this bar on your RS model Spyder.

mcaccamise
03-29-2013, 11:36 AM
Well i finally ordered my sway bar cant waite for it to come and experience the more stable ride,ill be mounting it without removing the frunk should be a breeze with the info gained here Thanks Ron.
Mike

Netminder
03-29-2013, 03:33 PM
This is what I did.


65483
Nice and simple spacer!:thumbup:

bmwlarry
03-29-2013, 05:10 PM
OOPS! Sorry, I didnt notice it was not an RT!

Mike X
03-29-2013, 05:39 PM
I am so going to get me one of them sway bars for my new baby , might ride her a bit first though , so I can feel the difference .

Bob Denman
03-29-2013, 05:45 PM
That's a good idea, Mike! :thumbup: Another option that you can try, is to pick up a set of shocks off of an RT model; preferably a 2011 or later... They'll stiffen up the front end a bit also for you. :2thumbs: (Should you feel the need... ;))

NancysToy
03-29-2013, 08:02 PM
Let's get back to the trunk. What is the problem? If the cable is still attached and intact, it can be accessed (sometimes with difficulty) through the left side by reaching inside the body panels. Pull on it to openb the trunk. If the key just won't turn readily, something is probably pushing against the trunk lid. Have someone push down hard at the latch, or bang it with their hand repeatedly, while you turn the key. The usual culprits are too much junk in the trun,k or weatherstrip or a trunk liner that has pulled off (or was improperly installed) and is in between the lid and the flange. Easily fixed once you get it open. It could also be, or be aggravated by, improper latch adjustment and/or inadequate lube on the latch and post. If the key has no resistance when turned, the cable has likely come loose or is broken. Sometimes you can sneak between the lid and the body with a long screwdriver to push the catch, or from the other side with a coat hanger to snag it and pop it loose. If worst comes to worst, see your dealer.

FaranH
03-30-2013, 09:35 PM
So before I get into this project does anyony think I will encounter problems due to my frunk not being opened? Once I remove the 2 bottom bolts, will i be able to pry the frunk forward while the frunk lid is closed?

Per the advice of Spyderpops, Dad and I also removed the two bolts at the back of the panel where the fog lights go. It gave us more play in pushing the frunk forward because the tupperware wasn't as restricted in its movement.

StanProff
03-30-2013, 10:20 PM
Per the advice of Spyderpops, Dad and I also removed the two bolts at the back of the panel where the fog lights go. It gave us more play in pushing the frunk forward because the tupperware wasn't as restricted in its movement.

:thumbup: I am sure that is the reason for removing those two bolts, it allows a little more play in the frunk while it is being pulled out a little. I also loosened the two top bolts just a little and that seemed to free up the movement a little more. It was cool in my garage and I didn't want to take any chances on things being brittle. :gaah:It would be my luck to pry on it and something snap!!

BajaRon
03-30-2013, 10:57 PM
I will need to take a look at these suggestions. I may need to alter my instructions a bit. There is always a better way! Thanks! :thumbup:

JasonAM
03-31-2013, 02:10 PM
I definitely have confidence in my ability to do the job. I was just iffy bout my prob with the frunk being stuck closed . I jacked it up and got under it after removing the scuff plate I noticed there really isn't much to it, but I am going to take Ron's advice and wait to get my frunk fixed. Its a 2012 still under warranty guess I'll wait to take it in. I will try n find the forum thread about manually opening the frunk

StanProff
04-01-2013, 09:25 PM
Nice and simple spacer!:thumbup:

Ohh No! your bar is upside down :yikes:

mcaccamise
04-02-2013, 03:05 AM
Well guys i received my bar today and boy what a difference in appearence and size a good quality piece it took me about an hour and a half to install and align properly being the bar was longer than the original.
It was an easy install even without removeing the frunk with the prying out about an inch the key is to center the bar so the links have equal play on both sides for movement.
I installed the bar attaching it by the clamps and also the links and then centered it for about 1/4" play turning the links for center,once completed i then tightened the attached clamps an tightened all hardware.
It was to late to go for a ride so tomorrow i wll take a maiden ride cant waite im sure she will handle like on rails will report back after the ride tomorrow.
Mike

Bob Denman
04-02-2013, 07:28 AM
:congrats: We already know that you're going to love the change... :2thumbs: :ohyea::yes:

mcaccamise
04-02-2013, 09:56 PM
My RSS is now happy gobbleing up the road flat and straight just as i expected thanks again Ron.:yes:

spyderman526
04-03-2013, 12:07 AM
Ok what year and model are we working on and what size is the sway bar that is being installed I just got an 2012 RSS sway bar its 15.88 mm sway bar I have a 2013'STS iam putting the RSS bar on is there a bigger bar than this on how big is the barjon bare

mcaccamise
04-03-2013, 12:42 AM
Its not so much the size of the bar but the tincel strenth of the steel he uses to make his bar far more superior than the stock sway bar.
Looking at my stock 2012 RSS sway bar compared to the Ron bar doesent appear to be much diference in diameter though the length and angle seems to be changed to give it better flex abilitys and as many on here have said it makes all the diference in ride and control.
Mike

BajaRon
04-03-2013, 01:12 PM
Ok what year and model are we working on and what size is the sway bar that is being installed I just got an 2012 RSS sway bar its 15.88 mm sway bar I have a 2013'STS iam putting the RSS bar on is there a bigger bar than this on how big is the barjon bare

I am a bit confused here. The OEM pre-2013 RSS sway bar is roughly 13 mm in diameter. My RS model custom sway bar is 14.3 mm in diameter (with a higher spring rate steel).

The 2013 RSS sway bar is 15.85 mm in diameter (there will be slight variations). The 2013 sway bars are completely different and are not interchangeable with earlier models.

So my question is, are you saying your 2012 RSS came with an OEM sway bar of 15.88 mm? Or are you saying you purchased a 2013 RSS sway bar and plan to install it on your 2012 RSS?

dtkennney
07-03-2013, 02:35 PM
I am not an rt owner yet,but why does't the manufacturer put a better sway bar on the trike.

bullant12
07-03-2013, 02:38 PM
I am not an rt owner yet,but why does't the manufacturer put a better sway bar on the trike.

This sway bar is call a modification. For some, the sway bar is fine as it is, but some like to improve it so they modify it.

Same with cars... you buy a car with your options, but some OEM options are not your preference so you modify it.

Preference...