What brand are the OEM Connectors?

[doncanfix2]

Does anyone know what brand of connectors are used by BRP? I apologize in advance, in the event this has been posted before, but my search terms haven't (yet) turned up such specifics. I am doing modifications and like to fabricate my own wire harnesses; I'm all about quality and doing a job once so I prefer DIY. I'm no novice at this and have over 45 years of experience in electronic assembly, including wire harness design and manufacturing and board-level component installation repair/re-work (TH/SMT/BGA/LGA); I get immense pleasure doing this stuff.

Thus far I found in my Spyder files a paper copy of a five-position, in-line connector made by EDAC (Ontario,Canada), and I don't for the life of me remember where I got this (pain getting old!); taillights use a five-pin. The wiring I'm doing is lighting, but just in case BRP used several manufacturers, I'd like to know them all.

Also, attached is a photo of the high-mount brake/TS light I mounted, made by Show Chrome, but modified. My Spydie is a 2018 Limited, dark edition and I wanted to stay with that theme, the Show Chrome only comes in, you guessed it, chrome, so I painted it gloss black. Would luv to know the paint code for the trunk badgeing panel, a metallic grey color. Might even re-paint to match that, and now that I think further, maybe I'll paint the badgeing panel gloss black. Its all good!

Yes fellow ryders, the lighting unit housing comes apart easily, and the three, well made ( BigBikeParts!), sealed (the housing is not sealed but the LED units are), LED light units come out of the two-piece housing. The wiring inside is fastened with an industrial grade of hot-melt glue but is fairly easy to remove (used a crafts-grade to re-fasten) without damaging the housing. Note, painting over chrome is not for the inexperienced, it requires a bit of careful surface prep and, for a blemish-free finish, a very clean area to spray (a filtered-air spray booth is best).

Appreciate any help you may be able to provide! Ryde On!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Does anyone know what brand of connectors are used by BRP?

Most of them are AMP SUPERSEAL 1.5 SERIES Connectors, or equivalent, from TE Connectivity. A few are Deutsch connectors. I bought them by the pieces from www.Newark.com. There is a special crimping tool that should be used to put the terminals onto the wires but I got by with regular pliers. Newark has hundreds of thousands of connector parts and pieces so do a search on the above phrase. I think www.mouser.com also has them. You can find made up pigtails on eBay.

Here's a manual with info on how to assemble the connectors. https://www.distrelec.ch/Web/Downloa..._5_eng_man.pdf. There's also this one: https://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/t...88-746061.html.

I discuss here how I used them. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...railer+harness

[Woodaddict]

i have worked with TE for 12 years now. AMP> Tyco Electronics > TE Connectivity. all over the world, hum....about 84,000 employees last count i saw
sorry you got good info, i can't help in that

[doncanfix2]

IdahoMtnSpyder,
Many thanks! Great documentation in your prior post , plan your work and work your plan. AMP, yes, and thanks for the additional links. After this morning’s research , yep, I now see the molded-in TE moniker (under magnification). Yes, I've crimped many a pin my ryder friend, both with a hand crimper and by production machine (when you have 10,000 cables to make amounting to 100,000 terminations you (the business) buy the machine! (Did a short stint at Wabtec Railway Electronics, production floor was 60,000 sq.ft., amazing machines they had!)

When designing, I get mfg samples, but when you know exactly what you want, direct buy. Fortunate for me, another hat I wear is buyer for those electronic components I assemble, good to have that experience. And you are correct, pliers when you don’t want to drop >$200 for a crimping tool on only a handful of pins. Knowing the crimp integrity requires very specific jaw placement and force applied over the pin “ears” to meet the specifications (wire pull-out, vibration, etc.), but I am no longer wiring up a cables for 200-ton locos. I follow up the plier-method by tacking with a finite amount of solder ONLY in the crimped area. Pre-tinning the wire and flux “wetting” the junction after the crimp minimizes heat application time, and hence solder creep (to where you don't want it ); these pins aren’t intended to be soldered!

Again, many thanks!
~Don

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I follow up the plier-method by tacking with a finite amount of solder ONLY in the crimped area. Pre-tinning the wire and flux “wetting” the junction after the crimp minimizes heat application time, and hence solder creep (to where you don't want it ); these pins aren’t intended to be soldered!

Again, many thanks!
~Don

You're welcome! I don't remember for sure how often or how many, but I also soldered the terminals after crimping. Like you say though, you have to be careful not to get too much solder in there. And the crimp has to be round, not flat, otherwise the pin won't fit the housing!

[trikermutha]

Check with Value accessories or Tricled for the connectors. They may even have it made up with pigtails and dont need to splice.

That is how mine was setup and plugged into the tail light harness.

[K80Shooter]

Check on Value Accessories site. They have several and some of them are oem.

[jiffy]

I have used Muyi Connectors. From both Amazon and Ebay.