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2011 RSS. Has a squeaking sound in the lower left rear at lower speeds - any ideas what it might be?
- Thread starter Guy
- Start date
Woodaddict
Well-known member
Is the belt riding against the rear pulley flange? Needs to be a credit card away going forward, not backwards. If riding without the proper clearance, this could make the squeaking sound. With a 2011 model, it could also be rear axle bearings. Check it out and get back here with a message so we can better diagnose.
Bfromla
Well-known member
Any Service history? Hopefully the rear bearings have been at least packed. Sorry, I'm not sure of the replacement mileage, but they should be checked & re-pack at every rear tire change (3~5k??) Also check the shock & that nothing's dry or rubbing, as things do get tossed up there.
Thank you, will do.
My Spyder is no cream puff, she's been well used. They wanted to sell me a new one, but I was like, nah, this lil' Spyder needs me.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well, you're a good guy that gives a Spyder a good home. Now then, let's look up stuff and not go by memory. You have two different types of bearings on the rear wheel. The sprocket bearing is a double row bearing because it takes the stress of the belt tension. The wheel bearings are standard ball bearings. They are all sealed bearings with no periodic requirement to re-pack. I know, I know, there are those that say you can pop off the seal and shove some grease in there, but why would you do that for a 12 dollar bearing if the bearing is already squeaking. The replacement mileage is 31K miles or if it has been pulled out of the hub. I never replaced a wheel or sprocket bearing after 70K miles. They're that good. The same bearings are used from 2008 through 2021, I believe.
Let's focus on the belt. Get a bit of warm water and Dawn soap, wash the belt, leave it wet, and go out and test it the way that you know will re-create the problem. If the squeak is gone, then guess what? It's the belt. Check the alignment and re-align if necessary. Check the belt tension. There was a bulletin that reduced the belt tension on the pre-2013 Spyders down to 450n. Essentially, 100# with the frame jacked up with the rear wheel off the ground hanging by the swing-arm. Most techs forget about that and adjust tension to current values. Get yourself a Gates Krickit (Cricket) gauge.
There also was a bulletin to eliminate a squeak/squeal by putting a small dab of synthetic grease on the rear sprocket. Go ride it and let it work its way all over. It will eventually evenly distribute.
The thing is, if you are going to give a Spyder a good home, you need to do the maintenance. Here's an owners guide and shop manual. Good Luck.
www.operatorsguides.brp.com
brpmanuals.com
Let's focus on the belt. Get a bit of warm water and Dawn soap, wash the belt, leave it wet, and go out and test it the way that you know will re-create the problem. If the squeak is gone, then guess what? It's the belt. Check the alignment and re-align if necessary. Check the belt tension. There was a bulletin that reduced the belt tension on the pre-2013 Spyders down to 450n. Essentially, 100# with the frame jacked up with the rear wheel off the ground hanging by the swing-arm. Most techs forget about that and adjust tension to current values. Get yourself a Gates Krickit (Cricket) gauge.
There also was a bulletin to eliminate a squeak/squeal by putting a small dab of synthetic grease on the rear sprocket. Go ride it and let it work its way all over. It will eventually evenly distribute.
The thing is, if you are going to give a Spyder a good home, you need to do the maintenance. Here's an owners guide and shop manual. Good Luck.
3-Wheel Vehicles > 2011 | BRP GUIDES
www.operatorsguides.brp.com
2008 2009 2010 2011 Can-Am Spyder GS RS Series Repair and Maintenance Manual Master Collection
New updated full digital version as of 5/2019 Professional Keyword Searchable Factory OEM Manual - 1370 Pages Covers the entire 2008-2011 CanAm Spyder RS / GS series (all versions) Contains over 650 pages of extra content that was not included in the book including: The full BRP 712-page...
brpmanuals.com
Thanks. My Spyder is no cream puff, she's well used. They tried to sell me a new one, but I was like, nah this lil' Spyder needs me.Well, you're a good guy that gives a Spyder a good home. Now then, let's look up stuff and not go by memory. You have two different types of bearings on the rear wheel. The sprocket bearing is a double row bearing because it takes the stress of the belt tension. The wheel bearings are standard ball bearings. They are all sealed bearings with no periodic requirement to re-pack. I know, I know, there are those that say you can pop off the seal and shove some grease in there, but why would you do that for a 12 dollar bearing if the bearing is already squeaking. The replacement mileage is 31K miles or if it has been pulled out of the hub. I never replaced a wheel or sprocket bearing after 70K miles. They're that good. The same bearings are used from 2008 through 2021, I believe.
Let's focus on the belt. Get a bit of warm water and Dawn soap, wash the belt, leave it wet, and go out and test it the way that you know will re-create the problem. If the squeak is gone, then guess what? It's the belt. Check the alignment and re-align if necessary. Check the belt tension. There was a bulletin that reduced the belt tension on the pre-2013 Spyders down to 450n. Essentially, 100# with the frame jacked up with the rear wheel off the ground hanging by the swing-arm. Most techs forget about that and adjust tension to current values. Get yourself a Gates Krickit (Cricket) gauge.
There also was a bulletin to eliminate a squeak / squeal by putting a small dab of synthetic grease on the rear sprocket. Go ride it and let it work its way all over. It will eventually evenly distribute.
The thing is, if you are going to give a Spyder a good home, you need to do the maintenance. Here's an owners guide and shop manual. Good Luck.
3-Wheel Vehicles > 2011 | BRP GUIDES
2008 2009 2010 2011 Can-Am Spyder GS RS Series Repair and Maintenance Manual Master Collection
New updated full digital version as of 5/2019 Professional Keyword Searchable Factory OEM Manual - 1370 Pages Covers the entire 2008-2011 CanAm Spyder RS / GS series (all versions) Contains over 650 pages of extra content that was not included in the book including: The full BRP 712-page...
I'm glad I did, this thing runs like a scalded dog!
Had her up to 105 MPH, not bad.
Freddy
Active member
The sprocket bearing is a double row bearing because it takes the stress of the belt tension.
This bearing can get a little loose in the sprocket/pulley. Grab the pulley and 6 and 12 o'clock positions and wobble it see if it has movement. This happened to mine many moons ago.
See reply 3: https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/rear-wheel-bearings.118626/#post-1421602
Also, I a great believer in flipping the bearing seals out and adding a few dabs of grease at every second tyre change - a whole lot easier than R&R with new bearing, which come with only a tiny lick of grease from the factory.
This bearing can get a little loose in the sprocket/pulley. Grab the pulley and 6 and 12 o'clock positions and wobble it see if it has movement. This happened to mine many moons ago.
See reply 3: https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/rear-wheel-bearings.118626/#post-1421602
Also, I a great believer in flipping the bearing seals out and adding a few dabs of grease at every second tyre change - a whole lot easier than R&R with new bearing, which come with only a tiny lick of grease from the factory.
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