Can anyone identify this? Found on top of Piston #1 on a 2015 RT 1330

I found this on top of Piston #1 using a cheap bore scope. I’m going to remove the injector today. The picture on the screen does not show that it looks like a little pile of shredded metal. The engine was running when I started investigating the lack of power and poor fuel consumption at 9,600 miles. I don’t see how this could be a pile of anything considering combustion has been going on. In my opinion, the best case scenario is the material was around the base of the spark plug when I removed it. I removed the stick coil and then the plug. I should have been more diligent and blew out or vacuumed out around the plug following pulling out the stick coil. I was too eager to get the plug out to see how it looks. I’m doubtful it’s that simple since the spark plug looks like it has been burning richer and possibly oil fouled. #2 & 3 looked lightly tanned.


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Thank you for your response. Yes, #1 is on the right. I’m going to pull it out carefully, in a clear tube with a de-soldering bulb so I can inspect it. I’ll be pulling the injector/fuel rail to test and inspect the injectors. From there I’ll decide if I’m going to pull the head off. This is my second poor purchase on a reverse trike. The first was a Tilting Motor Works Trio kit in a 2006 Honda Gold Wing GL1800. It needs a few new parts, but I cannot get them from Acrimoto. They are trying to restructure out of bankruptcy, and it's taking them years.

KX5062 said:

It doesn't look like metal to me. It looks like normal carbon fouling from either too rich fuel mix or burning a little oil. The color of the plug indicates one or both of these conditions are present. Too rich a fuel mix is the easier problem to chase. However, I'd suggest replacing the plugs, which you've already done, and then ride it for a few thousand miles and then pull and check them again. (It takes a while to get a good read on new plugs.). It doesn't appear to be that serious to me, from what I'm looking at, to be overly concerned.

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That sounds great. You might just be my new best friend. I’ve always driven or ridden old stuff and have been fortunate to never have had much trouble getting them to run well for decades. I’ve never encountered something like this. I’ll be pulling it out this afternoon and I’ll post the results. Thank you.

Sorry, I did not get back here and clarify this. I do not have it back together, getting there slowly. I had two other vehicles beg for my attention and a couple of friends and brothers get down ill with the normal 60-70’s issues in Ohio.
I have been searching the heck out of this and other forums. Direct investigation showed that it was not metal, just discoloration. I tried vacuuming it out through clear hose into a clear container with negative results there. I was happy about that. I then used a long swab dampened with intake cleaner. All I got was black carbon. I believe as mentioned by someone earlier, it was most likely the led light from the borescope playing tricks on me.
I finally got around to ordering new O rings for the injectors and the 90° fitting on the fuel line. That was just in case I broke a $15 plastic part.
I’ve cleaned off the oily foam pieces above the air boxes and replaced with a foil backed Mylar product.
From reading the sage advise of other Can Am Spyder technicians, I have a few grounds to verify, the wire into the lug, not just the bolt to frame, and I have color coded the wiring diagram and identified the circuit that was giving me trouble in my trip. One 40 amp primary fuse and through the main accessories relay and off to a couple of other lesser fuses. If I don’t capture the gremlin this time I will have my list of devices to check their operation. I will be able to narrow it down. I am very certain I had two problems. One was the #1 injector leaking, it was the only one that tested with a crappy spray, which cleared up with cleaner, and number 2 is an electrical gremlin. LFB (J4, R3, F7), and RFB (F6). I switched F6 to RFB F7, which stopped the rear acc plug from not charging my iPhone. However, the problem was most likely still there, I just selected the un-switched source. Also, I discovered that whomever generated the wiring diagram for the 2015 RT-S made several labeling errors.
Lengthy and I will do another update in February. And I had to go back and edit this 1 minute after posting it.