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Spyder shopping - 998 vs 1330, is the 1330 that much better?
- Thread starter Slickster
- Start date
pegasus1300
Well-known member
I have owned a 2012 998 V-Twin SE5 RT since 2015. I now have 81,000+miles on it and it is running strong. I love my V-Twin. Your biggest problem is going to be finding someone to work on it. Parts are pretty common and there are salvage yards also. If you can do your own work you will be ok. They are relatively easy to work on, lots of videos on you tube, and a shop manual is available. As long as you can do the work you shouldn't have much trouble. The problem will arise when you cannot do the work yourself, either from age, infirmity, or lack of knowledge. Always expect one of the three, or another unforeseen event. It will be more money, but I suggest you find something that a dealer will still service. Even if you don't plan on using them.
hogmemberisold
Active member
That pretty much effects all of us one way or the other...
BajaRon
Well-known member
Which motor is better depends, like most things in life, on what you are looking for. Parts for the 998 V-Twin are not that hard to find if you know where to look. Just because they are not listed at the dealership or a parts house, does not mean you can't find them readily available, in most cases.
The V-Twin sounds better than the 1330. Not a big deal for many, but definitely a perk if you're an owner.
I think the 998 is quicker than the 1330. I've not yet had the chance to drag race the two. But the very suspect butt dyno tells me the V-Twin is faster. Especially over a stock (non- Pedal-Box or Power Commander modified version). Granted, most do not purchase a Spyder thinking of hitting the drag strip. But get up and go is almost always a factor with people who ride.
My virtually worthless opinion is that if you can work on your own machine, the 998 is a great way to get into the Spyder world. The 2 worst versions are the 2010 and 2013 RT. I can elaborate if someone is interested. However, that being said, the engineered shortcomings on these 2 versions can be mitigated fairly easily and usually for a relatively small amount of money and effort. Both are basically sound with some caveats that I recommend correcting.
The upside is that these 2 versions are usually less expensive than others due to the negative press they have gotten. Though frankly, the buyer is usually not aware until after the purchase.
The 1330 is a worthy motor. BRP has improved suspension, handling, and creature comforts on the later models. Service interval is extended, though I have some issues with that. And oil consumption is down to zero. Though at least some of these can be improvements can be brought close with a V-Twin model.
A 1330 Spyder is going to cost you more. But that is fair and reasonable.
The V-Twin sounds better than the 1330. Not a big deal for many, but definitely a perk if you're an owner.
I think the 998 is quicker than the 1330. I've not yet had the chance to drag race the two. But the very suspect butt dyno tells me the V-Twin is faster. Especially over a stock (non- Pedal-Box or Power Commander modified version). Granted, most do not purchase a Spyder thinking of hitting the drag strip. But get up and go is almost always a factor with people who ride.
My virtually worthless opinion is that if you can work on your own machine, the 998 is a great way to get into the Spyder world. The 2 worst versions are the 2010 and 2013 RT. I can elaborate if someone is interested. However, that being said, the engineered shortcomings on these 2 versions can be mitigated fairly easily and usually for a relatively small amount of money and effort. Both are basically sound with some caveats that I recommend correcting.
The upside is that these 2 versions are usually less expensive than others due to the negative press they have gotten. Though frankly, the buyer is usually not aware until after the purchase.
The 1330 is a worthy motor. BRP has improved suspension, handling, and creature comforts on the later models. Service interval is extended, though I have some issues with that. And oil consumption is down to zero. Though at least some of these can be improvements can be brought close with a V-Twin model.
A 1330 Spyder is going to cost you more. But that is fair and reasonable.
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Noting and backing the 'opinion' comment with my own, for my 2 cent's worth, I would suggest that once the Heat Recall and any other out-standing recalls have been done, the 2013-2016 Spyder models that retain the V-Twin motors are actually by far THE ABSOLUTE BEST of the V-Twin Spyders AND any of the subsequent Spyder models too, bar none; cos not only did the 2013-2016 V-Twin models get all the braking, suspension, and handling improvements intended for the 1330 equipped Spyders that the 2014's came out with; they don't have all the electronic/digital dash crap that few really need and many don't want; they kept the much livelier, more responsive, and far more exciting to pilot V-Twin motor; AND they remain quite a few kgs lighter than the heavier 1330 equipped models too!!
So in my humble and in no way biased opinion 
they are STILL the ABSOFREAKINLUTELY BEST of all the Spyder models - and btw, despite the higher & quicker revving engine using some oil due to the tolerances that are necessary to allow those higher revs/quicker response, they're a lot more reliable, less problematic, don't have all that digital dash crap, and are nowhere near as prone to dash &/or electrical issues as the 2018 & on Spyders are too! 
As for a direct performance comparison, I'm not at home right now, meaning that I can't even search thru the archives for them, so I don't have the 'back to back comparison times' handy, but even before my 2013 RT Ltd had a magic wand waved over it by Rotax Racing and ECU-Xtreme (here in Oz) and with my aging and slower abilities as a rider, it could fairly easily show all the earlier model Spyders and even the hardest ridden 1330's (and everything else for that matter) a clean pair of heels in the tight curves and short straights of the Adelaide Hills and on the local test track (altho on one 'test track day' just before the ECU Upgrade, an earlier 'slightly modded' RS ridden by a very competent former international bike racer did give me more than just a little bit of a scare, but I squished down a little deeper into the warm stuff building in my pants and hung on to beat him by a small but measurable margin!) and it always took quite some time for all the others to catch up once the curves started opening out and the straights started getting longer, especially out on the plains - the dirty great wall of air Spyders hafta push outta the way does come into play there, but the 1330's have both more weight AND more bulk, so therefore more air to move too!! All of which adds up to the lighter, smaller, and more nimble 2013 with the more responsive and quicker revving V-Twin motor and the better brakes simply being able to carry more speed deeper into a corner, any corner, even one with compromised traction; brake better/quicker/harder; and then get on the gas and up to speed earlier and quicker coming out of the corners in a way the heavier and bulkier 1330's simply can't! And the 2010's have many of those same advantages, just not the better brakes and handling features, which as mentioned by others, are some things which can be fairly easily remedied!
And now that the ECU Upgrade has been done on my 2013 RT, not only can it out-pace pretty much anything in the tighter stuff (which is a bit of a pain, cos the moment any 'Spyder' leaves them for dead anywhere in the Hills, the local Constabulary come knocking on MY door!
) and yet when it's just cruising, it gets pretty much the same fuel economy as any carefully ridden 1330, altho the 'about a gallon smaller' useable gas tank capacity still does mean that it doesn't quite get the same range... and also due to the ECU Upgrade, if I can't resist the temptation to tap into all the extra power and open it right up, it can fry just about any rear tire in seconds, as well as gulp down a tank of gas quicker than I can drink anything!! 
Still @Slickster, I'd suggest that if you upgrade the brakes & rims/tires on your 2010 by fitting the Brembo calipers & discs/pads etc, or at least something better than the OEM kit (ECB? Martin the Vlogger?? etc?); fit 15" rims up front and a set of better traction, handling, and better quality (than the OEM/clones) 'real' car tires all round (run at about 18 psi for the lighter load of a Spyder vs a car!); fit an improved sway bar; and maybe better shocks & coils too (you might want to check out IKON shocks/coils, only do ASK them, maybe even call the Oz Head Office, don't just look at their local cataldog, which is notoriously not up to speed!
); AND then get an ECU Upgrade done (Stage 2 is the thing your local bods offer I believe?!) in order to unleash at least some of the additional power/torque that BRP doesn't deem the average Spyder Rider is capable of handling, then you'll have a bloody good and likely a fairly reliable Spyder on your hands for years and tens of thousands of miles to come, and it won't have too much in the way of annoying electronics or useless dash features either! Only one thing, be aware that the livelier V-Twin motor just might spoil you forever too, like it has many of the rest of us - there's a distinct possibility that once you've ridden a good V-Twin powered Spyder (especially if it's had an ECU Upgrade & is pushing out GoldWing or better levels of power & torque!), you won't ever want to 'down-grade' to any of the lower revving, less exciting to ride, 1330 powered Spyders! 
Just Sayin'
Thanks for the feedback, at 71, coming off a year of serious illness, getting back to life, the performance of the new to me Spyder is impressive. Quick, comfortable, easy to ride, don't really need all the gadgets but, oh well... the wife and I really enjoy what the Spyder has to offer...
blacklightning
Well-known member
What you said above, makes all the difference in the world. I almost picked up a 20k mile 2010 about a year ago for $2500. The only thing that stopped me was the fact that I had a 2021 RTL and a 2016 F3L already in the garage. I wish I had picked it up for my brother, but by the time I told him, it was gone. Like you, he is a retired certified machanic. Him and my uncle are 2 people that I say, "if they can't fix it, throw it away because it can't be fixed".
BajaRon
Well-known member
The 2010 RT is basically as sound as any year model, V-Twin RT. It just needs a little help to be a fantastic performer.
There are some generic things that the 998 needs regardless of year or model. Canister-ectomy, (to prevent gas fume smell and to keep it from going up in flames) crankcase vent mod, (to keep oil out of the air intake system). Both are easy and cheap. Just bad engineering corrections.
The 2010 RT came with the worst front shocks of any Spyder, followed closely by the 2013 RT. Almost anything will work better. You can find later model takeoffs that don't cost much and will improve ride and handling a great deal.
Though not technically necessary. A sway bar upgrade will make a world of difference on any Spyder. But even more so on the 2008-2012 models.
If the engine begins to misfire, replace the wires with good quality, solid copper core center and DCPR8EIX Iridium IX spark plugs. You're wasting your money to replace the wires with OEM BRP originals or other carbon center parts.
With these changes, you will lower maintenance costs, increase reliability, and the transformation of the machine will amaze you. The fun and enjoyment level goes way up. A 2010 RT set up this way will well outperform any stock V-Twin RT of any year.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
That is a tough one as there are many variables. Where you are located can make a big difference. Though I prefer the manual, typically, they do not demand as much money as the more popular SE model. As with any used vehicle, look at as many as you can. Even if you are not particularly interested in a certain offering. The more you can get familiar with, the better you'll be able to spot a good deal when you see it.
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