Code C0040 and C006C

[Wmoater]

I have 2 things going on but I am pretty sure I know the root of the problem. Driving today in a huge rainstorm. Rain stops and about 3 hours later I am approaching a stop light and it changes immediately. Hit the brakes come to a stop. The VSS symbol comes on solid. The wheels did not spin or loose traction. I go to pull forward and limp mode icon comes on. I pull over turn off, start and nothing. Everything clears. No icon and limp mode gone. I start down road come to a coasting stop at the next stop light. same thing. I hit the mode/set and push turn signal and C0040 AND C006C appear. Turn machine off run again restart and all good. About an hour later same thing but now I’m told by a passing driver I have no brake lights. I check sure enough no brake lights. Checked fuse 10 amp fuse is fine. I have installed two things 3 weeks ago. Spyderpops brake, turn run light with rapid flash and tricled rapid flash plate brake. Everything else is working. Turns, running, 4 ways perfect. So if fuse is good I should first take the back apart, disconnect both 5 pin harness and restore to original state. If original state has brake light working, Then attach one harness at a time to figure out if it’s the plug or module. I find it hard to believe a module would short out system since the plug an plays are direct. On spyderpops there’s 2 modules. One for each side so how could both be out. The tricled is only one side so I’m apt to start there. I checked the battery connections. Disconnected and connected again with a good ratchet. Checked the passenger seat connection. It only kicks in vss around a sharp turn on coasting brake but it doesn’t do it all the time though. The brake lights are definitely out though. I’m thinking this is all related. Any suggestions before I rip into her tomorrow?

It’s a 17 RTL

 

[Peter Aawen]

Check this thread out:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...codes-C0040-and-C006C-meaning&highlight=C0040

Or this one, which reports how he solved it:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...6C-with-Limp-Home-Mode-fixed!&highlight=C0040

 

[Wmoater]

UPDATE..... Just removed all the plastic. Disconnected both tricled and spyderpops and only plugged in Oem plug to both tail light assembly. NO BRAKE LIGHT! So it’s not those two it’s in the bike itself. Just noticed I have s squeek when depressing brake pedal

 

[Wmoater]

Update #2. Neither of the above links would apply. I have everything working, (turn, running, emergency) accept brake lights. I disconnected my led bar and it’s set back to Oem and nothing. Neith Brake pedal switch failure (BLS). er 15 or 10 fuse blown. Cleaned everything. I tested the brake light wire in the 5 pin that the taillight plugs in. No power. All the others have power. The Oem plate light has power. So it has to be before the 5 pin plugs since neither side has power. Can’t test globes since 5heres no power to them. I started bike and can’t get codes to come back. Parked uphill pushing brakes, coasted with foot on brake, took a sharp turn on dirt and spun the wheels. No codes but still no brake lights. I’m thinking it has to be the brake switch. I’ll have to call dealer. Guessing it’s going to be a month wait. I. I still have a year of warranty left. I can’t ride it if I have no brake lights. That’s just asking for accident. Out of curiosity.....anything else to check? Brake fluid looks a touch low only in front cup. Maybe half teaspoon. Don’t hear anything from the brake area itself rubbing. Actual brakes work fine just no brake lights. What’s wierd to me is why is it a vss code not abs or brake code? It’s brake related not traction. I did replace brakes 3 moths ago. Could I have damaged the rear wheel sensor that’s looped through the rear brake housing? 6mm hex I think it was with a bunch of washers. That was 5000 miles ago though!

 

[Wmoater]

I was told to clean the switches really good since I was out west recently and it’s been in the rain. I also live on a dirt road. I know where the parking brake switch is! I’ve clean that every year. Where are the brake pedal switches? I have it jacked up and on ramps. So I can see behind the brake pedal but I see no wires. Side panels need to come off? Where is the switch?

 

[K80Shooter]

Brake switch trouble shooting is easy and so is replacement if needed. Not sure about cost or availability. Weigh the cost vs waiting a month to ride then make a decision on what to do.

If it were me and the switch was bad I would just replace it myself.

 

[Wmoater]

Where am I looking for the switch on the bike?

 

[K80Shooter]

I just saw your last post. I would have thought it was around the brake pedal, if you cant locate it try starting at the brake fluid container and follow everything from there forward, you should find it that way.

 

[Wmoater]

Is this the switch. I see this directly against the pedal housing. What is there to clean. It’s enclosed? I was looking for a limit switch.

 

[Wmoater]

Had to re upload

 

[K80Shooter]

I just found it on my 2020 Spyder also on the right side at the rear of the floorboard. Check where the plunger/switch actuates and make sure that it moves freely both in and out. There should be a short wire harness attached to it, try unplugging it and check connections/clean here. I am trying to do a pgf on the trouble shooting so give me a little time.

 

[K80Shooter]

For what ever reason I cannot do a pdf or print out the trouble shooting tips on mine. Keep in mind that mine is a 2020 where your's is a 2017 so they may not be the same. Maybe someone else can help, sorry.

 

[Wmoater]

I’ve used air and spray bottle. When I move my brake pedal I hear no click at all. It sounds spongy. I’ll look for the clips. I see where they head straight up. Do you hear a distinct click when you push down on pedal?

 

[K80Shooter]

I’ve used air and spray bottle. When I move my brake pedal I hear no click at all. It sounds spongy. I’ll look for the clips. I see where they head straight up. Do you hear a distinct click when you push down on pedal?

I'm 98% deaf, I hear nothing. Try checking with an ohms meter if you have one. check continuity without pressing the brake pedal and again when the pedal is mashed. Also check voltage the same way.

 

[K80Shooter]

Here is an example, all testers are similar.

How to Test for Continuity with a Digital Multimeter
May 9, 2021 | 101 Learning, Multimeters

Turn the dial to Continuity Test mode. It will likely share a spot on the dial with one or more functions, usually resistance (Ω). With the test probes separated, the multimeter’s display may show OL and Ω.
If required, press the continuity button.
Steps for measuring continuity with a digital multimeter
First insert the black test lead into the COM jack.
Then insert the red lead into the VΩ jack. When finished, remove the leads in reverse order: red first, then black.

With the circuit de-energized, connect the test leads across the component being tested. The position of the test leads is arbitrary. Note that the component may need to be isolated from other components in the circuit.
The digital multimeter (DMM) beeps if a complete path (continuity) is detected. If the circuit is open (the switch is in the OFF position), the DMM will not beep.

When finished, turn the multimeter OFF to preserve battery life.

 

[K80Shooter]

From what I can find on the 2017 RT go to this webpage and look for part #8300 it shows being a micro type switch and harness. BRP part number 710003412 It has to be near the brake pedal, linkage or something that moves if this is correct.

https://www.canampartshouse.com/oemparts/a/cam/57d2c02e87a8660e6845ba66/electrical-system-general

 

[Wmoater]

DUMB! DUMB! DUMB! ENGINEERS! Yes as you read what a DUMB design for the brake light switch housing! First to remove the brake light switch you have to remove the entire side panel which means everything needs to come off to get to the 2 and 3 pin plugs. No big deal it takes 10 minutes to strip down. They zip tied them way to high up. It’s impossible to unsnap from under the bike! After removing the side panels, I got to test both plugs from the top. I guess it was worth it for easy testing. Nothing on both. Hook up meter, push on pedel, no continuity! Check input, 12 volts, must be switch. So that means both the brake light switch and pressure switch are bad? NO WAY! Time to take the switch housing off. What BS. WHY do I have to drop the muffler and pull both lower springs to lower the muffler just to remove the housing? The darn switch bolts hit the pipe on the way out. Without dropping the muffler, the 2 bolts can’t come out. Once muffler dropped and both 15 mm bolts taken out, why would they put a stupid T30 in the middle of the housing for? There’s the smallest amount of room to get to it between the bar that pressurized the brake fluid and the pedal parts. Ok, now the switch is out. WHAT THE HECK! Both openings are all gunked up and I shake it and there’s water swooshing in the switch housing. Really, no drain areas and the housing is riveted together. 4 rivets holding each housing. REALLY WHY RIVETS? Grab the air hose and blast all the crud out. Then misted with water again and blasted out again. Took finger and wiped down and dried with a hair dryer. Pushed on both switches and neither moved. Blasted again and really pushed up and down and it started clicking. Blasted, dried and wiped with cupewtips. Got everything cleaned out and tested.............BOTH FINE! Plugged both switches in and pushed in both switches with fingers...........WALLA BRAKE LIGHTS. Put everything together and all good. Why would the pipe be so close? Why couldn’t the switch only use 2 bolts? Why is the opening to the switches so big? Why is the housing permanently riveted together instead of simple bolt and nut. If I could simply unscrew the housing from the outside you could clean like the parking brake instead of disassembling everything. WHAT A CRAPPY DESIGN! Then again I live on a dirt road, have 5000 miles out west in dusty environments and have now been in 3 storms I probably should have pulled over for. Still terrible design. Now each year I need to find a rubber long tube and blast it out. It took 4 years to fill up. Clean the brake and pressure switches once a year is my suggestion. At least I know how to do it much faster next time.

 

[Wmoater]

No codes, brake lights work! Clean out both the pressure switch and brake light housing. If you don’t hear a click when you push down on the pedal, one of the switches has crud on it!


Last note: BEST WARRANTY would NOT have covered that so that would have been 1.5 hours of straight labor I’m sure! Nothing was broke.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Thanks for posting this Wmoater. My 2020RT with just under 10K miles just starting throwing the same codes (C006C, C0040, VSS error, limp mode). Stopping and restarting the bike clears the codes and the bike is fine again until it happens again. Just starting doing this on my last two 300 mile rides. My friend riding behind me yesterday said the brake lights were doing weird things too - which he never noticed before and we have ridden together a lot.

Before taking it to my local dealer (whom I have little confidence in), I will take a look at the brake switch and see if something is amiss there. The ride before it starting acting up we rode in a lot of heavy rain so I am thinking some water might have gotten into the switch. The cruise control also stopped working during that ride but it now works fine.

 

[Jetfixer]

Thanks for posting this Wmoater. My 2020RT with just under 10K miles just starting throwing the same codes (C006C, C0040, VSS error, limp mode). Stopping and restarting the bike clears the codes and the bike is fine again until it happens again. Just starting doing this on my last two 300 mile rides. My friend riding behind me yesterday said the brake lights were doing weird things too - which he never noticed before and we have ridden together a lot.

Before taking it to my local dealer (whom I have little confidence in), I will take a look at the brake switch and see if something is amiss there. The ride before it starting acting up we rode in a lot of heavy rain so I am thinking some water might have gotten into the switch. The cruise control also stopped working during that ride but it now works fine.

Read my thread here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-be-aware-of-on-2020-RT-s-Brake-switch-issues!