Coolant - is it safe to add water? Do I need to flush the system?

[Jaxfann]

I own a Ryker 600Ace 2019

A week ago I checked and saw that the coolant level was down to about one third full. An auto mechanic advised me that I could add regular water and I put in about 8 fluid ounces.

Is it fine to drive or do I need to have coolant flushed and new coolant added (dealer cost about $250 plus cost of coolant)

Would appreciate advice re this please?

Thanks

 

[delkhouri]

$250 seems excessive. I would just add coolant, unless your mileage warrants a flush per the manual. The coolant cost is $10 a quart from can am.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The adding of just a little water like that is, by itself, not a biggie - you shouldn't need to flush the cooling system & replace the coolant just because of that relatively minor dilution! In fact, if you don't leave your Ryker parked in a below freezing environment too often, you can probably leave it as is!! At most, that little bit of water will have raised the 'freezing temp' of the coolant by maybe as much as 1 degree F, probably somewhat less!! So I'd think that you can safely ignore it for now, and at least until the o/night temps start dropping below freezing every night, if not until the next time your coolant is scheduled for replacement!! You can get little 'test strips' that measure the corrosion inhibition & dilution of your coolant and tell you when the freezing temp of that mix has been raised enough to become a problem, but for most, that's gonna take a couple of years! :thumbup:

BUT, that's not really the concerning issue here!! How low was the coolant when that so called 'auto mechanic' told you to add water?? If your coolant level in the overflow tank is on or above the LOW or COLD level, then you DO NOT need to add anything!! And if you do top it up, then everything you just added will probably only get forced out onto the ground the very next time you ride & your Ryker reaches operating temp anyway!! :gaah:

Those overflow tanks are there to allow your coolant to expand into the overflow tank as the engine/cooling system warms up, then because they're pressure sealed with a one way overflow/outlet, when you shut it down & everything cools down next, the recovery system that is that tank sucks all the coolant forced into the tank back into the radiator, so you don't hafta top the radiator up every time you ride! hyea: But if you fill that overflow tank too much (ie, anything much over that LOW or COLD level) then there's not enough room left in the tank for the expansion when things warm up next time, so the system forces all of the excess coolant/water out via the overflow valve!! Then when you check the level again a few days later, you might THINK you've got a leak or a fault, cos the level is back down near the lower mark again, but that's only because THAT's WHERE IT's MEANT TO BE WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD!!

So if the coolant level in your cooling system overflow/recovery tank is ANYWHERE above the LOW or COLD mark when the system is cold, DO NOT ADD ANYTHING, that is exactly where the coolant level should be when the system is cold/before you start up for the first time every day!! :thumbup:

And if the level is right up to the top when the engine is hot, that's fine too - it's even fine if it overflows a little, or maybe a lot because you filled the tank too high when it was cold! If the coolant level in the overflow/recovery tank is down near the LOW or COLD level when the engine is hot, you might need to add some coolant (or water) when it all cools down next - but BEWARE - it's dangerous to remove the cooling system pressure cap when the system is hot - it's pressurised to raise the boiling point of the coolant, so taking the cap off without approprìate care releases that pressure & can cause all the coolant remaining in the system to instantly boil & blast high velocity steam out of the tank and all over you - usually meaning a hospital visit if not a long hospital stay & extensive skin grafts to replace the scalded tissue!! And you better pray that it doesn't get in your eyes or scald your eyelids off! nojoke

Always check your coolant level while the engine/cooling system is cold, before your ride; and DO NOT OVER-FILL the overflow/recovery tank, that's just a waste of coolant/water and your time & effort! :thumbup:

:cheers:

 

[BajaRon]

Peter is right. You don't give us enough information to know exactly what you did. The coolant expands quite a bit. If you filled to the 'Hot' line when it was cold. You're about to get a bunch of coolant spewed all over. The other problem I would have is that you never want to put anything but distilled water into your cooling system. Tap water has all kinds of bad stuff that will degrade your system over time. A little is OK in a pinch. But should be avoided, if at all possible. Replacing cooling system components will get very expensive in a hurry.

 

[shakin_jake]

Hey Jaxfann:thumbup: reading what the other members had to say, I agree with their observations, especially when Ron cautioned you about using tap water to top up, since it has dissolved solids (minerals) that can and will attach to the alloy parts of the cooling system, primarily the water channels in the motor. So the question then is if the amount of water you added, will it harm the engine cooling channels. Over time it could. To what extent, I’m not sure. If you want to play it totally safe then do a flush and refill with the requisite coolant. On that note, I prefer to use a high quality coolant made for alloy engines and cut it with distilled water in the ratio of 50/50. Why? Because when I flush the cooling systems in my alloy motors, I like to flush using distilled water, until what comes out is totally clear. That way when I can see all that is left is clear distilled water, I then drain that and fill 50% with cooling system capacity coolant, then top off with distilled water and call it done. Of course, that includes releasing any air trapped in the system, assuming there is an air release valve somewhere at the highest point in the system...my Vespa GTS uses a common Schrader valve, to burp the cooling system

I would assume the motor in your 600 Ryker has similar if not an exact, recommendation on when to normally flush and refill the cooling system, the same as the spec for my 900cc Ryker Rally, which my owners manual says to R&R the engine coolant every 30K miles or every 5 years, whichever comes first. If you ride a lot, 30 K miles could be every year. That might seem excessive but, it drives home the point that the quality of your coolant is important as high mileage in a short amount of time will degrade the ph system of the coolant, and rather than advising you to check the coolant ph with test strips, to go ahead and R&R the coolant & be done with it

I mention all this as the alloy diesel motor in my 2010 F-250, the top shelf wrenches (in a diesel forum for Fords), they advise to just do a flush and fill every two years, rather than check the coolant ph using test strips. Good advice because when I tried to check ph in mine using test strips the local Ford dealer had in stock, all of the ph test strips they had were past their prime, according to the date on the packaging. Again, the pros advised just changing the coolant every two years, and of course, there is a preferred coolant to use

I’ll also confess, as busy as I am, I let the local Ford garage do the flush and fill on my F-250 diesel motor (I bought it new from them in 2010), every two years (it’s due about now), but when it comes to my two wheelers that are liquid-cooled (I now have two including my 2020 RykerRally), I’ll do it myself, primarily because #1) it’s really easy #2)I don’t trust the local Can Am dealer to do it #3)as someone in this thread, I think it was you, said the dealer wanted $250 to do it?!? That’s hiway robbery. My Ford dealer only charges $90 (parts & labor) to flush & fill an F-250 cooling system, and they use top of the line Ford coolant. I trust them and they are reasonable <$$$> to boot

Getting back to your situation...you could let it ride for a bit, but if it were mine, and since you didn’t use distilled water, I’d do the flush and fill fairly soon. When I get around to doing mine, I’m going to make sure I have the factory service manual to use for reference. Not to derail your thread by going off topic, I’ve always wanted to ask someone in the know here on this forum, what is the best way to obtain the factory service manual for my 2020 Ryker Rally. I’m under the impression you have to purchase it from BRP, but to do it, you also have to be able to print the copy you buy? IOW, it’s my understanding (perhaps wrongly?) the only way to purchase the factory service manuals is through a download at which time you have to be able to print it? Feel free to text me off list @ 352-216-9072 so as not to derail this thread TIA

 

[MRH]

I had a leak a while back and use water until I got it taken care of. BRP also makes coolant, which is probably the easiest option if you can easily get it.

 

[SportsterDoc]

A week ago I checked and saw that the coolant level was down to about one third full. An auto mechanic advised me that I could add regular water and I put in about 8 fluid ounces.

Suggest that you avoid using that mechanic.
If it was low, when cold, then adding premix coolant is the best option.
Now that only 8 ounces of non-distilled has been added, I do not know if flushing and replacing is necessary/will mitigate mineral introduction.
Are you close to the 30,000 mile recommended replacement interval?

See pages 104 and 105 of your operator manual:

Always use ethylene-glycol
antifreeze containing corrosion
inhibitors specifically for internal
combustion aluminum engines.
To prevent antifreeze deterioration, always
use the same brand and grade.
Never mix different brands or grades
unless cooling system is completely
flushed and refilled.

XPS™RECOMMENDED COOLANT
Extended life pre-mixed coolant
If THE RECOMMENDED XPS
COOLANT IS NOT AVAILABLE
Use a low silicate, extended life
ethylene-glycol premixed coolant
(50%-50%) specifically formulated for
internal combustion aluminum engines.

With the engine cold, check the
coolant level as follows:
1. Park the vehicle on a firm, level surface.
2. Remove the front service cover. Refer
to SERVICE COVER section.
3. Check the coolant level on the right
hand side. Coolant must be visible
slightly above the MIN levelmark.
NOTE: If engine is hot, coolant must
be visible without exceeding the MAX
level mark.
4. If required, add coolant until it is visible
in the reservoir slightly above
theMIN levelmark. Use a funnel to
avoid spillage.
Do not overfill.
5. Reinstall the service cover.

 

[Jaxfann]

Thanks Peter for thorough reply. Excuse my ignorance but when I slide off the hood am I looking at the overflow tank or what is the plastic tank I am looking at?

I checked it today and the level is about the same as it was when I added the water - I noticed a little coolant around the outside upper rim - just a small amount - is this anything to worry about?

 

[Jaxfann]

Thank you sir - Ryker has only 3k miles at this point.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thanks Peter for thorough reply. Excuse my ignorance but when I slide off the hood am I looking at the overflow tank or what is the plastic tank I am looking at?

I checked it today and the level is about the same as it was when I added the water - I noticed a little coolant around the outside upper rim - just a small amount - is this anything to worry about?

That plastic tank is the overflow/reservoir/recovery tank, and it sounds very much like that level is the 'normal' cold level you should be checking for - altho it might be up or down a bit depending upon your local ambient temps. The level is good just so long as it's above the LOW mark on the side of the tank when you check it first thing in the morning before starting the engine! :thumbup:

As for that little bit of 'coolant around the outside upper rim', most likely it is either left over 'spillage' from when it ejected the last of the 'too much' coolant you added before; or it's just a little that's been caught in the seal & come out of the rim of the cap when you took it of to check or add.... a little coolant around the outside upper rim if you take off the cap isn't usually something to worry about - it's generally just that you can see it due to the contrast on the plastic in a way you couldn't ever see it on a black metal radiator filler neck.... generally!

That said, waaay back in the early days of Spyders, some of those early Spyders had tiny cracks develop in their placcy tanks - some around the filler neck, some around the hose entry &/or seams in the base, so it might pay to keep an eye on it?! But that is meant EXACTLY the way sounds - you should ONLY ever keep an EYE on the coolant level! :shocked: You really shouldn't be taking the cap off that overflow tank to check it.... EVER!! The ONLY time you should ever take the cap on that placcy tank (OR the radiator for that matter) is to actually ADD coolant, and if you don't need to do that (and you shouldn't, not unless your Ryker has actually over-heated!) then you only ever check the coolant level using your Mk 1 Manufacturer issued eyeball - with any necesary eye-sight correction &/or the help of a bright light (shining from below/behind if at all possible!!) :lecturef_smilie:

This is because these modern 'recovery type' cooling systems are pressurised, so every time you take the radiator or over-flow tank cap off you are increasing the risk of compromising your cooling system's ability to maintain an appropriate pressure; and therefore increasing the risk of failure! :shocked: This is especially the case with these placcy overflow tanks - they do have a finite life, and the flexing & twisting forces involved in removing/refitting the cap shorten that life from decades to just years or maybe even less!! The overflow/recovery tanks have been included and very carefully designed so that in normal operation you shouldn't EVER need to take the cap off - the only time that should be necessary is if something has gone wrong, but it does allow for the occasional flushing/change of coolant &/or a top up if for whatever reason your engine has run somewhat hotter than usual and so expelled a little too much coolant via the outlet valve. But for normal operation & level checking, the cap/s should ALWAYS stay ON!! :thumbup:

PS: the contaminants in only 8 or even as much as 16 ozs of water &/or its ability to degrate the coolant's anti-corrosion &/or cooling capabilities will not have been great enough to worry about unless the 'water' you added wasn't in the least bit suitable for human or animal consumption - so if it wasn't mud &/or radioactive stuff that you added, then it's almost certainly safe to simply forget about it!

 

[njfishfan]

Thanks Peter for thorough reply. Excuse my ignorance but when I slide off the hood am I looking at the overflow tank or what is the plastic tank I am looking at?

I checked it today and the level is about the same as it was when I added the water - I noticed a little coolant around the outside upper rim - just a small amount - is this anything to worry about?

Jax ,my Ryker from time to time has a little coolant also on upper rim on overflow tank also....if u look right below cap on overflow tank there is a little overflow hole which coolant escapes from ....my dealer pressure checked my coolant system and all is good....they told me don't worry about it, and over year and a half of ownership I only had to put a very small amount to bring it back to full line.

 

[Jaxfann]

That plastic tank is the overflow/reservoir/recovery tank, and it sounds very much like that level is the 'normal' cold level you should be checking for - altho it might be up or down a bit depending upon your local ambient temps. The level is good just so long as it's above the LOW mark on the side of the tank when you check it first thing in the morning before starting the engine! :thumbup:

As for that little bit of 'coolant around the outside upper rim', most likely it is either left over 'spillage' from when it ejected the last of the 'too much' coolant you added before; or it's just a little that's been caught in the seal & come out of the rim of the cap when you took it of to check or add.... a little coolant around the outside upper rim if you take off the cap isn't usually something to worry about - it's generally just that you can see it due to the contrast on the plastic in a way you couldn't ever see it on a black metal radiator filler neck.... generally!

That said, waaay back in the early days of Spyders, some of those early Spyders had tiny cracks develop in their placcy tanks - some around the filler neck, some around the hose entry &/or seams in the base, so it might pay to keep an eye on it?! But that is meant EXACTLY the way sounds - you should ONLY ever keep an EYE on the coolant level! :shocked: You really shouldn't be taking the cap off that overflow tank to check it.... EVER!! The ONLY time you should ever take the cap on that placcy tank (OR the radiator for that matter) is to actually ADD coolant, and if you don't need to do that (and you shouldn't, not unless your Ryker has actually over-heated!) then you only ever check the coolant level using your Mk 1 Manufacturer issued eyeball - with any necesary eye-sight correction &/or the help of a bright light (shining from below/behind if at all possible!!) :lecturef_smilie:

This is because these modern 'recovery type' cooling systems are pressurised, so every time you take the radiator or over-flow tank cap off you are increasing the risk of compromising your cooling system's ability to maintain an appropriate pressure; and therefore increasing the risk of failure! :shocked: This is especially the case with these placcy overflow tanks - they do have a finite life, and the flexing & twisting forces involved in removing/refitting the cap shorten that life from decades to just years or maybe even less!! The overflow/recovery tanks have been included and very carefully designed so that in normal operation you shouldn't EVER need to take the cap off - the only time that should be necessary is if something has gone wrong, but it does allow for the occasional flushing/change of coolant &/or a top up if for whatever reason your engine has run somewhat hotter than usual and so expelled a little too much coolant via the outlet valve. But for normal operation & level checking, the cap/s should ALWAYS stay ON!! :thumbup:

PS: the contaminants in only 8 or even as much as 16 ozs of water &/or its ability to degrate the coolant's anti-corrosion &/or cooling capabilities will not have been great enough to worry about unless the 'water' you added wasn't in the least bit suitable for human or animal consumption - so if it wasn't mud &/or radioactive stuff that you added, then it's almost certainly safe to simply forget about it!

Peter - thank you very much again - you have set my mind at ease.

 

[Jaxfann]

Jax ,my Ryker from time to time has a little coolant also on upper rim on overflow tank also....if u look right below cap on overflow tank there is a little overflow hole which coolant escapes from ....my dealer pressure checked my coolant system and all is good....they told me don't worry about it, and over year and a half of ownership I only had to put a very small amount to bring it back to full line.

Thank you sir - I appreciate your advice.