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HowTo: DIY Laser Align with DIY Tool

OlJim

Member
After reading all the post and watching all the You Tube videos I thought I can do that. My 2011 RT was starting to show some uneven wear on the original tires. I took a steel plate and cut a 4.250 inch circle with a .250 inch hole in the center. I used 4.250 because that was the diameter of the roll of masking tape I had. To this I epoxied 3 each 5 lb. magnets to correspond with the location of the wheel studs. I then made a spacer to space the laser out to clear the wheel spokes and attached the laser with a .250 bolt. To my surprise the thing worked perfect and what a difference it made in the ride and handling in the corners. To center the front wheels I did a cross measurement from the end of the bars to a premeasured location on the passengers back rest. I then placed a level on top of the bars and fine tuned the location. We have a dealer in the area but they charge $250 which I thought was a little steep, also they do not have much experience, hence the price. I know this is probably not perfect but it will do until Squared Away comes to town in October.
 
After reading all the post and watching all the You Tube videos I thought I can do that. My 2011 RT was starting to show some uneven wear on the original tires. I took a steel plate and cut a 4.250 inch circle with a .250 inch hole in the center. I used 4.250 because that was the diameter of the roll of masking tape I had. To this I epoxied 3 each 5 lb. magnets to correspond with the location of the wheel studs. I then made a spacer to space the laser out to clear the wheel spokes and attached the laser with a .250 bolt. To my surprise the thing worked perfect and what a difference it made in the ride and handling in the corners. To center the front wheels I did a cross measurement from the end of the bars to a premeasured location on the passengers back rest. I then placed a level on top of the bars and fine tuned the location. We have a dealer in the area but they charge $250 which I thought was a little steep, also they do not have much experience, hence the price. I know this is probably not perfect but it will do until Squared Away comes to town in October.

You won’t be the first DIY alignment that we have had to unscrew. See you in October.
 
You won’t be the first DIY alignment that we have had to unscrew. See you in October.


Come on Ann give me a break, it may not be perfect but it is definitely better than it was and you will get my money instead of the local guy.
 
The whole idea is to align the front wheels off of the rear wheel. The lasers are simply a very accurate tool with which to accomplish this. Properly done, it is actually a 3 wheel alignment.

If you are using the rear wheel as the basis for your front wheel alignment, then you are on the right track.
 
The whole idea is to align the front wheels off of the rear wheel. The lasers are simply a very accurate tool with which to accomplish this. Properly done, it is actually a 3 wheel alignment.

If you are using the rear wheel as the basis for your front wheel alignment, then you are on the right track.


Yeah you can actually do it with a plumb bob, tape measure, framing square and a chalk line but it is a lot easier with a laser level, especially if your laser is held in place with magnets and can be easily attached and removed. Your finished product is only as good as your tools.
 
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DIY LASER

A friend asked if I would take a look at the alignment on his 2015 Spyder. He stated he was not comfortable riding over 60 because of the unsteady ride. After alignment he took it on some twisties and he said it felt so good he took it on the turnpike and ran it up to 80 and held it there for awhile. Said it just sat there like it was supposed to, no twitch, no bobble, no weave. Says he is going to buy me a lobster dinner for the favor. Makes you feel good when you can help a buddy out.
 
A friend asked if I would take a look at the alignment on his 2015 Spyder. He stated he was not comfortable riding over 60 because of the unsteady ride. After alignment he took it on some twisties and he said it felt so good he took it on the turnpike and ran it up to 80 and held it there for awhile. Said it just sat there like it was supposed to, no twitch, no bobble, no weave. Says he is going to buy me a lobster dinner for the favor. Makes you feel good when you can help a buddy out.

so how about some pics of your process?
 
20 days and no reply with pics
I'm wondering if it is for real?



It's for real, I just have not had an occasion to do another alignment.
Here's a couple shots, first is one of the laser alignment tools, second is tool mounted to wheel using three magnets.

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Thanks OlJim for the idea about the magnets! But I decided to buy enough magnets (at Lowes) so I didn't need a spacer. Then just bought a 6" X 18" piece of sheet steal and cut it in half. I also found a magnetic laser level on Amazon for cheap and bought 2. I found that my tow in was way too much. I had a feeling that was the case because if I leaned to one side, my Spyder would take off in the opposite direction. Anyway, made the adjustments and drives great now. Thanks again for the great idea about how to make our own laser alignment kit!

Magnets.jpg

SheetSteel.jpg

ManetsOnWheel.jpg

LaserLevel.jpg
 
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P.S. If anyone in South Florida wants to have their alignment checked, send me a message. It will only cost you a twelve pack of Miller Lite ))

Certainly less than the $100 I charge, but then again, our equipment to do the task is a lot different.
 
Thanks OlJim for the idea about the magnets! But I decided to buy enough magnets (at Lowes) so I didn't need a spacer. Then just bought a 6" X 18" piece of sheet steal and cut it in half. I also found a magnetic laser level on Amazon for cheap and bought 2. I found that my tow in was way too much. I had a feeling that was the case because if I leaned to one side, my Spyder would take off in the opposite direction. Anyway, made the adjustments and drives great now. Thanks again for the great idea about how to make our own laser alignment kit!

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Did you find that the lug nuts were even all the way around??
 
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where did you all get your specs from for toe in at the distance your target is past the front end?

You may not get a quick response from STSScreamingDemon, as the last time he visited the Forum was about 4.5 months ago... :dontknow:
 
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Sorry for the delayed response. Yes as Peter mentioned, I've been off line for a while, but I'll try to answer your questions now.

Did you find that the lug nuts were even all the way around?? Yes, based on that the distance the sheet metal had all the way around the wheel was consistent. Obviously, a rotor tool might be a better option, but the lugs (if undamaged) are all exactly the same size and torqued to the same tightness.

where did you all get your specs from for toe in at the distance your target is past the front end? Please do your own research on the specs because I got them from someone else and cannot guarantee their accuracy. I don't remember exactly where I found the specs since I read many forums and watched many videos, but I used 2 mm of toe-in at the front wheel which translated to 10 mm at the back wheel since that is roughly 5 times the distance. Anyway, that worked well for me since I can still let go of my handlebars and track straight down the road (on a level surface and new tires of course). A huge improvement from where I started. I was able to confirm my suspicion with the laser that there was too much toe-in originally.

Let me know if I missed anything.
 
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