Drive belt tension and belt alignment

[GeorgiaBill]

My 2014 RTS was laser aligned before delivery, and tracks great. The belt tension is about 180# with the tire off the ground, and the belt is actually snug against the flange.

My objective: 1) move the belt about a credit card width off the flange; 2) reduce the belt tension to about 142# which is the mid point of the revised TST; 3) retain the great tracking with no need for another laser alignment.

So I would 1) turn the left adjuster anti clockwise to reduce tension, and 2) turn the right adjuster clockwise to get some belt/flange separation. Wouldn't doing that cause the wheel to pivot a little clockwise when viewed from the top resulting in constant tire scuffing? I will beat on the back of the tire before any adjustment in case that didn't happen when the tire was changed.

All help appreciated. Thanks.

-Bill

 

[Roadster Renovations]

I like to run mine at about 210 ft lbs. It seems there is less vibration that way. Tension should be checked with it on the ground. Up in the air will not give you an accurate loaded reading. Here is a video of how I do it.

Hope that helps.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

YOUR QUESTIONS

I'm a fan of K.I.S.S. , so I check belt tension wheel on the ground ..... I mean that's where it is 99.999 % of the time right, and I have made the tension adjustment according to that......Sooooooo I'm at 180 lbs ON THE GROUND..........And since you are only going to turn the adjustment screw 1/4 turn .....I would only do the right side ................Good luck, ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[GeorgiaBill]

Thanks, Doc

I has planned to reduce the tension in accordance with the TST recommending a tension of 119.144# to 164.104#, but I guess I might leave it alone for now.

Bill

 

[GeorgiaBill]

Right side adjustment only

Thanks, Mike, I'll try right side only 1/4 turn and leave the left side alone for now. I recall you previously recommended reducing vibration by simply reducing tension.

-Bill

I'm a fan of K.I.S.S. , so I check belt tension wheel on the ground ..... I mean that's where it is 99.999 % of the time right, and I have made the tension adjustment according to that......Sooooooo I'm at 180 lbs ON THE GROUND..........And since you are only going to turn the adjustment screw 1/4 turn .....I would only do the right side ................Good luck, ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[Brian Kay]

https://youtu.be/0_Ewxr7qwqo

Here's another video that discusses the belt alignment and tension adjustments, mate. This is bloody different than the one above, eh.

 

[GeorgiaBill]

Thanks mate

I've watched that one several times, and sent a link to my son. Just got it on URL version of speed dial. Guess that's called a shortcut, eh?

https://youtu.be/0_Ewxr7qwqo

Here's another video that discusses the belt alignment and tension adjustments, mate. This is bloody different than the one above, eh.

 

[Brian Kay]

Bill,
After I got my tire replaced by MMM, the belt is now aligned in the middle of the sprocket, whereas before there was only a few mm separation to the inside. I hate having to second guess these dealers, but I think it's wrong. I may have to also check my tension, because I think there's probably more to this story.

Anyway, I may try and do this adjustment on the ground because I don't have a large wrench. Also subtle turns will allow me to adjust slowly, then ride, then adjust, then ride, etc.

 

[GeorgiaBill]

Brian, I remember looking at your separation a few weeks ago, and it looked great then.

We don't have a 36mm wrench, and we tried a 36mm socket but there's not enough space on the right side for the socket. I went to Home Depot late this afternoon and their largest in store was 32mm, so I ordered a 36mm from Amazon, arriving Wednesday. I also looked at Northern Tools web site, but couldn't locate one there, which surprises me.

We just used large crescent wrenches, but with the torque setting of 155 to 177 lb ft were concerned with rounding the nut. I'll do like Mike said tomorrow, 1/4 turn clockwise and check the separation. I don't plan to tighten the nut until I get the 36mm wrench.

You are welcome to use my wrenches - we have at least 2 large crescents and will have the wrench from Amazon Wednesday.

Bill,
After I got my tire replaced by MMM, the belt is now aligned in the middle of the sprocket, whereas before there was only a few mm separation to the inside. I hate having to second guess these dealers, but I think it's wrong. I may have to also check my tension, because I think there's probably more to this story.

Anyway, I may try and do this adjustment on the ground because I don't have a large wrench. Also subtle turns will allow me to adjust slowly, then ride, then adjust, then ride, etc.

 

[GeorgiaBill]

I got a plan

Early tomorrow morning, I'll do the right adjuster 1/4 clockwise, 1/8 anti for the left and see what that looks like.

Thanks, it's good to know the changes should be negligible.

-Bill

If you want to reduce tension slightly, move the left adjuster anti clockwise 1/8 turn and give it a go. As for the alignment, the change is very minor and should be negligible.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Here is my saga of adjusting tension and tracking, the trouble I had doing it, and the solution. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Problem-amp-Question&highlight=belt+tracking.

As long as the belt tracks without overhanging the outside edge or rubbing the flange, it's good. That's the advice I got from the local Spyder tech. I think the BRP spec for the gap is mostly to assure the belt won't rub the flange under normal conditions, so it's really more like a minimum gap. The instructions in the service manual specify the tracking on both sprockets and are extremely difficult to achieve.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

GeorgiaBill, you must be a transplant to Georgia. When I see the terms "anti-clockwise" and "bloody" used the last place I think of is GA. Are you also a naught and zed kind of guy?

 

[Roadster Renovations]

Brian, I remember looking at your separation a few weeks ago, and it looked great then.

We don't have a 36mm wrench, and we tried a 36mm socket but there's not enough space on the right side for the socket. I went to Home Depot late this afternoon and their largest in store was 32mm, so I ordered a 36mm from Amazon, arriving Wednesday. I also looked at Northern Tools web site, but couldn't locate one there, which surprises me.

We just used large crescent wrenches, but with the torque setting of 155 to 177 lb ft were concerned with rounding the nut. I'll do like Mike said tomorrow, 1/4 turn clockwise and check the separation. I don't plan to tighten the nut until I get the 36mm wrench.

You are welcome to use my wrenches - we have at least 2 large crescents and will have the wrench from Amazon Wednesday.

A trailer ball wrench will also work. That is what I use on the muffler side.

 

[Roadster Renovations]

https://youtu.be/0_Ewxr7qwqo

Here's another video that discusses the belt alignment and tension adjustments, mate. This is bloody different than the one above, eh.

Funny thing is that a couple years ago I tried that method from one of your earlier videos and the belt tracking would always change when I rode it. Only way I have got it stay was doing it on the ground without it running. Love all the videos you have made! Awesome stuff!

 

[GeorgiaBill]

anti and bloody

Ann, I am in fact transplanted to Georgia, from the next state to our west. I took notes on the Australian video that Brian mentioned earlier, and that "bloke" used the word anti. I am a counter clockwise and counter steer person, but looking at my notes, I used anti.

Brian used "bloody" and "eh" as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the Australian video.

Hope to see you someday and get my alignment checked or adjusted.

-Bill

GeorgiaBill, you must be a transplant to Georgia. When I see the terms "anti-clockwise" and "bloody" used the last place I think of is GA. Are you also a naught and zed kind of guy?

 

[GeorgiaBill]

Hey Idaho, thanks. I have read your saga a couple of times and will continue to refer to it.

-Bill

Here is my saga of adjusting tension and tracking, the trouble I had doing it, and the solution. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-Problem-amp-Question&highlight=belt+tracking.

As long as the belt tracks without overhanging the outside edge or rubbing the flange, it's good. That's the advice I got from the local Spyder tech. I think the BRP spec for the gap is mostly to assure the belt won't rub the flange under normal conditions, so it's really more like a minimum gap. The instructions in the service manual specify the tracking on both sprockets and are extremely difficult to achieve.

 

[Old Prof]

TST source?

I has planned to reduce the tension in accordance with the TST recommending a tension of 119.144# to 164.104#, but I guess I might leave it alone for now.

Bill

After having my initial 3000 mile service (2015 RT SE6 LTD) I have noticed greater belt vibration. The guys at the dealership were unaware of any change in recommended belt tension. I'd love to be able to show them the TST with the new numbers. Source? Thanks much!

 

[Brian Kay]

Is this CORRECT?

What do y'all think...to me, the belt is not properly aligned. What should I do, if anything?

First picture is the rear sprocket and position...basically the belt in the center (about two credit cards wide in spacing)
Second picture is the front sprocket and the belt is pushed up against the outside flange.

Not sure if this is allowable or will cause problems, but this all occurred after the dealership replaced my rear tire. Could use some help with the spec sheet or something in writing from Can-Am describing the allowable position and tolerances. I may have to use that to go back to the dealer...Thanks.

 

[GeorgiaBill]

The Belt Tension TST in PDF form

A nice SL sent me a PDF as an email attachment, and I'll send it to you. Just PM me with your email address and I'll get it to you.

-Bill

After having my initial 3000 mile service (2015 RT SE6 LTD) I have noticed greater belt vibration. The guys at the dealership were unaware of any change in recommended belt tension. I'd love to be able to show them the TST with the new numbers. Source? Thanks much!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BELT WALKING

That appears to be within text book specs, not counting tension since we can not see that.

I took extra precaution and established the tracking to avoid hitting the flanges but I am certain as the belt walks, it will contact a flange occasionally.

:agree: ... An SL member ( ? sorry failing memory ) of a video off U-tube , that showed the drive belt when the Spyder was being driven ..........It sure looked like the Belt could and does WALK - ALL THE TIME ............and this Belt was reported as properly tensioned ..................Mike :thumbup: