• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Fault Code Reset

Cambello

New member
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,


That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!

But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
:yes:
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys
 
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,


That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!

But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
:yes:
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys

When you turn off the key for 30 seconds the fault codes will go from active to occurred and will not be visible when you press the key combo. The faults are still visible to the dealer when he plugs it into BUDS. When you turn on the key if the fault is still present the fault code will reappear. So just because you made them disappear does not mean you fixed anything. You need to find the reason for the fault and fix it.
 
There are two types of fault codes.
Active codes and stored codes.
The three fingered BRP salute only retrieves active codes.
There really is no way to clear an active code, it remains visible as long as the condition exists that caused the code to be thrown and the dcm is powered up.
Stored codes are codes that have been thrown but are no longer active and can only be retrieved by BUDS.

You beat me Roger you must type faster than me!!!
 
What you are seeing is a warning icon, not the fault itself. There can be many causes. The active fault codes can be called up on the RT by pressing MODE, SET, and the turn signal cancel simultaneously. The fault codes will be alphanumerically diplayed on the screen when you release the buttons. You can look in a shop manual to interpret the codes, or someone here can tell you what they mean. The dealer can see the occurred fault codes and the fault code history via BUDS. It would be best to give yours a visit, but if you tell us the fault codes we can try to point you toward a reason.
 
lights

Could it have been a light for the oil pressure; that hadn't yet had a chance to get up to full strength?:dontknow:
The lights I'm getting are the same old ones, Engine light, DPS light with orange handlebars, ABS light flashed on, VSS light. these keep on coming on when ever I either go over a bump or apply the brake and run the accelerator, I've cleaned the battery terminals, but the battery is getting on 4 years old so maybe thats the first place to start. I've checked the condition and i'm getting 12v. I've checked the log book and it's had 2 DPS units fitted, which is quite a lot in 4 years if you ask me. I've also had it sending me into Limp Mode.
So I'm really at a loss now.:mad::mad:
 
The lights I'm getting are the same old ones, Engine light, DPS light with orange handlebars, ABS light flashed on, VSS light. these keep on coming on when ever I either go over a bump or apply the brake and run the accelerator, I've cleaned the battery terminals, but the battery is getting on 4 years old so maybe thats the first place to start. I've checked the condition and i'm getting 12v. I've checked the log book and it's had 2 DPS units fitted, which is quite a lot in 4 years if you ask me. I've also had it sending me into Limp Mode.
So I'm really at a loss now.:mad::mad:
Question, how long are you applying the brake while accelerating? The Spyder can tolerate a short duration of trail barking, but it doesn't like having the brake pedal so much as touched while the throttle is engaged. That does result in cascading warnings or limp mode. Try to be very aware. If your foot is nowhere near the brake and it happens, look elsewhere. The dealer can help determine if this is the problem through the fault code history.

What you are describing could also be a low or a bad battery, or more likely loose connections. Also check the rear frame ground on pre-2013 Spyders. If it is loose it is a bear to tighten, but that could cause the issue. So could a loose front frame ground, which is harder to access. Also check the brake fluid level. Usually that just results in a brake failyre warning, but it can trigger VSS and DPS faults.

For the best answers, bring up the actual fault codes using the procedure above. That may help us pinpoint the answer.
 
Last edited:
great forum

Question, how long are you applying the brake while accelerating? The Spyder can tolerate a short duration of trail barking, but it doesn't like having the brake pedal so much as touched while the throttle is engaged. That does result in cascading warnings or limp mode. Try to be very aware. If your foot is nowhere near the brake and it happens, look elsewhere. The dealer can help determine if this is the problem through the fault code history.

What you are describing could also be a low or a bad battery, or more likely loose connections. Also check the rear frame ground on pre-2013 Spyders. If it is loose it is a bear to tighten, but that could cause the issue. So could a loose front frame ground, which is harder to access. Also check the brake fluid level. Usually that just results in a brake failyre warning, but it can trigger VSS and DPS faults.

For the best answers, bring up the actal fault codes using the procedure above. That may help us pinpoint the answer.
What a great forum this is.........just bought myself a new battery, but funny you should mention the brake fluid, ive noticed the peddle being a bit soft, so that could be low level of brake fluid or I am imaging worn brake pads that in turn make the level drop! I was thinking of putting a stronger spring on the brake. I had most of the back panels off last weekend so im getting to know this baby very quickly. Thanks again....
 
I have fault code P0504

What you are seeing is a warning icon, not the fault itself. There can be many causes. The active fault codes can be called up on the RT by pressing MODE, SET, and the turn signal cancel simultaneously. The fault codes will be alphanumerically diplayed on the screen when you release the buttons. You can look in a shop manual to interpret the codes, or someone here can tell you what they mean. The dealer can see the occurred fault codes and the fault code history via BUDS. It would be best to give yours a visit, but if you tell us the fault codes we can try to point you toward a reason.


okay took the bike down to a local shop who does not have buds, I checked all levels of fluids, he did minor adjustment to brake cable but it still showing the error, is there a way to clear the error, or would you advise a trip to a dealership, I have read at times the park brake switch can stick/be faulty
Any help appreciated
 
okay took the bike down to a local shop who does not have buds, I checked all levels of fluids, he did minor adjustment to brake cable but it still showing the error, is there a way to clear the error, or would you advise a trip to a dealership, I have read at times the park brake switch can stick/be faulty
Any help appreciated

It has nothing to do with the parking brake. So you are looking in the wrong place. I will guess you do not have brake lights either. So you have a blown fuse or a defective brake light switch. Whatever the problem is. The fault will clear itself when problem is fixed.

So first thing to do is check if you have brake lights everytime you press the brake pedal.
 
It has nothing to do with the parking brake. So you are looking in the wrong place. I will guess you do not have brake lights either. So you have a blown fuse or a defective brake light switch. Whatever the problem is. The fault will clear itself when problem is fixed.

So first thing to do is check if you have brake lights everytime you press the brake pedal.

All brake lights are working, and fuse looks fine
 
it just seems funny guys that the fault light was on every time I started the machine and the only time it cleared was when I gave the can am salute..oh well back to the drawing board.


To clarify the code will not be present if it is no longer active. If you shut off the Spyder with a code on the screen and turn the bike back on and it is gone, then it is no longer active. If you turn it off and back on and the code is there then you've got issues as in an active code.
 
All brake lights are working, and fuse looks fine

So that means it is a more complicated issue. Before going further I need to know the model and year of your mystery Spyder. I will guess that you have a RT because you are posting in a RT forum. But confirm that. Also list all the modifications and accessories you may have.
 
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,


That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!

But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
:yes:
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys

Well, I wish I had seen this before I gave up and covered her and put her to bed. I will have to try that tomorrow.
 
Well, I wish I had seen this before I gave up and covered her and put her to bed. I will have to try that tomorrow.

That won’t work unless the codes are no longer active. If you are turning the key on and you’re still in Limp Mode pushing the Mode, Set and turn signal buttons will display the active fault code but will not reset them.
 
OK guys, so my RT-s is still alarming at some point at nearly every ride. But to days fault was the engine management light. Could I get rid of this fault light. I switched it off, switched it on, went for a ride, left it for 8 hours and still the light came on,,,,,


That was until I did this,,,,,,,Most of us know that if you press the MODE and the SET button together with the INDICATOR switch pressed in you come to the fault code page,,,,,,YES!!!!

But today I switched the machine off and then switched it on, and at the black CAN-AM screen I Kept the 3 buttons pressed in and the fault codes cleared
:yes:
Now this might have been obvious to the few but it's new to me!
So I went for another ride out and all was ok, so can some one tell me just what did I actually do? and if I did fault code reset is this an approved practice,
Cheers Guys

Did not work for me.
 
Good info but I need some help.
2015 Spyder RT
i just replaced back tire and apparently collapsed brake pads while replacing caliper.
i now have Brake Failure warning and three codes. C006c, C0031 and C0034 along with limp home mode.
Need to ID what these codes mean and a way to clear them. I've purged rear brake line and refilled both reservoirs but no change in warning lights or codes?
Trying not to have to go to dealer.
Please help.
 
Tumbleweed, have you taken the Spyder for a (careful!?) ryde down the street & back? Often those 'brake pad change' caused Limp Modes & Fault Codes can be cleared just by ryding for a few yards. :dontknow: Worth a shot! :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top