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H4 wattage draw OEM vs Slingmods LED's?

staneric

New member
I replaced my factory headlights which are 55 watts hi beam with Slingmods LED'S. They rate their LED'S at 60 watts, but what is the actual wattage draw compared to the oem bulbs?
Thanks.
 
Thanks Dick B, unfortunately my phone did a poor job of capturing that chart and I can't read it.
Was there a watts #?
 
I replaced my factory headlights which are 55 watts hi beam with Slingmods LED'S. They rate their LED'S at 60 watts, but what is the actual wattage draw compared to the oem bulbs?
Thanks.

I hope you’re not going to be disappointed, but that rating isn’t 60 watts EQUIVALENT - like you see at Home Depot - that is 60 watts actual. That’s why they need heat sinks and fans.

However, most often when they are sold as a set like that, manufacturers list the rating you see on the box as total for the set. That’s getting to be pretty standard and what I expect here. It’s assumed that you are installing both bulbs, and tells you the new total power draw. So, typically now you have two, 30 watt LED bulbs replacing two 55 watt bulbs, still saving power but getting a helluva lot more lumens.

Slingmods is reselling the TricLED bulbs. Maybe give them a call or email to check if that wattage is for the set or for each bulb.
 
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60 watts is 5 amps draw at 12 volts.

I do not think LED's draw 5 amps at their advertised wattage output. I see LED lights advertising 10X the "power" or wattage for brighter lighting. Well that has to be BS because that would draw maybe 50 amps of electricity, burning out all the wiring and tearing up the battery and charging system. Lumens come in here and that's another topic but wattage and amperage will still have the same ratio. Watts divided by voltage = amperage.

No idea how it all works with LED light amperage and lumens.
 
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60 watts is 5 amps draw at 12 volts.

I do not think LED's draw 5 amps at their advertised wattage output. I see LED lights advertising 10X the "power" or wattage for brighter lighting. Well that has to be BS because that would draw maybe 50 amps of electricity, burning out all the wiring and tearing up the battery and charging system. Lumens come in here and that's another topic but wattage and amperage will still have the same ratio. Watts divided by voltage = amperage.

No idea how it all works with LED light amperage and lumens.
"These Ryker LED headlights feature 6000k, 60 watt, 7200 lumens xenon white color with an exclusive click angle adjustment for a precision beam pattern."

As they are specifying both lumens and watts, I take the 60W spec as actual power draw, not an equivalent brightness rating. It is unclear if they are specifying 60W each or for the pair. I have asked Tricled for clarification.
 
Here is the response to my inquiry to Tricled:

"That is each but combined with high beam, by itself in lo beams they are not 60 watts. Brightness effectively depends a lot on the housing and how good the reflector is able to reflect that light output out on the road so brightness is only as good as the reflector in the housing which on the Ryker is pretty good. Thanks for your inquiry."

So, high beam same as stock.
 
It looks like a 60 watt H4 LED is going to draw 24-25 watts.
This is the consensus from several lighting geek sources.
 
Just went out to garage and checked with Mr. Fluke, these are the Elite LED HD 360:

PER BULB @ 14.4 VDC idle
HI - 2.4A = 34.56W
LO - 1.3A = 18.72W

HI = 4.8A Total
LO = 2.6A Total
 
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SlingMods states 30W
Screenshot from 2023-01-15 19-12-11.jpg

possible be correct because it does have a boost driver on it I think, at about 19V so that will bring it down to ~30W or so
 
Ordered these on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374379877643


In the ad they talk about the amperage/wattage. It is what Festus commented on. Now do they work?

Will find out in about a week when they arrive. I am speculating they will be rejected by the ECM and flash, turn off or do something unpleasant. At least with the metal base they will fit. The last set I bought had those fans on the back. The also have a thick plastic locking base and just do not fit into the locking ring. Had to grind one down to fit and then found out they are too long to go in unless you take the headlight assembly out. Nuts to that, especially for replacement out on the road .
 
Ordered these on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374379877643


In the ad they talk about the amperage/wattage. It is what Festus commented on. Now do they work?

Will find out in about a week when they arrive. I am speculating they will be rejected by the ECM and flash, turn off or do something unpleasant. At least with the metal base they will fit. The last set I bought had those fans on the back. The also have a thick plastic locking base and just do not fit into the locking ring. Had to grind one down to fit and then found out they are too long to go in unless you take the headlight assembly out. Nuts to that, especially for replacement out on the road .
You should have no issues. The headlights are not wired through the ECM.
 
Yeah, seems like embellishment to me on them specs. If they are true 200W a piece I would be scared to put them in anything short of glass and/or a metal enclosure. And simply looking at it there no way it can dissipate that much current draw and live to tell the story. Perhaps 200W equivalent to halogen be more believable, but just about anything is better than the OEM ones anyways, they are pitiful.
 
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