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Handlebar bolt removal

Clayvis

New member
So my wife bought a cell phone holder for the RT. It came with a new bolt and spacer. To mount it you remove one of the 4 bolts holding the handlebars on. Sound easy right? NOT I tried every tool in my shop to get one of those bolts out-NO DICE. I stopped before I stripped out the bolt head. So, next I tried heat using my soldering iron in the bolt head to melt the lock tite. I left it in there for 10 minutes....still no dice-would not budge. I even tried my 1/2 inch drive electric impact wrench to no avail. I gave in and took it to the dealers shop....$64 later, the bolt was out.
They charged me $55 for half hour labor (it took him all of 5- 10 minutes) plus shop supplies and tax....
He used the biggest air impact wrench they had (obviously way stronger than mine!) The factory uses yellow lock tite on those bolts, but I've never seen such a tight bolt unless it had permanent type lock tite..
Just posting this in case anyone else thinks pulling those bolts is easy...it aint!
 
Yep on those bolts I use a heat gun and then the big boy Milwaukee impact. They usually give up with a very short fight.
 
Gave it your best

Well you gave it your best with what you had. Does seem like overkill but safety you know...Glad you stopped when you did or that bill would have been a lot bigger. :thumbup:
 
Well you gave it your best with what you had. Does seem like overkill but safety you know...Glad you stopped when you did or that bill would have been a lot bigger. :thumbup:

That is so true! I told the tech if the head stripped out to use a different bolt. Glad I only beat it up a little...I have removed automotive flywheels that came off easier! I was afraid to use a heat gun so close to the dash area...or to get a bigger hammer! Brand new machine which is the wife's...so consequences for me if I damaged anything...would mean I never hear the end of it.. Best $64 spent so far! (so now that cell phone holder is worth around $150...but momma is happy.
 
Which model cell phone holder did you get, sounds like a nice present for the wife's Spyder
So far, I removed 4 of thoses bolts with the proper hex 1/2" socket and my 24" bar. You apply torque, the bar start to bend and the bolt give. Just make sure you have the proper size socket, and that it is inserted completely.
 
Like Richard said, the 1/2" DRIVE breaker bar with the right hex socket gives some leverage and it helps have someone holding on to both handles to "Getter done" DSCN2788.jpg
 
Which model cell phone holder did you get, sounds like a nice present for the wife's Spyder
It was a Christmas present that SHE picked out. Not sure where it came from....but it has wires to connect it so it charges the phone...but she said NO to me taking anything apart to install the wiring. But it is a very nice unit. After as much trouble as I had getting the handlebar bolt out, thinking she may be right about a ham fisted HD mechanic working around all that plastic! haha...But believe it or not I did use a 1/2 in drive breaker bar and a 7mm Allen socket. My tools are not "Pro" quality by any stretch, but I have broken full size truck wheel lug nuts loose (150 ft/lbs torque) with no problems. But I swear, that damn bolt would not break that way...I would love to know the actual amount of torque required to break it loose from the yellow glue...
 
10 seconds with my dewalt impact. Did this exact job 3 weeks ago. Done. My customer struggled, then brought it to me. Zip. Done. Put the ram ball on. Zip. Done. All about the right tools.
 
10 seconds with my dewalt impact. Did this exact job 3 weeks ago. Done. My customer struggled, then brought it to me. Zip. Done. Put the ram ball on. Zip. Done. All about the right tools.

I cannot disagree with ya! Someday, I will have better tools, but I will continue muddle on with what I have till I cash out of my current gig...
 

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