-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
help! RT will not shift to neutral
- Thread starter Wmoater
- Start date
:agree: . If it's an RT Ltd, then it's probably an SE6.... and the SE5 & SE6 trans/gearboxes' don't actually NEED to be in Neutral for you to start the engine - they will 'automatically' change to Neutral immediately the engine starts turning after starting (well, not exactly automatically, cos they are still a 'manual gearbox', but the gear shifting is computer controlled/activated anyway! 
) but if the trans is not already in Neutral they just WON'T let you start at all unless you have your foot firmly on the brake & the micro-switch is triggered to tell the ECU that the brake is on! :lecturef_smilie:
One thing to check..... Are your brake lights working?? :dontknow: A blown brake light globe could mean that circuit isn't complete, so the ECU thinks you don't have your foot on the brake! Fix the blown globe; ECU now knows you've got the brakes on; problem solvered!
hyea: Well, that is, IF that's your problem! 
So, all that said, if there's something else going on &/or all else fails, if you get down on the ground & look up your Spyder's tupperware skirts just by/inside your left foot plate, there's a splined shaft sticking out of the side of the 'block' - that's actually the selector shaft for the gearbox, where the manual shift lever would attach if your Spyder was an SM6 (with a manual selector instead of an SE6 with an electronic selector); and if you can get a set of multi-grips or pliers/pump pliers onto that shaft firmly enough to turn it, there's a good chance you can turn it to select neutral that way! Of course, that won't help you start the engine if your brake circuit still isn't telling the ECU when your foot is on the brake, so if that circuit's still not complete, you still won't be able to start!!
But by using/turning the manual selector shaft it should let you select whatever gear you need to - only don't try that while you're actually riding along - apparently, it's bloody unsafe & awful hard using pump pliers to change gears that way while riding?! :gaah:
Anyhow, Good Luck! :thumbup:
) but if the trans is not already in Neutral they just WON'T let you start at all unless you have your foot firmly on the brake & the micro-switch is triggered to tell the ECU that the brake is on! :lecturef_smilie: One thing to check..... Are your brake lights working?? :dontknow: A blown brake light globe could mean that circuit isn't complete, so the ECU thinks you don't have your foot on the brake! Fix the blown globe; ECU now knows you've got the brakes on; problem solvered!
hyea: Well, that is, IF that's your problem! So, all that said, if there's something else going on &/or all else fails, if you get down on the ground & look up your Spyder's tupperware skirts just by/inside your left foot plate, there's a splined shaft sticking out of the side of the 'block' - that's actually the selector shaft for the gearbox, where the manual shift lever would attach if your Spyder was an SM6 (with a manual selector instead of an SE6 with an electronic selector); and if you can get a set of multi-grips or pliers/pump pliers onto that shaft firmly enough to turn it, there's a good chance you can turn it to select neutral that way! Of course, that won't help you start the engine if your brake circuit still isn't telling the ECU when your foot is on the brake, so if that circuit's still not complete, you still won't be able to start!!
But by using/turning the manual selector shaft it should let you select whatever gear you need to - only don't try that while you're actually riding along - apparently, it's bloody unsafe & awful hard using pump pliers to change gears that way while riding?! :gaah:Anyhow, Good Luck! :thumbup:
Last edited:
Wmoater
Active member
Got it. I pushed on brake nothing. I pushed the shut off and on and nothing. I pulled the 40 amp main and shut shut off button. Then Tried to restart so it was dead with kill switch on. Then plugged in 40 and flipped on kill switch switch and held start button with foot on brake. It shifted. FEW it got it! For some reason it was locked in reverse yes SE6. Got it thanks! It was actually in neutral the entire time even though it had R. When I released the parking brake it rolled free but still had the R.
Yeah... not quite!! The SE Trans/Gearboxes are constant mesh gearboxes (ie always engaged to engine) and for the SE6's, they have a clutch that works on oil pressure (SE5's have centrifugal clutches that need revs - 3,200+ rpm) So in your case, without any oil pressure due to the engine running, the clutch wasn't connecting the gearbox output to the drive pulley. So your Spyder WAS actually in Reverse, but because the engine wasn't running, whenever you disengage the parking brake it'd roll around due to the clutch not being pressurised & locking the engine/trans up to the drive pulley! :thumbup:
Not quite the same as most motor vehicles, auto or manual.
Given what's just happened, it could just be that you've got a bit of a dirty micro-switch (you did look up your Spyder's skirts, didn't you?? ) A bit of a spray with contact cleaner into & around the brake pedal switch should fix that, but it might also be the switch warning you of impending failure.... :dontknow:
OR, it could be that the return spring on the brake pedal has become a bit tired, so now it never quite returns far enough to shut the brakes off - ryde like that for a little with your brake lights on all the time & the Nanny will jump in & probably dump you into 'Limp Home' mode cos the brakes are 'on' all the time!! There are a number of threads about this problem & how to fix it, but IIRC, most simply add an extra 'helper' spring... I think I have a pic of the spring & its details somewhere in the archives, but it might take a while to find.... anyone else help with that?? Info &/or pic??
Over to you! :thumbup:
) A bit of a spray with contact cleaner into & around the brake pedal switch should fix that, but it might also be the switch warning you of impending failure.... :dontknow:OR, it could be that the return spring on the brake pedal has become a bit tired, so now it never quite returns far enough to shut the brakes off - ryde like that for a little with your brake lights on all the time & the Nanny will jump in & probably dump you into 'Limp Home' mode cos the brakes are 'on' all the time!! There are a number of threads about this problem & how to fix it, but IIRC, most simply add an extra 'helper' spring... I think I have a pic of the spring & its details somewhere in the archives, but it might take a while to find.... anyone else help with that?? Info &/or pic??
Over to you! :thumbup:
Wmoater
Active member
Thanks Peter. I just got back to the toy hauler at the campground. The 'white' reverse lights were on the whole ride from the restaurant to the campground. We did have to ride in a heck of a rain storm 2 hours ago. It dumped on us. Dumb electrical gremlins. I got back no codes etc. It ran fine and no limp modes. I pulled behind the toy hauler and had to back up before I went into the toy hauler garage. Guess what when I shifted from reverse to forward the reverse lights went out. My wife is NOT happy right now with me or Bella ( Spyder name). I will play with it in the morning. Hopefully your right, something is gummed up from the rain storm or something got wet. The relays were dry when I pulled the main to reset everything.
I think I might've been barking up the wrong tree there for a bit... I was sure your post said 'brake lights'....:dontknow: But whatever, if your REVERSE lights have gone off now, I think whatever stuff up caused them to stay on has probably cleared, and with any luck, you won't see a repeat! :thumbup:
Ride Safe, & Stay Healthy! :cheers:
Ride Safe, & Stay Healthy! :cheers:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I read all the other suggestions ..... I had the same issue right after I bought my new 2014 RT ..... I was driving home from the dealer in Illinois, ( to Vermont ) .... and it stalled in gear .... nothing I tried would get it to start ..... and the Battery sounded weak .... I got a jump from a passing stranger ., and it started quickly .... Since that time, I always put the trans. in neutral Before I shut it off .... Try it it might work ..... Mike :thumbup:
stmike 1800
Member
There is a switch on the left side down under the bike ,it hangs down so easy to see .You may of bumped it some how and knocked it out of adjustment .
Wmoater
Active member
Dumb electrical gremlins. I started it this morning, Backed it down the ramp, Put in park and everything seems fine. Reverse lights turned off when I put in drive. Started in Neutral. Its like nothing ever happened. Putting the bike in neutral before turning off is a good idea. I will try to remember that and create a new habit. Thanks for all your help. My wife seems happy this morning. PLEASE PLEASE BELLA behave or this is going to be a long trip for you and me ray:
Just checked oil level and its perfect so shift away!
ray:Just checked oil level and its perfect so shift away!
Trbayth
Active member
Not to derail the thread Wmoater but when you say "Just checked oil level and its perfect" what do you mean by that? Did you check after a long-ish (say, 20 minute) ride and use the procedure in your owners manual or did you check it with the engine cold? If the engine was cold, it's impossible to determine whether the level is "perfect" or not.
Wmoater
Active member
Good question trbayth. Yes I only allowed it to run for 10 minutes sitting idle which is not totally accurate. You are correct. Not a good practice to check when sitting and running but I wanted to make sure I didn't loose anything. The level was the same sitting at idle as when I checked it after 2 hours and 120 miles later. I haven't checked it since. I just got home. 939 miles later and "NO" problems after the episode. I think it was a water problem. To coincidental it happened after the huge rain storm we rode in. Thanks everyone for your quick response comments and recommendations. I am glad I had internet service. Almost everywhere where we were there was no cell. This site is great for general and in emergency situations.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Keep your eye on things. The backup lights are powered directly from the cluster. There is no switch in the circuit so the cluster is depending on the gear position sensor to let it know if it's in reverse or not. This might be an indication the GPS is having problems, or may have gotten wet. Do a search on gear position sensor. From what I read on here replacing it is a relatively simple job. I've never had to do it.Dumb electrical gremlins. I started it this morning, Backed it down the ramp, Put in park and everything seems fine. Reverse lights turned off when I put in drive. Started in Neutral. Its like nothing ever happened. Putting the bike in neutral before turning off is a good idea. I will try to remember that and create a new habit. Thanks for all your help. My wife seems happy this morning. PLEASE PLEASE BELLA behave or this is going to be a long trip for you and me
Similar threads
