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How can you tell a stator is going bad? Hard to replace?
- Thread starter TONYO
- Start date
Usually, you can tell your magneto/stator's going bad when your battery stops getting charged; you can't start your Spyder; &/or all the electrical components start running erratically or not at all.... So it's pretty much the same signs & symptoms as a dead or dying battery, except if you get your multi-meter out & do series of the basic checks you can with one of them, the voltage won't come up much at all, let alone a heap once the engine starts running. :banghead:
For the V-Twin Spyders, ie, all the Spyders with Stator/Magneto type battery charging systems rather than the alternators found on the 1330 motor Spyders, here's those checks & voltages, with the multi-meter probes connected to the correct terminals on your battery, check the following - the battery voltage should be:
12.6 volts or higher - before you turn the ignition on after an o/night stop;
12.0 volts or higher - after you turn the ignition on but before trying to start;
11.5 volts or higher - during the cranking phase of the starter motor, altho Spyders are very power hungry so I look for about 12 volts even during cranking;
12.8 volts or higher - during idling just after starting; and
13.6 volts or higher - when running at over about 3000 rpm
The last 2 of those are the voltages most likely to be down if you've caught a dead/dying magneto before it's killed the battery too, but the annoying thing about all this is that:
1. A dead/dying magneto will kill a battery quicker than anything else short of dropping a dirty great spanner across both terminals & leaving it there while you watch the pretty sparks & the subsequent small explosion that'll scatter acid & metal all over the place (so DON'T DO IT! EVER!!); and
2. voltages not making those sorta levels at any time coud well mean it's just your battery that's on the way out, so you really need to get that properly load tested to confirm, or at least do that load testing before just assuming it's the stator & ripping into replacing that! :lecturef_smilie:
Stator replacing - IIRC, it's not a massive job, IF you can get the part; & IF that's the only thing worn in there... :dontknow:
Over to you! :cheers:
For the V-Twin Spyders, ie, all the Spyders with Stator/Magneto type battery charging systems rather than the alternators found on the 1330 motor Spyders, here's those checks & voltages, with the multi-meter probes connected to the correct terminals on your battery, check the following - the battery voltage should be:
12.6 volts or higher - before you turn the ignition on after an o/night stop;
12.0 volts or higher - after you turn the ignition on but before trying to start;
11.5 volts or higher - during the cranking phase of the starter motor, altho Spyders are very power hungry so I look for about 12 volts even during cranking;
12.8 volts or higher - during idling just after starting; and
13.6 volts or higher - when running at over about 3000 rpm
The last 2 of those are the voltages most likely to be down if you've caught a dead/dying magneto before it's killed the battery too, but the annoying thing about all this is that:
1. A dead/dying magneto will kill a battery quicker than anything else short of dropping a dirty great spanner across both terminals & leaving it there while you watch the pretty sparks & the subsequent small explosion that'll scatter acid & metal all over the place (so DON'T DO IT! EVER!!); and
2. voltages not making those sorta levels at any time coud well mean it's just your battery that's on the way out, so you really need to get that properly load tested to confirm, or at least do that load testing before just assuming it's the stator & ripping into replacing that! :lecturef_smilie:
Stator replacing - IIRC, it's not a massive job, IF you can get the part; & IF that's the only thing worn in there... :dontknow:
Over to you! :cheers:
OK....Just tested it n it is fine. When I crank it....The screen goes blue n then I have to push the mode button again to get the screen back up. SO...Yesterday I stopped in to the local advance parts store n they tested the battery. Said it was good but my alternator was goin bad. SO....Thats how I got here. NOW....Why is it doin the blue screen thing? It runs great n always cranks. THANKS FOR THE INPUT/EDUCATION.
Can you tell us what voltage showed at each of those stages I mentioned earlier?? :dontknow:
Still, it sounds very much like that's it's all telling you your battery is (sorta?? Maybe??) good still, but is most likely beginning to suffer, possibly cos it seems the Magneto isn't working properly at low revs!! The guy telling you your alternator is going bad clearly doesn't know that YOUR Spyder doesn't even HAVE an Alternator, it's got a Magneto & they put out less charging power than an alternator & in a different 'format' - and once they start going bad, there's no stopping it!! :shocked:
The Blue screen thing is most likely cos the battery isn't powerful enough to run all the computer bits while you're cranking - the magneto is meant to start providing some power to help as soon as the engine starts turning over - in fact, the battery on magneto powered bikes is only meant to power the starter & the Magneto should provide all the power for running everything & re-charging the battery! But obviously if your battery isn't quite up to par &/or your Magneto isn't providing enough power soon enough, the battery will get drained by the starter & the dash drops out so you hafta start all over again with the Mode thing to get the computers back up & running!! The battery WILL be being hammered to death by this 'no charge at low revs/start-up' thing; it'll probably never be quite getting up close to full charge as a result - unless maybe you only ever ryde for a couple of hours at 4,000 rpm or higher?? Anything less than that, ie, a shorter time &/or lower revs & your battery will be the only thing keeping the engine & the computers running, which will be draining it fairly quickly & making the next start even harder! :shocked:
So it does sound like it's time for you to properly load test the battery & maybe do that Stator job you asked about initially! Shouldn't be too hard tho, once you get the parts. Good Luck! :cheers:
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The numbers were just like you posted first. Over 14 at 4000 rpms. I keep it on a tender all the time n the battery is aprox. one year old. SO...I am very sure its charging. It cranked fine yesterday n did not do the blue screen thing. SO.....LOL Ima drive on n see what happens.I love this machine. BUT It will keep ya on your toes for sure! Thanks for the info/advice.
The REALLY IMPORTANT voltages out of those I listed are those YOU GET immediately before cranking; during cranking; and after cranking, cos if they're not high enough or they drop too low during the 'start up' cycle, then the computers won't work & you'll get that 'blank screen of death'!! :shocked: So to really be able to add anything more definitive, we need to see the voltage you got at each of those stages... :dontknow:
However, if you've only been giving it short runs, or runs of anything up to or less than about 30 mins or so with revs dropping to anything much less than about 4000 rpm for more than a few seconds during that time, then it could still be that the magneto's getting tired & won't provide enough power at low revs; and maybe the battery was just getting down a bit in its resting charge & then being hidden by the battery tender.... Besides, leaving your Spyder cconnected to a 'battery tender' all the time except when ryding isn't good for the battery's longevity, cos unless it's a true multi-stage battery charger &/or a battery maintainer/conditioner, then it might show that the battery looks alright but it could be just a light surface charge with no real depth or Ooomph in it to provide the heavy duty cranking amps plus all the amps of green steam required for all the electronics!! And battery tenders can hide a dead or dying battery for some weeks like that, possibly even taking on a good charge & even maintaining it for a week or two! Showing ogg thr parapyts.. If you're not going to ryde it for saaay a week or two, and/or it'll only be doing shortish, low rev rydes, then OK, use the tender.... but if you are ryding it every week for at least 30 mins of hwy revs - 4000 & above, the leave it off the tender until the second weekend of no ryding comes around!
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
:agree: with Peter ...... IMHO the V-twin and 1330 charging systems are way different ( Magneto vs. Alternator ) ..... I always have my Lithium battery jumper at all times ( for 1330 eng. ) I have not used it yet for me but have helped others. The largest strain on the elec. system is when starting, unless you Battery " shorts out " and fails. You should be able to jump it and then decide if you need a battery because it's either OLD and weak or the Magneto is failing for some reason...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
Thanks for your educational info! OK....Like I sad b/4...All the numbers you posted in the first response were what I got. Only different number was it was 14.1 at aprox. 4000 rpm. SO...It was just right by your numbers. My tender is the newest tec. I got the best one made. AND...They did test the battery under load at advance. They could not find the can am on their teter....SO They used a honda with a 1000 cc engine setting. I am very aware that their reading coulda been wrong. I tested it myself with a simple meter. I always carry a lithium jumper with me. Im thinkin I might have a loose connection somewhere or a rely issue? Its done that blue screen thing off n on for years. Only reason I had it tested was because it was doin it every time I started it. Time will tell....I got the stator in my cart at ebay just in case. TY VERY MUCH Dude You are educational for sure!
Loose connections are certainly a possibility, I had what felt like a DPS (Power Steering) failure that was resolved by fixing tightening the ground lug on the frame inside the steering tunnel behind the frunk on my 2013 - so no DPS issue, just a poor/loose earth lug that was moving during steering & disrupting power to the DPS! :sour:
When you're looking for loose connections, you might want to take out the screws holding the dash in, & drop the dash towards the rider so you can check the connections on the back - there's been a few of the pre-2014 RT's with poorly seated loom plugs back there; only difference from your issue being that generally, once they appear, they just get worse until the Spyder stops working entirely! :shocked: . Might be worth a look! :thumbup:
Over to you! :cheers:
Update
OK.....I been ridein bout everday n it always cranks but with the blue screen.(short 20 mile trips) Yesterday I took a 100 mile ride. Stopped at aprox. 35 miles for a break n it cranked with the blue screen. Went aprox. 35 miles more n stopped for a break. This time it did NOT crank! LOL O MY.......It acted like the battery was dead. SO....I broke out my trusty little jump starter n it cranked right up without the blue screen. Rode it the aprox. 30 miles back home....Just left it runnin n checked the battery.It was showin 13.8 at idle....Went to 14.2 at 4000 rpms. OK...Shut it down n waited a few mins. hit the start button n it cranked perfectly without the blue screen etc! SO.....HUM???? Whats goin on with my machine? Did it fix itself on that 30 mile ride back home? I have a stator in my ebay cart.Aprox. 65 bucks shipped. I got no problem replacein it.BUT I dont want to if its not bad. TY For the input. Tony
OK.....I been ridein bout everday n it always cranks but with the blue screen.(short 20 mile trips) Yesterday I took a 100 mile ride. Stopped at aprox. 35 miles for a break n it cranked with the blue screen. Went aprox. 35 miles more n stopped for a break. This time it did NOT crank! LOL O MY.......It acted like the battery was dead. SO....I broke out my trusty little jump starter n it cranked right up without the blue screen. Rode it the aprox. 30 miles back home....Just left it runnin n checked the battery.It was showin 13.8 at idle....Went to 14.2 at 4000 rpms. OK...Shut it down n waited a few mins. hit the start button n it cranked perfectly without the blue screen etc! SO.....HUM???? Whats goin on with my machine? Did it fix itself on that 30 mile ride back home? I have a stator in my ebay cart.Aprox. 65 bucks shipped. I got no problem replacein it.BUT I dont want to if its not bad. TY For the input. Tony
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Hey Tonyo. Your voltage readings indicate that your stator is OK. The machine behaved normally when you used the jump starter pack. Everything you are describing in this thread points to the battery. Only being one year old doesn't matter. Your riding style is short trips. That's OK. What kind of battery tender are you using? Sounds like you're using a battery tender when you need to be using a batter charger, to recharge your battery after these short trips. They do not perform the same function. So, get yourself a modern, automatic battery charger with an AGM setting that has a 2 amp charging rate setting. One that will automatically shift into maintaining / de-sulfation mode when it's done charging. Use that instead of your battery tender to recharge and maintain your battery. I also question how and if a proper activation charge was done on your battery when it was replaced last year. With you having a good, automatic charger, you might be able to save your battery from a pre-mature failure. And make sure those battery terminal connections have been cleaned and tightened.
Woodaddict
Active member
i had a battery tender. found out was blinking wrong color, saying that it was not charging. got one now that does AGM, now it charges properly
OK..... I been ridin bout everday n it always cranks but with the blue screen (short 20 mile trips). Yesterday I took a 100 mile ride. Stopped at aprox. 35 miles for a break n it cranked with the blue screen. Went aprox. 35 miles more n stopped for a break. This time it did NOT crank! LOL O MY....... It acted like the battery was dead. SO.... I broke out my trusty little jump starter n it cranked right up without the blue screen. Rode it the aprox. 30 miles back home.... Just left it runnin n checked the battery. It was showin 13.8 at idle.... Went to 14.2 at 4000 rpms. OK... Shut it down n waited a few mins. Hit the start button n it cranked perfectly without the blue screen etc! SO.....HUM???? What's goin on with my machine? Did it fix itself on that 30 mile ride back home? I have a stator in my ebay cart. Approx. 65 bucks shipped. I got no problem replacin it. BUT I don't want to if it's not bad. TY For the input. Tony
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I would put a voltmeter on the spyder (permanent or temporary) and go riding. This will let you know if your charging system is failing letting the battery run down. If during the ride you don't see any issue with the charging voltage i suspect you have a bad battery or bad connection to the battery.
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https://www.amazon.com/Linkstyle-Vo...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
TONYO, the reality is, you've either got a bad earth/s somewhere; you've got a bad (dead or dying) battery; or you've got a bad (dead or dying) charging system! There's not really much else besides a few - very few other maaaayyyyybeee remotely possible options that this could be, but those few are not only remote but also usually things that either work or they don't, & that means your Spyder would either be running or wouldn't! And yet it clearly does, at least some of the time..... So it REALLY looks like it's gonna be one of those first three :banghead: Sure, you could fit a volt meter and watch it closely, but who's to say it'll be sensitive enough to be helpful, & besides, you only might get some better insight into which of those three it is; but really, it's clearly most likely going to be one of them, so why not cut straight to the chase & start eliminating those possibilities?!? :dontknow:
Personally, because of the frequent short trips & regular use of a battery tender, at this stage I'd punt on it being the battery & either fitting a 'known good' & fully charged battery that's NOT your current battery; or buying a brand new ' spec or better than spec' battery, then charging it for at least 8 hours on a proper multi-stage charger yourself, so that YOU KNOW it's been properly charged before installation; and then seeing what happens! A new & fully charged battery may well resolve the issue, but if it doesn't you'll then KNOW it's not the battery and have a better chance of fixing it as time progresses! :thumbup: Or, if you prefer, you could do the stator thing, or the strip it all & check every earth on the Spyder first; but given the latest info you've provided I reckon they're the lesser likely options of those first three above, and they're both harder to do properly... so
Still, it's your choice.... :dontknow:
Altho I 'spose you could go on having this problem occur every now & then until it either stops of its own accord; or you could just let it run as is until the bike will no longer start/run, probably when you're far away from home &/or at the least convenient time possible, but at least you'll then most likely be able to work out which of those three it was & get it fixed... possibly at premium prices cos it's now urgent that you get it sorted; or you could let it run as is until it damages/destroys something waaayy more expensive that stops the bike completely..... :sour : Regardless of whether it's one of those three or not, from where we are sitting & probably from where most troubleshooters would be sitting, from here on in it's likely going to be a process of elimination that relies on these options being fixed & excluded in turn until either something changes that clearly identifies the problem, or the problem is finally fixed.... but it's time to DO something, or you'll never know when it will hit next, or if you'll be able to start your Spyder the next time you try to...... :gaah:
Personally, because of the frequent short trips & regular use of a battery tender, at this stage I'd punt on it being the battery & either fitting a 'known good' & fully charged battery that's NOT your current battery; or buying a brand new ' spec or better than spec' battery, then charging it for at least 8 hours on a proper multi-stage charger yourself, so that YOU KNOW it's been properly charged before installation; and then seeing what happens! A new & fully charged battery may well resolve the issue, but if it doesn't you'll then KNOW it's not the battery and have a better chance of fixing it as time progresses! :thumbup: Or, if you prefer, you could do the stator thing, or the strip it all & check every earth on the Spyder first; but given the latest info you've provided I reckon they're the lesser likely options of those first three above, and they're both harder to do properly... so
Still, it's your choice.... :dontknow: Altho I 'spose you could go on having this problem occur every now & then until it either stops of its own accord; or you could just let it run as is until the bike will no longer start/run, probably when you're far away from home &/or at the least convenient time possible, but at least you'll then most likely be able to work out which of those three it was & get it fixed... possibly at premium prices cos it's now urgent that you get it sorted; or you could let it run as is until it damages/destroys something waaayy more expensive that stops the bike completely..... :sour : Regardless of whether it's one of those three or not, from where we are sitting & probably from where most troubleshooters would be sitting, from here on in it's likely going to be a process of elimination that relies on these options being fixed & excluded in turn until either something changes that clearly identifies the problem, or the problem is finally fixed.... but it's time to DO something, or you'll never know when it will hit next, or if you'll be able to start your Spyder the next time you try to...... :gaah:
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OK..... Back to my first post here. The advance auto guys tested it while in the bike n said that the battery was great n that the alternator is goin bad. I knew n told them it had a stator. They said well its goin bad. SO..................... Today I finally found out that they were WRONG on both parts! You guys were correct. It was simply the battery. The stator is workin great. TY ALL So much for the input/info!
I am gonna put a compliment in here about the battery. I bought it on amazon. It has 410 CCA. And a three year free replacement warranty for aprox. 90 bucks. It is 11 months old. SO.... I contacted em thu amazon to see IF they would stand behind that warranty. WELL........... YES! All I have to do is take it to an auto parts place n get em to test it n print out the info. Take pictures of it all with the battery number etc. n send it to em n they will send me another one >>>>>>> FREE! Now.....Thats a dang great honest deal huh. Thanks again for the help n educating me. Tony
I am gonna put a compliment in here about the battery. I bought it on amazon. It has 410 CCA. And a three year free replacement warranty for aprox. 90 bucks. It is 11 months old. SO.... I contacted em thu amazon to see IF they would stand behind that warranty. WELL........... YES! All I have to do is take it to an auto parts place n get em to test it n print out the info. Take pictures of it all with the battery number etc. n send it to em n they will send me another one >>>>>>> FREE! Now.....Thats a dang great honest deal huh. Thanks again for the help n educating me. Tony
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