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Installed New Power Commander V with Auto Tune and O2 Optimizer

bluestratos

New member
Got her done but it took two days as I also installed a wide angle A/F gauge with sensor and a water temp/volt meter in the dash. I had to take the muffler in to get the bungs welded up so that ate a couple hours. I guess from here the auto tune does its thing so I just need to button the bike back up after my new radar detector shows up.

The instructions they sent were incorrect as there are now 2 additional harness connections that connect to timing and ignition, neither of which were shown. I eventually found theme on the web but that cost me 2 hours of searching.

The wide gauge O2 gauge is great, very steady and easy to read and it matches the look of the water/volt meter although the volt part of that gauge is a bit strange, even thought there are lot of bar around the perimeter it is basically: green is good, yellow below 12.5 (as I programed it) and red would be close to a no start condition.

Once I get it all back together I will report back what changes I notice. If there is anyone out there that has a good handle on programing the power commander I would like to pick you brain :-)
 

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Great..!!

staying busy...now for a break in the climate to go out and give it a spin...:popcorn: For the review..!! :thumbup:
 
you know it! Snowing today but it is getting warmer! I was out when the temp was 25 and kept nice and warm with my gear :-)
 
Got her done but it took two days as I also installed a wide angle A/F gauge with sensor and a water temp/volt meter in the dash. I had to take the muffler in to get the bungs welded up so that ate a couple hours. I guess from here the auto tune does its thing so I just need to button the bike back up after my new radar detector shows up.

The instructions they sent were incorrect as there are now 2 additional harness connections that connect to timing and ignition, neither of which were shown. I eventually found theme on the web but that cost me 2 hours of searching.

The wide gauge O2 gauge is great, very steady and easy to read and it matches the look of the water/volt meter although the volt part of that gauge is a bit strange, even thought there are lot of bar around the perimeter it is basically: green is good, yellow below 12.5 (as I programed it) and red would be close to a no start condition.

Once I get it all back together I will report back what changes I notice. If there is anyone out there that has a good handle on programing the power commander I would like to pick you brain :-)

bluestratos,

I am thinking of going this route; since you have installed your set up, I have some questions:

1. Can you list the items you had to order to complete the installation? I know you had to get the PC-5 and autotune. Was there anything else, like bungs, etc?
2. Did you reuse your OEM O-2 sensor(s)? I cannot recall if we have a dual O-2 sensor set up; do we?
3. Does the PC-5 require wide band O-2 sensors?
4. Where are the pics...

Jerry
 
Everything you need comes with the PCV and the Auto tune including the optimizer, wide band O2 sensor and the bungs. From there it is plug and play except for one grey wire that taps into the MAP sensor. You do not take out the existing O2 sensors (we have two) just add the bung for the auto tune. I added two because I also added a separate Air/fuel gauge (wide band as well and it too came with its own bung and sensor).

Other than the picture I posted I could not see any other pics that would help as it is just a mass of wire connectors and the online instructions show the install in detail. The video does not include the extra connectors for ignition so be sure to read the online instructions.

bluestratos,

I am thinking of going this route; since you have installed your set up, I have some questions:

1. Can you list the items you had to order to complete the installation? I know you had to get the PC-5 and autotune. Was there anything else, like bungs, etc?
2. Did you reuse your OEM O-2 sensor(s)? I cannot recall if we have a dual O-2 sensor set up; do we?
3. Does the PC-5 require wide band O-2 sensors?
4. Where are the pics...

Jerry
 
THanks bluestratos,

3 more questions:

1. Why did you swap?
2. did you notice an increase in MPG (did you tune it this way)?
3. Did you notice better power/delivery (did you tune it this way)?

Jerry
 
As you might know I changed my original filter media to K&M, then install the Ackapavice muffler from BRP. My gas mileage suddenly went down but I blamed my riding style. After taking a long ride and getting hot foot again I decided to take drastic stepsto control the heat. I started with wrapping the pipes and swapping the cat for a Y pipe as people reported less heat. I then insulated all the panels and body and built a fan can to sent the heat away from my left foot. I blocked off both side outlets on the right side but decided I should also do away with the stock air filter as it blocked a lot of air. Heat is gone but I a hot day to get an honest evalualtion.

I was now breathing so freely I was concerned about lean runs so I bought a narrow band Air/fuel gauge and pulled the plugs and discovered the opposite was true, plugs were showing a rich burn and the gauge agreed. I then bough a low cost fuel control that allowed limited range of adjustment.

Well long story short I seen how the bike improved for a shot while but after a ride it was the same as before. The ECM was making adjustments to override the fuel controller. I was hooked at the point so I went all out and bought the PCV with auto tune, and a good wide band gauge so I can really see what is going on. I dropped a quick grand there including the water/volt gauge to match the AF guage, lol.

I have to take it for a long ride to really let the system do its thing so I cannot answer question 2, no road time yet but question 3 is a yes, I am already seeing more power on a quick run just using the basic tuning set up for 2 brothers exhaust and green filter. The Auto tune will continue to tune for the best power so this may not produce the ultimate gas mileage. At some point I will work with the manufacturer to better understand how to modify the map manually.

THanks bluestratos,

3 more questions:

1. Why did you swap?
2. did you notice an increase in MPG (did you tune it this way)?
3. Did you notice better power/delivery (did you tune it this way)?

Jerry
 
I recently bought the PCV with the AutoTune (dual channel) for my 2013 RT-S and I am in the process of reading the installation instructions and laying things out. I am unclear about step #7 for the AutoTune installation instructions. It reads as follows:

"Connect the RED wire of the AutoTune to a switched 12v source using the supplied posi-tap. The power for the tail light is a good location."

Did you end up using the tail light wire for the power source? If so can you let me know where the wire is and what color? It says that the PCV install guide will give you this information, but I did not see it. Thanks.
 
Well, after much gnashing of teeth, 4 different trouble codes, orange screen and running like crap I am going to take out the free flowing air filter and the Powercommander and Autotune set up. While everyone else has had no or little trouble with it, my bike continuous with being a problem and I just plain give up. So, if any one wants a hell of deal on the set up give me a call, I has less than 200 miles on it. I may even pull out the A/F meter and temp/volt meter gauge since it is a match to the A/F meter.
 
Well, after much gnashing of teeth, 4 different trouble codes, orange screen and running like crap I am going to take out the free flowing air filter and the Powercommander and Autotune set up. While everyone else has had no or little trouble with it, my bike continuous with being a problem and I just plain give up. So, if any one wants a hell of deal on the set up give me a call, I has less than 200 miles on it. I may even pull out the A/F meter and temp/volt meter gauge since it is a match to the A/F meter.

That is really a shame. You're the 1st one I've heard that has had insurmountable issues with this setup. From what I hear, the PCV w/Autotune is pretty much a Plug&Play after you get past the alterations needed. Have you tried calling the PC people? I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the system itself.
 
Have you tried running without the pc5 and seeing what your AFR is letting the stock ecu handle things?
We've found that the stock ecu does a pretty decent job handling a pipe and filter with no ad-ons. Even with the ad-ons we are seeing stock AFR numbers. This is on 3 2012' and prior RS/GS's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well, after much gnashing of teeth, 4 different trouble codes, orange screen and running like crap I am going to take out the free flowing air filter and the Powercommander and Autotune set up. While everyone else has had no or little trouble with it, my bike continuous with being a problem and I just plain give up. So, if any one wants a hell of deal on the set up give me a call, I has less than 200 miles on it. I may even pull out the A/F meter and temp/volt meter gauge since it is a match to the A/F meter.

Before you throw in the towel, have you checked / tried the following:


  1. Have you verified the posi-tap connection to the TPS connector is on Pin #2? The installation directions call out the "YEL/WHT" wire, but it is actually the "BG/WH" wire. At my first glance, I thought they were talking about hooking it to the "BG/YE" wire which is Pin #3. After closer inspection, I see that they had a typo.
  2. Have you loaded the default map using the provided software?
  3. Have you enabled the AutoTune using the provided software?
  4. I know you said you are getting power from your custom fuse panel. This adds another layer to your problem. Have you tried getting power from the taillight wire as they recommend?
  5. If all of the previous items have been verified, have you tried running it with just the PCV and leave the AutoTune out of the picture for now?

I have prior experience with the PCV and it is a great product. I'm sure that this problem can be sorted out.
 
Thanks Stewart,

Before you throw in the towel, have you checked / tried the following:


  1. Have you verified the posi-tap connection to the TPS connector is on Pin #2? The installation directions call out the "YEL/WHT" wire, but it is actually the "BG/WH" wire. At my first glance, I thought they were talking about hooking it to the "BG/YE" wire which is Pin #3. After closer inspection, I see that they had a typo.
  2. Have you loaded the default map using the provided software?
  3. Have you enabled the AutoTune using the provided software?
  4. I know you said you are getting power from your custom fuse panel. This adds another layer to your problem. Have you tried getting power from the taillight wire as they recommend?
  5. If all of the previous items have been verified, have you tried running it with just the PCV and leave the AutoTune out of the picture for now?

I have prior experience with the PCV and it is a great product. I'm sure that this problem can be sorted out.

  1. I spotted the typo as well, I hooked it to wire shown in the picture which I believe was the second one from the right.
  2. Yes
  3. Yes
  4. Yes
  5. Yes
I have called been on the phone with the techs many times and they keep pointing me to the Optimizer. But the more I move the sliders toward rich the worse the bike runs. Before I installed the PCV I ran with the new set up for about 3 weeks (no cat, performance air-filter and muffler) and it was popping a very small amount in the muffler now and then on de-acceleration and in fact it went completely away but I had ordered the PCV by that time.

With out the PCV my bike was actually running rich by A/F meter, mostly in the closed loop area. I have confirmed the auto tune is working as it is making changes to the trims each time I take it out.

One thing I may do take out the Optimizer since it stands alone and only affects the closed loop portion of the map which is where I am sure the problem lies but I am sick of worrying about the next orange screen.
 
Thanks Stewart,



  1. I spotted the typo as well, I hooked it to wire shown in the picture which I believe was the second one from the right.
  2. Yes
  3. Yes
  4. Yes
  5. Yes
I have called been on the phone with the techs many times and they keep pointing me to the Optimizer. But the more I move the sliders toward rich the worse the bike runs. Before I installed the PCV I ran with the new set up for about 3 weeks (no cat, performance air-filter and muffler) and it was popping a very small amount in the muffler now and then on de-acceleration and in fact it went completely away but I had ordered the PCV by that time.

With out the PCV my bike was actually running rich by A/F meter, mostly in the closed loop area. I have confirmed the auto tune is working as it is making changes to the trims each time I take it out.

One thing I may do take out the Optimizer since it stands alone and only affects the closed loop portion of the map which is where I am sure the problem lies but I am sick of worrying about the next orange screen.

One last thought, are you running the AutoTune AT-200 or AT-300? I'm running the AT-300 and when I configured the PCV to use AutoTune, it defaulted to one O2 sensor. I had to manually change it to two - which was not clearly documented.
 
One thing I may do take out the Optimizer since it stands alone and only affects the closed loop portion of the map which is where I am sure the problem lies but I am sick of worrying about the next orange screen.

Have you had a chance to try this yet? If things run good, I imagine DynoJet would get you a replacement.
 
No, I am a working stiff so can't try it until the weekend. To be honest I am not going to fart with it, just want to get the back to the way it was. I am planning to buy a new 14 limited and I don't want to sell another person my problems, lol... Prior to the PCV the bike was finally running great for the past year.

Have you had a chance to try this yet? If things run good, I imagine DynoJet would get you a replacement.
 
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