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Is there a Jack that will raise the Spyder up 24 Inches
- Thread starter JimboRTS
- Start date
Snoking1127
Well-known member
I got mine all ready to slide out and a friend came by with his ramps. Old out and new in, and back on the block to hook it up and reinstall the tupperware.
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WilcoJunoHotel
New member
Pit Bull makes one but I don't know if they are still in business - I just tried to go to their website and it is no longer working.
http://pitbullmotorcyclelifts.com/ is the correct link but it no longer goes to the company website.
I think they are about $500-600 plus shipping.
I used a combination of drive up ramps and a regular floor jack to get mine up high enough to get the old one out and the new one in.
I like Snoking's method best.
http://pitbullmotorcyclelifts.com/ is the correct link but it no longer goes to the company website.
I think they are about $500-600 plus shipping.
I used a combination of drive up ramps and a regular floor jack to get mine up high enough to get the old one out and the new one in.
I like Snoking's method best.
I've never seen a PitBull jack/stand for the Spyder, but they are still selling excellent gear: https://www.pit-bull.com/.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
If you have something like a pallet raise the bike as high as you can, put blocks, like concrete blocks, under all three wheels, and remove the jack. Then place the jack onto a pallet and slide it under and finish jacking the bike up. That's what I did. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ifting-my-RT&p=1336041&viewfull=1#post1336041. The ramp idea is probably about the best approach to get the height and keep the bike secure.
You'll only need it that high for maybe 30 seconds to 1 minute or so - all the necessary work besides the actual 'slide old bar out, slide new bar in' bit can be done with it much lower! :thumbup:
Snoking1127
Well-known member
What P^^^^ A^^^^ said! And I did it without removing the belly tupperware.
This helped for the bolts that hold the bar into the Spyder frame.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQV97VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this for the top link bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CKQXQ6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
trikermutha
New member
Floor jack and jack stands. Take your time and be carefull.
WilcoJunoHotel
New member
Bangorbob
Active member
Jim, You can use that jack by putting a 4X4 on it. I did that and put jack stands under just in case. You will only need it up for probably 2 minutes. Be careful.
https://www.harborfreight.com/300-l...MI35S6q6Px7gIV0MDACh1xIASDEAQYAyABEgJNpPD_BwE
Will a Lawnmower lift work on spyder ones that lift the front 2 tires. they arenrated for 750#
this lift says 300# but they have one for 750#
Will a Lawnmower lift work on spyder ones that lift the front 2 tires. they arenrated for 750#
this lift says 300# but they have one for 750#
Snoking1127
Well-known member
I am not sure it goes wide enough for the Spyder front tire width? And all 4 are listed at 300 lbs. And with only one rear wheel the Spyder would be very tippy lifting it with that lawnmower lift.
These ramps would be better. https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-...-in-steel-loading-ramps-set-of-two-60397.html
K80Shooter
New member
From what I can tell that jack use's the rear shock bracket for lifting, I was under the impression that was a no no. :dontknow:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
There is apparent conflicting information in the service manual. Some procedures call for lifting under the rear shock absorber, and some say do not. My interpretation is DO NOT lift using the bottom end of the shock absorber. You could bend the shock mounting bolt. But you CAN lift if the jack spans the entire shock mounting bracket and does not put a load on the shock absorber. That is specifically mentioned in one procedure. If you think about it it's obvious the bracket has to be stout enough to support the weight of the bike that is above the swing arm. When you add in safety factor and the shock from tire movement that is transmitted through the bracket it has to be pretty stout.
Also, IIRC, the section that says it is a no-no deals with adjusting the belt tension or something of the sort where the swing arm needs to be free to move.
The conflict in the manual, IMO, arises from the fact that it is undoubtedly written by several tech writers and design engineers who have not coordinated 100% on all the various sections of the manual.
K80Shooter
New member
Having been in the repair field for most of my career I totally agree about the conflicting data and obviously being written by several techs.
I also believe all engineers should be a mechanic for a period of time before being able to design things so they have a true understanding how things are in the real world.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I don't know if it's the case still, or not, but in years past engineers in Japan had to work the assembly line for a few years before moving to the design offices! And then there is the story I was told about a new combine being designed at John Deere. The company put together a team of engineers, factory workers, farmers, dealers, and I don't know who all. The person telling me about it said the air sure turned blue when the team started to assemble the prototype based on their just completed design!
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