Is this Belt alignment on brand new Spyder OK?

[captcharles]

I haven't ridden more than 10 miles on my 22 RTL. Waiting for my hip replacement to heal.

Going through the manual I saw there was supposed to be a 1-3 mm gap between the belt and the flange.

There is no gap between the flange on the rear sprocket. The service manager at the "dealer" told me that the Spyder isn't broken in yet and doesn't need alignment. I said "you mean it's going to move over" and he said yes.

What say y'all?

I don't think I believe him.

Thanks.

 

[Knizar]

I believe you are smarter than your dealer gives you credit for. Ask the Tech not the Dealer. When I purchased mine back in 2020 I had my Tech adjust the drive belt at 3000 miles as it started getting too close to the sprocket.
Keep an eye on it! :thumbup: Bill

 

[captcharles]

It was the service manager at the dealership that told me that.

 

[Realtor]

My 2015 belt barley touches the rear sprocket flange. It's been like that for 13K, no wear, even changed he rear tire a while back. Belt rides in the same exact place. unless your belt showed wear on the inside, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[EdMat]

How did you check it. The belt walks a bit side to side depending on turning and especially backing up. I prefer to check it after going forward in a straight line on a level surface coming to a rolling stop.

 

[Knizar]

It was the service manager at the dealership that told me that.

OOOP's . "Sorry", missed that ! They are suppose to know what their doing. My .02 cents says it will eventually need to be adjusted, Bill

 

[captcharles]

Inspected after a straight line.

 

[Realtor]

heres a pic of mine. It's been in the same spot since I've owned it. This is just after I replaced the rear tire.. every once in a while I feel the inside edge to see if I can feel it wearing, so far nothing, the edge is as sharp as it always have been..

 

[Knizar]

Inspected after a straight line.

I'm a believer in the 2mm (credit card) gap.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I don't necessarily think the dealer is right in suggesting it'll 'move over' or sort itself all on its own accord if it's really miss-aligned excessively; but really, unless the belt is being forced HARD up against the flange &/or riding up onto it/being over-heated/burnt by running waaayy too tightly against the flange, then there's probably not all that much to worry about! :lecturef_smilie:

Your belt doesn't really care where it is on the rear sprocket, just so long as the rear wheel is aligned to aim you fairly straight down the road and the belt runs ON the sprocket teeth and it isn't being damaged by running part way off the teeth or too hard up against or even on the flange; similarly, the belt really doesn't want to run too hard against either side of the front sprocket or up on either flange up that end either; but the 1-3 mm thing is simply to give you an idea of how well the rear wheel is aligned and some target to aim for when setting the belt properly!

However, the belt will move around on the rear sprocket somewhat as you ride forwards/turn, etc; and it'll move around even more as you reverse; so exactly where it is at any given moment is a bit of a moot point and someone ensuring it's aligned perfectly at any given 'non-riding' moment is pretty much bit of a waste of time & effort too, cos as soon as you start moving/riding again the belt'll be wandering around on the sprocket, at least a little anyway... :banghead:

So don't stress too much just yet - when you can safely do so, ride it a bit, then check the belt's position. Ride it some more, then check the belt's position again. It'll likely be in a little different position each time, so do that ride & check thing to make sure that the belt's still somewhere on the sprocket teeth & not part way off or riding up on the flange, then continue on or adjust as necessary. Do that every now & then for a while (only once you've worked out how to ensure it's a safe/good exercise for your hip tho! ) until you are either convinced that your belt truly does need to be re-aligned, or you are comfortable that it's just moving around a bit as just about everyone else who's actually taken the time to look/watch their belt like this has discovered, cos these belts really do wander! And if it's wandering a little or even a lottle, but not running off the sprocket, causing any belt burning, or scoring the belt/teeth, then you don't really need to worry about it. :thumbup:

And if that's the case, you just hafta learn to......


Ride More, Worry Less! hyea:

 

[Woodenfish]

I believe what your Service Manager told you to be the truth. The belt hasn’t settled in yet and will need many more miles before it will.

 

[Navydad]

It was the service manager at the dealership that told me that.

Why do folks listen to a service manager? Most are just that service MANAGERS. They make appointments and take your money. Most have no clue what goes on in the shop nor do they have much knowledge of the product. My nephew was a service manager at an auto dealership and he doesn't know a steering wheel from a pinwheel. He makes appointments and tries to sell you crap you don't need from a list the dealership hands him. Talk to the guy with the grease on his hands that actually works on the vehicles.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I don't necessarily think the dealer is right in suggesting it'll 'move over' or sort itself all on its own accord if it's really miss-aligned excessively; but really, unless the belt is being forced HARD up against the flange &/or riding up onto it/being over-heated/burnt by running waaayy too tightly against the flange, then there's probably not all that much to worry about! :lecturef_smilie:

Your belt doesn't really care where it is on the rear sprocket, just so long as the rear wheel is aligned to aim you fairly straight down the road and the belt runs ON the sprocket teeth and it isn't being damaged by running part way off the teeth or too hard up against or even on the flange; similarly, the belt really doesn't want to run too hard against either side of the front sprocket or up on either flange up that end either; but the 1-3 mm thing is simply to give you an idea of how well the rear wheel is aligned and some target to aim for when setting the belt properly!

However, the belt will move around on the rear sprocket somewhat as you ride forwards/turn, etc; and it'll move around even more as you reverse; so exactly where it is at any given moment is a bit of a moot point and someone ensuring it's aligned perfectly at any given 'non-riding' moment is pretty much bit of a waste of time & effort too, cos as soon as you start moving/riding again the belt'll be wandering around on the sprocket, at least a little anyway... :banghead:

So don't stress too much just yet - when you can safely do so, ride it a bit, then check the belt's position. Ride it some more, then check the belt's position again. It'll likely be in a little different position each time, so do that ride & check thing to make sure that the belt's still somewhere on the sprocket teeth & not part way off or riding up on the flange, then continue on or adjust as necessary. Do that every now & then for a while (only once you've worked out how to ensure it's a safe/good exercise for your hip tho! ) until you are either convinced that your belt truly does need to be re-aligned, or you are comfortable that it's just moving around a bit as just about everyone else who's actually taken the time to look/watch their belt like this has discovered, cos these belts really do wander! And if it's wandering a little or even a lottle, but not running off the sprocket, causing any belt burning, or scoring the belt/teeth, then you don't really need to worry about it. :thumbup:

And if that's the case, you just hafta learn to......


Ride More, Worry Less! hyea:

:agree: with Peter and let me add I've seen a " U-tube " a Spyder owner made that showed the drive moves side to side almost constantly as you drive the Spyder ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

I think the dealership just doesn't want to mess with it. If they can get you to drive away, then one less thing to worry about.

The belt isn't going to move unless something is wrong or an adjustment is made. I think, in the past, they expected the motor mounts to 'seat in' which does change belt alignment. But BRP improved motor mounts on the Spyder long ago and there really isn't any change in motor orientation these days.

Always check belt alignment after moving forward at least several feet. Where the belt rides in reverse has no bearing on belt alignment.

You may be OK with the belt just barely touching the inner flange on the rear pulley. But how do you know if it is just barely touching? It will ride the same barely touching as it will riding hard. You will be able to tell when the belt shows wear on the inside. Seems like a faulty check method to me.

The dealer needs to properly align the belt. The engineers do not give random clearance specs just to fill up the owners manual. While I don't necessarily agree with everything BRP recommends. This is one that should be adhered to. If nothing else than to reduces the drag encountered when the belt is rubbing up against the flange.

You paid for a New Machine properly set up and ready to go. That is what they should deliver.

 

[Realtor]

Was in the barn this morning, I looked, both the spyders, the '15 and '18 belts are in the exact same place. Like the picture I shared above. I try and not mess with anything that isn't broken.