magneto charging voltage

[MMcc]

I keep hearing people saying that the spyder magneto does not charge at low RPM's and you must run above 5000 RPM to charge the battery. I questioned this so I did some tests on my 2011 RT-S with 6000 miles on the clock. The results are as follows.

Conditions voltage reading
Ignition off, spyder has been sitting for the past 5 days. 12.28 volts
Ignition on, ready to start 12.11 volts
Spyder started, Idle 1400-1500 RPM 14.14 volts
1st gear 2200 RPM 13. 23 volts
2nd gear 3200 RPM 13.54 volts
3rd gear 3000 RPM 13.88 volts
4th gear 4200 RPM 14.07 volts
5th gear 5100 RPM 14.24 volts
Engine at operating temp idle 1350-1400 13.89 volts
Bike shut off after ride 12.32 volts

From my experience anything over 13.2 volts will provide some charge to the battery. The reason for this test is that with the 55 MPH speed limit on the local roads and few freeways around here I do most of my riding in the 4500 RPM range. Most of the time in 4th but if the road is level I will shift to 5th. I have never had to use a battery tender on any of my bikes except in the spring to charge the battery after a long winter of sitting disconnected from the bike. My observations.

 

[boborgera]

Are you sure about the 12.32, Usually anything under 12.7 indicates a weak or bad battery. :dontknow:

 

[Jeriatric]

Battery Tender

Removed from batt tender(fully charged) and went to town to refuel the spyder, plus a stop at the hardware store. Around 35 miles, with 30 miles of it at or over 55 MPH - coming and going. Trip involved 3 starts. When I parked the spyder and plugged the batt tender in it took several hours(over 24) before the tender said the batt was recharged. FWIW

 

[MMcc]

Are you sure about the 12.32, Usually anything under 12.7 indicates a weak or bad battery. :dontknow:

You are correct, since each cell is 2.1 volts a 12 volt battery has 6 cells so the total voltage should be 12.6 volts. My battery may be getting old or not in the best shape. It starts the spyder without any problems. Just listing my observations, of course my cheap (harbor freight) digital volt meter might also be off some. The idea was to show that low RPM still produce a voltage over minimum to charge. I don't have a digital amp meter to measure the current so I can't report that.

 

[docdoru]

On the RT you have a bigger magneto compared with the RS. Still, need to keep the RPM's up.

 

[spyryder]

Don't forget you're getting those voltage readings with two 60W headlights on as well.

 

[MMcc]

voltage measurement

I connected two jumper wires to the terminals under the seat. Getting to both battery terminals and making a good connection with the jumpers was more work than I wanted. I put banana plugs on the end of the jumpers and plugged them directly into the digital VOM. Held that on my lap as I rode the spyder. Tried to hold the RPM steady while I then read the meter. I did this over about a 10 mile ride with lots of stopping to record the numbers. Thus I presented an average value as there was always some variation as I assumed that the battery was being charged somewhat during this time.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

HEADLIGHTS

Don't forget you're getting those voltage readings with two 60W headlights on as well.

I have been considering putting a switch in for the headlights so I can turn them off because of the power they use......They would be replaced by some type of LED day time running lights, just for legal purposes....the type of switch used could be that which would put one on and the other off.................Any thoughts on this???

 

[spyryder]

I have been considering putting a switch in for the headlights so I can turn them off because of the power they use......They would be replaced by some type of LED day time running lights, just for legal purposes....the type of switch used could be that which would put one on and the other off.................Any thoughts on this???

You could likely switch it at the headlight relay but I think it may generate a code with the lights off. :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

I have been considering putting a switch in for the headlights so I can turn them off because of the power they use......They would be replaced by some type of LED day time running lights, just for legal purposes....the type of switch used could be that which would put one on and the other off.................Any thoughts on this???

Why? Are you having charging problems? Do you have a bunch of heated gear hooked up? Big stereo amp? The Spyder system is not really inadequate for most usage. Yes, it only puts out about half it's trated capacity at 4,000 rpm, but you should be above that anyway for decent performance. Yes, you might have to switch off your heated gear when idling in town, but that can happen with almost any motorcycle except a Goldwing. I can switch off the headlights on my BMW, but I have no desire to do so. You need all the visibility you can get out there. Switch off something else! JMHO

 

[gypsy_100]

I keep hearing people saying that the spyder magneto does not charge at low RPM's and you must run above 5000 RPM to charge the battery....

The factory spec is 13.0 - 14.0 V at 4,000 rpm with headlights on high-beam, heated grips on high setting, no other accessories turned on.

I checked while running in neutral, voltmeter direct across the battery. I had 12.6-12.9 at rest, and then a consistent 13.8 to 14.0 V from idle on up. Very constant. I turned on fog lights, heated grips, plugged in two heated vests and the voltage still never dropped below 13.8 V at 3,000 rpm. I conclude from that test that there is plenty of power to run reasonable accessories at any rpm you'd normally be using on the road. Even at idle my voltage barely dropped with all the stuff turned on. If I got stuck in traffic I'd probably cut the vests back as a margin of safety but when you're not moving thru the wind you tend to do that anyway. I got stuck for over an hour one time on the interstate with crawling traffic due to an accident. Then I cut the fog lights as all I was doing was crawling behind the car in front of me. Other than that, I agree with Scotty -- you can't have too many lights.

 

[jerpinoy]

I have been considering putting a switch in for the headlights so I can turn them off because of the power they use......They would be replaced by some type of LED day time running lights, just for legal purposes....the type of switch used could be that which would put one on and the other off.................Any thoughts on this???

Use a marine rocker sw use on yacths and boats and they are waterproof.

 

[Bob Denman]

I want to hear about more about Sparks' theory on using a flux capacitor....

 

[Jeriatric]

Use a battery maintainer.

:thumbup:

 

[gypsy_100]

A battery is actually a really complicated thing to model.
The amount of current stuffed back in is a result of the internal resistance of the battery which is a function of the voltage across the terminal voltage.

So a dynamic battery system is not a simple thing.

But I would use caution of the number of electrical loads you put on the system.
But unless you want to run your toaster oven and the tanning bed you'll probably be okay.
Use a battery maintainer.

All I'm saying is with the voltages I'm measuring, from idle on up, the system is charging the battery as opposed to discharging it. I'm not saying it's a fast charge or a slow charge but it's charging. Since I spend a lot of time around 4-5K rpm, not idle or 3K rpm, the fact that it's charging even at idle and 3K rpm tells me at my normal speeds I'm just fine. I understand the DPS is a big power draw but that's not a constant draw. I now have a Clearwater voltage sentry installed and it never goes below the "slow flash" which is 13.2 - 14.6 V measured across the battery, even when cornering and the DPS is working. So I feel the same as Scotty, for any "reasonable" electrical load we'd put on these bikes, there's plenty of electrical capacity. I think from your next-to-last statement, you also feel that way.

As for a battery maintainer, I do that regularly but mainly to take care of parasitic loads drawn while the bike is not being used.

 

[billybovine]

battery maintainer

I am not against people using a battery maintainer for their toys when they sit for long periods of time. If your :spyder2: can't sit for month without the battery going dead then you have a problem that needs fixing properly, not an excuse to use a battery maintainer. Last winter I put my :spyder2: in storage for 3 1/2 months. I made a mistake and forgot to disconnect the battery. It fired right up without a hint of a problem.

 

[gypsy_100]

I am not against people using a battery maintainer for their toys when they sit for long periods of time. If your :spyder2: can't sit for month without the battery going dead then you have a problem that needs fixing properly, not an excuse to use a battery maintainer. Last winter I put my :spyder2: in storage for 3 1/2 months. I made a mistake and forgot to disconnect the battery. It fired right up without a hint of a problem.

I agree completely. When I say "regularly", I meant if it's sitting for more than a couple weeks without being used. The draw from all the Spyder's equipment when "off" is pretty low, as you suggest. As long as your radio isn't suffering from the water intrusion problem. People should be aware of any drains from equipment they've added that is not truly "off" but just "sleeping". My Clearwater voltage indicator is an example but its non-use draw is a couple micro amps, not a problem. But, I contacted Gorilla about my alarm and was surprised to be told the constant draw is 8 milli-amps (mA). Only 2 less than when it's armed. That's significant. If I remember correctly, the RT battery is 18 amp-hours so an 8 mA drain could deplete the battery by 15% in just two weeks, assuming it's fully charged to start with and that you could ever use 100% of the battery capacity, which you can't. I plan to measure the alarm drain next time I have the panels off and can get to the fuse. Sounds like a lot of drain to me. Also want to measure the radio drain just to be sure -- mine was replaced and the antenna connection sealed but I'd like to see what it is.

 

[FrankPa]

I Agree...

Why? Are you having charging problems? Do you have a bunch of heated gear hooked up? Big stereo amp? The Spyder system is not really inadequate for most usage. Yes, it only puts out about half it's trated capacity at 4,000 rpm, but you should be above that anyway for decent performance. Yes, you might have to switch off your heated gear when idling in town, but that can happen with almost any motorcycle except a Goldwing. I can switch off the headlights on my BMW, but I have no desire to do so. You need all the visibility you can get out there. Switch off something else! JMHO

Daytime, I ride with Reggie's bright tip lights, fog lights on and high beams... and folks STILL pull out in fron of a Viper Red RT-S! :banghead::banghead:

 

[boborgera]

Daytime, I ride with Reggie's bright tip lights, fog lights on and high beams... and folks STILL pull out in fron of a Viper Red RT-S! :banghead::banghead:

I have a Dodge pickup, Red over size tires and i always have the headlights on , And guess what people still
pull out in front of me. That's the way it is, It bothers you and me because when your out in the open it becomes up close and personal they cut off Fire tucks can't have more lights than that. Every one is in a hurry and have their heads up their axx.