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Need to know Jacking points using a floor jack?
- Thread starter fuelie60
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I'll assume that your Floor jack will slide under the front .... if not put the front tires on 1 1/2 pieces of wood ..... Then put the arm under the center of the Spyder and make sure it's positioned Directly under the MAIN frame it runs from front to rear ( until it gets to the rear swing arm ) ..... Raising the front needs a bit more care, it will be balanced, but before you work on anything put JACK stands ( or similar ) under the front suspension arms. What you want to do to to the Spyder will determine how high it needs to be ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
Briorick
Member
Great Question, fuelie60!
I, too, have always wondered about using my low boy hydraulic jack to raise the entire front, without damage. PERFECT! Thanks, Mike!
Rick
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
OK , if you REMOVE that bolt .... the shock can't provide support on that side .... the Spyder might TIP OVER .... the spyder doesn't balance well from just the rear wheel. Use TIE straps to on the ends of the handlebars, to prevent tipping over....... Mike :thumbup:
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
:chat: Be Safe when you raise your Spyder. Depending on what you need to do, be sure to use jackstands.
Not sure what you are talking about.
I just raise one wheel at a time.
Using a low floor jack.
Sometimes a service manual is a good starting point.
Not sure what you are talking about.
I just raise one wheel at a time.
Using a low floor jack.
Sometimes a service manual is a good starting point.
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You only need to raise one wheel at a time about 1/4 inch off the floor to change the bottom shock bolt. It WILL NOT TIP- OVER! .....:thumbup:....Bill
WDAVEY
New member
Be careful if using a floor jack under the front center of the spyder. I had mine quite high trying to get jack stands under the a-arms when the jack started to squirt out from under the spyder! Apparently the rubber pad on my jack could not prevent the weight of the machine from pushing the jack out. I agree with others above, jack one side at a time only high enough to get the weight off the wheel.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
a " tie wrap " ..... I should have said a a " rachet strap " ...... Mike :thumbup:
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
Just Jack up one wheel at a time.
Make sure that your Jack will handle the Spyder.
A one-ton Jack is going to lift it up... :thumbup:
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K80Shooter
New member
I slide my floor jack in from the side. If I'm lifting the front then I will place it at the front of the center frame and lift from there, I do the opposite if I'm lifting the rear. I never lift the entire bike at one time.
Peteoz
Well-known member
Just out of interest, K80, do you find when you jack up the front (using either a centre post lift or a floor jack with rails, that the RT tends to be very precarious? I.e. it leans to one side and could tip? I always use jack stands as well, but I am wary of lifting the RT too high when lifting the jack stands to the next hole. Is it just me ?
I realise this has been touched on above, but I was interested in your experience with a ‘20+ RT, as I never had it with the F3-L.
Pete
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Babyblue
New member
My husband passed this past February, so I am on my own as far as working on my F3-T. I read the posts, but I am a little confused. I want to check the drive belt for possible damage. The city laid down tar gravel and I couldn't get around it. I drove real slow, but it was fresh and rocks were flying every where. I just want to raise the rear a bit to be able to spin the rear tire. I have a floor jack, I just am still not sure about placement. Or would it be better if I just put the CanAm in neutral and roll it a bit at a time? I apologize if I have posted this in the wrong spot. Thank you for any advice.
Lori
Lori
Tango
Well-known member
Just had this done by "Spyderpops" at the 3 Wheel Rally. What a great idea. Made hooking up the ratchets much easier. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
Isopedella
Well-known member
I slid the jack so it lifted on the rearmost end of the box section. I also chocked both front wheels prior to lifting.
cravenfun
Member
By the look of your picture if the driveway is flat just rolling it with the brake off may be the easiest way for you to look at the belt instead of jacking the rear.
End of the center ''frame'' by the rear tire would be the point to jack the rear tire up.
FlyingBoat
New member
It seems nobody ever explains where the jack point is to raise one wheel at a time.
The responses always seem to be use the frame down the middle or jack one wheel at a time.
Where is the jack point to raise one wheel at a time? I want to raise it up and then put a jack stand under.
Woodaddict
Active member
Not sure if this question was discussed earlier in this thread, but I don't have time to look. So just place a piece of wood under the tubes on an A arm and jack up. It will have to be a skinny jack. Not sure if there will be enough room to place a jack stand with the jack still in place. Just don't jack under the FRUNK; for a distance of around 12"-14" from the front there's nothing beefy under there. You can jack under the single main frame, or at least under where the smaller cross frame is, right at front end of the main frame.
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shakin_jake
Member
~~~I had to remove both front wheels not long ago to R & R the tires. I used a floor jack and a short piece of 2 by 4 under the A arm. I raised each side one at a time high enough to get the wheels off. I used spare lumber instead of jack stands while the wheels were removed to swap tires. The lumber I used was pieces of 6by 6 and some 2 by 4’s. Worked for me
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while
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