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New Brake Pads

ricford

New member
I have about 37 k on the original factory set and the pedal seems to be getting lower each stop. I've read the site posts on the subject. I ask because I've seen advertised, EBC Double H Sintered, Kevlar pads, Carbon Fiber, even semi-sintered pads. Any brand better than any other. Dealer labor is about an hour. I am concerned about the quality and am willing to pay for it. I'm looking for an expert to tell me which way to run. Considering how many miles I have on the Brembo factory brakes.. maybe they're OK.. An add: Pads NOT Made in China.
 
I have about 37 k on the original factory set and the pedal seems to be getting lower each stop. I've read the site posts on the subject. I ask because I've seen advertised, EBC Double H Sintered, Kevlar pads, Carbon Fiber, even semi-sintered pads. Any brand better than any other. Dealer labor is about an hour. I am concerned about the quality and am willing to pay for it. I'm looking for an expert to tell me which way to run. Considering how many miles I have on the Brembo factory brakes.. maybe they're OK..

37k is a long distance. Especially for the OEM organic pads. You must be extremely easy on your brakes.

I would check the pad thickness. Even if you are metal to metal (not good and I'm sure you are not), the brake peddle should not be getting lower and lower unless something else is not functioning properly (pad or caliper hanging up). A properly functioning system will compensate for pad wear beyond replacement thickness.

Or, it's possible the master cylinder or slave cylinder are bad. Though this is a different feel and you would also be throwing codes, no doubt.

Having the pads replaced should definitely resolve the issue because the entire system would be serviced. But I don't think the pads are the problem.

Kevlar and carbon fiber are simply marketing terms for Organic pads. It makes them sound special. Organic pads are great for quiet and less brake dust. But they don't stop nearly as well or last as long. Sintered is a better way to go. More expensive. But just as quiet as Organic, last longer and stop quite a bit better.
 
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Over the decades, I have tried different brake pads. If there was some improvement, it was only incremental. But when I tried EBC HH pads for the first time, it was a WOW moment - the improvement was dramatic. Need I say more?
 
Over the decades, I have tried different brake pads. If there was some improvement, it was only incremental. But when I tried EBC HH pads for the first time, it was a WOW moment - the improvement was dramatic. Need I say more?

What is the standard friction level for the OEM pads?
 
What is the standard friction level for the OEM pads?
That's a tough one. My bike is just out of the box and I finding the braking more than adequate. Braking is converting energy into heat and dispersing it into the air. The thinner your pads, the less efficient they are at doing that. I put new pads on at the half way mark.
 
:agree: ... and get Ron's .... I have an 2014 RT and my rears almost wore down to metal at 30,000 mi .... the fronts I changed at 42,500 and still had about 4,000 mi left ...... goodluck .... Mike :ohyea:
 
Holey bangers and mash Batman,

Out here in the wild west , we have long stretches of roads/freeways where the brakes don't get used much. My wife and I just finished a 2500 mile tour up to Glacier National Park. Open roads the size of England /Scotland. ( not as green though )nojoke

But there were miles and miles of twisty mountain roads and high passes to test the brakes.

Soooo glad I had the:spyder2: ECU upgraded--- as passing a triple rig hay truck quickly and effortlessly was a must.
Ay lasse---- not trying to be macho. Many folks don't understand the distances in the western part of the US. The Aussies sure do. Even politicians in our national capital call us the " flyover states".

Lew L
 
An expensive month ahead. New Bajaron brakes plus install (roughly 250) and an ECU flash (roughly 600) and very possibly new front tires (roughly 200) Not to worry, I've taken a 2nd mortgage on my house. Well....I did think about it. It'll be a grand month. I just had the oil changed, neww Kumho rear tire so I should be set for a couple thousand miles trip. I know only one person with a Spyder and he doesn't ryde long trips that take two weeks, lots of gas, hotels at night...It does all add up....I'll just sell a couple of my dogs....
 
Are new rotors with the EBC HH pads an absolute necessity?:popcorn:

No, it is not necessary to change out good OEM rotors when installing EBC HH pad sets. Most don't.

Some do get the rotors and pads as a set just to get better braking. Many get just the front rotors, which is also fine. But most who do it have warped the OEM rotors and have to replace them anyway. In this latter case it is a no-brainer. The EBC rotors are not only better, they are quite a bit less expensive than the OEM rotors as well.

What has impressed me is that I've had a number of customers who, having warped 1, 2 or even 3 OEM sets of rotors, are looking for something better. I have never had one of these 'Rotor Warping' experts have an EBC rotor warp on them. I think that really speaks a good deal about the product.
 
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I changed both pads and rotors because I had one front rotor that was scarred significantly more than the other so I figured it would be a good idea to go to three new rotors. When I'm riding aggressively and want to stop, I want to stop fast.
 
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