P0217 limp mode advice

[Magdave]

Well P0217 happened again and here are the details. I have a 2013 RT and after a long ride if I stop to fuel up or for less that 5 or 10 min and restart I am getting an engine over temp and limp mode. Solution is blip the throttle and circulate the fluid ( heat soaked?) shut down and restart and all is good. I have called BRP and have a case number and asked them if they new about SL and they said they certainly do. I told them quite a few 2013 owners were experiencing this. Unfortunately when I called my dealer asking them to report this to BRP they told ME to call them they do not listen to dealers. Not what I wanted to hear really but I am a big boy and can accurately define a problem. I even suggested a fix to BRP and that is a 30-60 delay before this fault sets. It occurred immediately when the key was turned on prior to the engine even starting. With a delay it would give the fluid a chance to circulate. I did notice the temp gauge was at 7 bars when I turned the key on not the usual 5 bars it runs at and dropped to when I started it up in our 90+ degree heat. Moral of the story as others have said if this occurs to you report it to BRP the more that complain the sooner they will fix it. Other than that I am enjoying the ride :yes:

 

[OldCowboy]

Have you tried letting the engine idle for 30-60 seconds before you shut it down to put gas in it? That should help to pull the excess heat out of the engine.

 

[NancysToy]

What you are seeing is not normal or common. There is a problem somewhere that needs to be corrected. It is the dealer's responsibility to do so. Don't call them, take it in, drop it off, and insist that it be troubleshot and repaired. They can contact BRP dealer tech support for advice if need be. The need to start by testing the coolant sensor, and possibly reflashing the ECM. This can be cured if the tech is competent and you give him a chance.

 

[Magdave]

What you are seeing is not normal or common. There is a problem somewhere that needs to be corrected. It is the dealer's responsibility to do so. Don't call them, take it in, drop it off, and insist that it be troubleshot and repaired. They can contact BRP dealer tech support for advice if need be. The need to start by testing the coolant sensor, and possibly reflashing the ECM. This can be cured if the tech is competent and you give him a chance.

It seems more common on the 2013's from what I have read and I am less than sure the tech is competent. They did not know how to adjust the frunk latch or where the tool kit is that should tell you something. I am taking it 75 miles away to a shop that IS competent for the 600mi service. The selling shop wants $600 for that , the place I am going to $300 and told me it takes 2 hrs. I also asked that shop what is different on the 2013's and he knew and gave me correct answers. To be fair the selling shop was recently sold and after talking with the new manager he is competent and his first priority is to get techs that are he realizes what he has now. He is recruiting from out of state up north to find certified wrenches. The question about the early shut down, no I do not wait to turn it off it has been circulating till I do. I missed the part in the manual that tells me to wait to turn it off for gas At least BRP has a case number for it and I suggest others who this has happened to do the same and report it in this thread too.

 

[Chupaca]

Have to agree..!!

though have seen several posts on this subject have to agree with scotty that it is not normal or common. May be an issue with the 13's but should be taken care of. The weather is going to get hotter...hope you are more than a case number...good luck..!! :dontknow:

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I had this happen and reported it to Dany Davey during Maggie Valley. He is the one who told me about the "passive" limp mode. I got the impression from him that P0217 and P0127 are nothing to worry about and once you get moving the condition will go away. Unlike the OP though my temp gauge has always read the same and did not go up when I have had these errors.

 

[NancysToy]

I had this happen and reported it to Dany Davey during Maggie Valley. He is the one who told me about the "passive" limp mode. I got the impression from him that P0217 and P0127 are nothing to worry about and once you get moving the condition will go away. Unlike the OP though my temp gauge has always read the same and did not go up when I have had these errors.

The fact that the temperature gauge reads normally while the warning flashes and limp mode is triggered indicates that it is probably some sort of programming error. There is only one temperature sender, and it feeds the ECM, which relays the reading to the cluster, and thence to the gauge. They all should read the same, so it is probably a matter of too fast an update at the ECM, which triggers from a quick excursion or from noise, or some type of error in the lookup table. BRP should be making an effort to correct this problem. If they are not, they are falling down on the job. Like the low oil pressure alarm after changing oil, the high engine temperature alarm should never be ignored by an owner. To encourage them to do so is unwise.

One question I have for folks with this difficulty...does the fan come on? If it does not, this is most assuredly a firmware glitch. Not present in the earlier models, so it sure should be able to be cured pretty readily with a simple update if that is the case. If BRP thinks that people will continue to pay this much for a vehicle which is as buggy as a termite ridden log, I think they are mistaken. Stalling when new, false alarms, overgeating, steering issues, and similar product difficulties can kill a brand faster than they think. They have to make an effort to correct them, not just explain them. If not, people are going to get real unhappy. JMHO

 

[Magdave]

Yes NT my fan works as it should my right shin can attest to that. Maybe they should come on sooner I am not sure what temp they actually should start can any say 4,5, or 6 bars? It always kicks on for a few seconds at shut down AFAIK. I also agree with your assessment of reading too fast or a comm error.

 

[KAPike]

If BRP thinks that people will continue to pay this much for a vehicle which is as buggy as a termite ridden log, I think they are mistaken. Stalling when new, false alarms, overgeating, steering issues, and similar product difficulties can kill a brand faster than they think. They have to make an effort to correct them, not just explain them. If not, people are going to get real unhappy. JMHO

The nail has been firmly hit on the head. I have a 2012 RT. I have only had one minor limp mode issue. On my way home from Maggie Valley my guy went into limp mode. Based on what I have read on SL, I pulled over, shut the spyder down, took the key and walked way. Came back a few minutes later, fired it up and drove the rest of the way home. I talked with my servicing dealer about it and they had heard about it doing that before, but were clueless, only to say these random limp mode issues are common in spyders and until BRP gets enough pressure on a particle issues it doesn't get fixed or an update written to take care of it. I don't know if this is actually BRP mode of operation or the dealers opinion, but based on the knowledge of my dealer and his reputation, I tend to lean his way.

I hate having to drive my RT with a rabbits foot in my left pocket, a New Testament in my right pocket and a hope and prayer I arrive at my destination. I will tell you that has long as my RT continues be a stable running machine it will have a space in the garage. Will I upgrade and buy a new one?????? Mine runs good now, why take a chance on the newest offering and upgrade.

I've had at least 5 touring cycles and I've never had so much concern that "I'm next" then I have with my RT.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Scotty, my fan seems to work normally.

 

[tobor9]

It seems more common on the 2013's from what I have read and I am less than sure the tech is competent. They did not know how to adjust the frunk latch or where the tool kit is that should tell you something. I am taking it 75 miles away to a shop that IS competent for the 600mi service. The selling shop wants $600 for that , the place I am going to $300 and told me it takes 2 hrs. I also asked that shop what is different on the 2013's and he knew and gave me correct answers. To be fair the selling shop was recently sold and after talking with the new manager he is competent and his first priority is to get techs that are he realizes what he has now. He is recruiting from out of state up north to find certified wrenches. The question about the early shut down, no I do not wait to turn it off it has been circulating till I do. I missed the part in the manual that tells me to wait to turn it off for gas At least BRP has a case number for it and I suggest others who this has happened to do the same and report it in this thread too.

I don't know where in SC you are, but if not too far Valocity PowerSports in Ladson,SC(near Charleston) has a great Spyder tech and is worth the drive if you are not too far away.

 

[spyderpoop]

shop

what shop did you buy it from and what shop is gonna do your work for $300 as I live in SC also and want to go to a good shop also but so far I end up takeing it to NC to have work done on it thanks Rich

 

[Magdave]

what shop did you buy it from and what shop is gonna do your work for $300 as I live in SC also and want to go to a good shop also but so far I end up takeing it to NC to have work done on it thanks Rich

I am going to go to Lumberton for the 600mi service. Who do you use?

 

[spyderpoop]

shop

I been takeing mine to Mathews fun machine on 74 in Mathews off 485 near Charlotte think its exit 51 they do a good job just very very slow

 

[StanProff]

What you are seeing is not normal or common. There is a problem somewhere that needs to be corrected. It is the dealer's responsibility to do so. Don't call them, take it in, drop it off, and insist that it be troubleshot and repaired. They can contact BRP dealer tech support for advice if need be. The need to start by testing the coolant sensor, and possibly reflashing the ECM. This can be cured if the tech is competent and you give him a chance.

:agree: My 2010 RTS has never done this. Maybe the air flow has changed somewhat but I don't think so on the '13 RT's
I think, with the issues on the '13s, that the dealers are not pushing the sale of them. The handling issues and heat issues seem to be causing the dealers to be a little shy on the sales floor. I've driven by two dealers recently and not seen a spyder on display outside the dealers. Two years ago they were setting everywhere outside to get the drive by attention. Has anyone else noticed this?