Purchasing a 2008 GS - Anything I should be aware of?

[TIMEMACHINE]

Hello everyone,

I’m thinking about purchasing a 2008 GS with roughly 12k miles, in very clean condition for about $5500. This will be my first Can-Am and my first experience with a trike/roadster.

My questions are in regards to this (first generation?) model. I’ve searched the forum and have a few basic tidbits I’ve learned. My nagging questions are as follows;

1. Are all parts still available for this year/model?

2. How many miles can this motor be expected to survive with good care? Is 12k much?

3. Are the traction/ABS/stability controls as good as today’s models?

4. Any other issues or concerns with this model?

5. Will certified dealers still work on the old, discontinued models?

Thanks for any input and assistance!

 

[CopperSpyder]

Q1. A1. You should be able to get any part you need from BRP or after market or used.
Q2. A2 part 1. well over 100 to 150,000 + miles. Q2 A2 part 2. 12,000 mile is very low maybe too low.
Q3. A3 the abs and traction stability is one of the best for 2008 and still very good but things do improve over time and its been 13 years since the 2008 model so todays models are improved.
Q4. A4 Best thing to do is research and look around; this forum has some of the best information you can find anywhere. Nothing wrong with the 2008 GS that I know of.
Q5. A5 Yes Dealers will still work on 2008 GS model Spyder again I have never heard of a dealer not wanting to work on one.

Good Luck on your research and Spyder shopping. :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

Q1. A1. You should be able to get any part you need from BRP or after market or used.
Q2. A2 part 1. well over 100 to 150,000 + miles. Q2 A2 part 2. 12,000 mile is very low maybe too low.
Q3. A3 the abs and traction stability is one of the best for 2008 and still very good but things do improve over time and its been 13 years since the 2008 model so todays models are improved.
Q4. A4 Best thing to do is research and look around; this forum has some of the best information you can find anywhere. Nothing wrong with the 2008 GS that I know of.
Q5. A5 Yes Dealers will still work on 2008 GS model Spyder again I have never heard of a dealer not wanting to work on one.

Good Luck on your research and Spyder shopping. :thumbup:

:agree: x2 :congrats I had one of those. A great machine.

 

[jayallday01]

Hello everyone,

I’m thinking about purchasing a 2008 GS with roughly 12k miles, in very clean condition for about $5500. This will be my first Can-Am and my first experience with a trike/roadster.

My questions are in regards to this (first generation?) model. I’ve searched the forum and have a few basic tidbits I’ve learned. My nagging questions are as follows;

1. Are all parts still available for this year/model?

2. How many miles can this motor be expected to survive with good care? Is 12k much?

3. Are the traction/ABS/stability controls as good as today’s models?

4. Any other issues or concerns with this model?

5. Will certified dealers still work on the old, discontinued models?

Thanks for any input and assistance!

I own an 08. My only issue as of late is stuttering take offs, running lean, and rough idle at times. A post n the SpyderLovers FB group solved that issue. The throttle body flanges are prone to hardening and cracking over time causing air leaks that in turn cause the issues I described. I changed them out, not a hard job at all, and I am running great again. Love my 08 GS.

 

[xxLoTeKxx]

i just bought my 2009 Spyder GS (SM5) with 47,000mi about a month ago so far only thing iv seen wrong is either the parking break is not adjusted right or the cable is bad
i just zip tied the parking break lever up till i have a chance to get it looked at. it was tripping the PB sensor

other then that small thing it runs and performs like a new bike in mho!

still getting use to it coming from 2 wheels but i am enjoying it so far

 

[Neez]

The parking brake adjustment is easy but needs to be done frequently. This is important on the semiauto model unless you want the spider to roll away from a parking spot. Get a shop manual if you can. I'm still running my trusty 2008 GS-SE5 that I bought new and after many mods it suits me perfectly. Traction, ABS, stability control all work fine.

 

[xxLoTeKxx]

thanks for the nfo, i downloaded a shop manual in pdf format but haven't looked through it that much
so you think that's something i could do myself?

 

[Bfromla]

thanks for the nfo, i downloaded a shop manual in pdf format but haven't looked through it that much
so you think that's something i could do myself?

Getting personal & well aquatinted with your machine is not a bad thing, just know & don’t push your mechanical level. There is a finesse to the operation & assembly

 

[PistonBlown]

The GS became the RS and was basically unchanged up until 2012. So any comments you see for that range on this forum hold true.

1. No issues getting parts for maintenance but what is thin on the ground is some of the aftermarket stuff.
2. Engine and gearbox are very reliable, you hardly ever see any mention of issues on this forum even with high mileage machines. Also 12k in 13 years may sound low but you do find some owners do very low mileages.
3. I've no complaints with the ABS and traction control on my 2011 RS. Yep its probably better on new models but it was a very good system from day one.
4. The GS/RS's are surprisingly robust and free of teething issues considering they were the first model released.

The common niggles are:

• There was an issue with the gas cap were some would let vapors out when hot. Can-am issued a recall for this around the end of 2012 and issued new caps - yours should have the replacement but you can ask a dealer to confirm by giving them the VIN number.
• The struts for the rear finder have a habit of cracking, normally where the struts bend to go behind the fender. Can-am tried various fixes over the years but its always been a weakness, A lot of owners ended up just getting them repaired and strengthened rather than replacing them.
• The vent pipe from gas tank goes into a canister, this can get flooded and you start getting a fuel smell after a ride. A common fix was to remove the canister (search on this site for Canisterectomy for details)
• With this being a low mileage thats 13 years old Spyder I'd check the vacuum pipes to make sure they're not perished/cracked (again a search will fill you in). I'd also check the manufacture date on the tires and replace them if they are few years old even if there's plenty of tread - you need good tires on a Spyder. The stock Kenda's on the fronts are fine, But on the rear there are better options. Again you'll find plenty of suggestions on alternatives here (my personal favourite are Toyo Proxies T1R).

I had my 2011 RS from new and it had a lot of abuse doing iron butt rides, mountainous gravel tracks etc. and it has been very reliable.

 

[AVBIZ]

Bought my 08 GS SM5 last Sept ($5700) with 13k on it. Did a “flush & fill” with all the fluids as part of the 14k inspection. Runs great with no issues. Just do a canister-ectomy on the Evap and you’re golden. I have Rivco floorboards and I am dropping off to a fabricator tomorrow to build a heel/toe shifter for it.

 

[TIMEMACHINE]

Thanks to you all for the great information, I really appreciate the great advice and assistance!

I will see what happens with the purchase tomorrow. I look forward to being a productive member of the forum......great people here!

 

[Freddy]

They also had the 'red dust' issue and potential failure of the drive pulley. You can buy a new Spyder and still have the very same failure!!! There was an early TSB to retorque the bolt and mark it with X to show it had been done. Bolt torque was subsequently revised a couple of times up to 110 or 115ftlb. I bought mine new - it's a keeper - much less electronic stuff to fail and frustrate the owner. Spark plug leads were also a common failure upon first attempt to remove plugs. Most have been replaced with aftermarket/quality leads from Bajaron.

Drive pulley bolt issue: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?18252-Front-Sprocket-BRP-Bulletin/page3