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Red Check Engine light on the dash and Orange Check engine light flashing. Any ideas/fixes?

Tatonka

Member
Searched and read several threads, tried some of the suggestions. Thought I would see if anything new is out there.
2013 RT, only 2500 miles on it… has been on battery tender and not driven lately… started right up yesterday, no problem. Started right up today, seems to be normal 1300-1400 rpm, but the check engine light comes on, no code displayed…
The red check engine is on in the dash and an orange check engine flashes. Any ideas?
 
Searched and read several threads, tried some of the suggestions. Thought I would see if anything new is out there.
2013 RT, only 2500 miles on it… has been on battery tender and not driven lately… started right up yesterday, no problem. Started right up today, seems to be normal 1300-1400 rpm, but the check engine light comes on, no code displayed…
The red check engine is on in the dash and an orange check engine flashes. Any ideas?
Hey T. Many times, when someone has a Check Engine Light, and they say "no codes displayed", they have forgotten that codes don't simply pop up on the screen on their own. You have to push some buttons to get them to display. So, just to be certain of everything, start it up, make sure that the Check Engine light is on and is staying on - that means that the codes are active - leave the engine running and:

Simultaneously depress the MODE Button, the SET button, and push the Turn Signal Button straight in. Take care on the turn signal button to be sure it's going straight in to the Cancel position. The center LCD display will shift to another display and list the codes on the screen. Put on your reading glasses if needed, write them down, and come back on here. We can help better at that point.

A 2013 Spyder with only 2500 miles on it. This could be a dozen things. Ever think of selling it?
 
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Hey T. Many times, when someone has a Check Engine Light, and they say "no codes displayed", they have forgotten that codes don't simply pop up on the screen on their own. You have to push some buttons to get them to display. So,...just to be certain of everything, start it up, make sure that the Check Engine light is on and is staying on - that means that the codes are active - leave the engine running and:

Simultaneously depress the MODE Button, the SET button, and push the Turn Signal Button straight in. Take care on the turn signal button to be sure it's going straight in to the Cancel position. The center LCD display will shift to another display and list the codes on the screen. Put on your reading glasses if needed, write them down, and come back on here. We can help better at that point.
'
A 2013 Spyder with only 2500 miles on it. This could be a dozen things. Ever think of selling it?
Thanks for the info. I’ll give it a try. Thinking of buying it??
 
Regardless of the code, you'll need to get that crap gas out of the tank.

Buying it? (shrug) North Carolina, right? Has the Heat Management recall been performed on it? Is it a Limited? What color is it?

This is probably only the beginning of your problems. The 998 needs to be run. Think of the age of all the rubber parts, the maintenance intervals that may or may not have been missed. The fluids. They need to heat up and circulate. Riding 4 hours a year, just isn't healthy for it. Set it free. Somebody out there make an offer, hitch up your trailer and go get it.
 
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Ok. Followed the directions - mode, set, turn signal... The screen changed, but was still blank. No codes or anything else. Any idea from that?
 
Hey T.,
So, the CEL showing with no codes is definitely not supposed to happen. But, I've heard of this from others before. And it also happened to my 2012 a few years back after I got some bad gas out west. The original codes were ‘Lean on Bank 2,’ coming and going, every few minutes. After using up that gas and getting fresh, the faults cleared, but the light didn’t reset. I let the bike go through a number of startup cycles but the light didn’t reset on its own. I had to reset the light with BUDS. BUDS didn’t show any ‘ACTIVE’ faults either, so I had to clear all of the ‘OCCURRED’ faults, which there were many, of course. Then, the light finally reset.

I’m thinking it might be a software glitch.

I still believe that what started this for you is the gas in the tank. It’s been sitting there for so long, and even if you treat it, humidity and condensation still happen, especially in your climate. Ethanol and Sta-Bil (if you use it) both bind with water, so there’s still water in there, even if it’s not sitting in a puddle at the bottom of the tank. So, there’s still water going through your engine, along with gas, ethanol, and Sta-Bil, and it’s affecting combustion.

At this point, my only suggestion is to get some fresh fuel in the tank. A dose of Seafoam won’t hurt anything. Commit to riding for at least the whole tank to do a fuel system cleaning. I can’t promise that the CEL will reset on its own. Sorry. You might need to get someone with BUDS. Wish you were closer. We’d take care of it. That’s the sum of my experience with this weird issue. Good luck!
 
So I was watching some videos of Martin in the Vlogger, and he demonstrated a technique, crediting LaMonster,
to get error codes. So I tried it and voila, code P0131 pops up… Low voltage signal on oxygen sensor bank one.
So it’s buy a new oxygen sensor and try to find where it goes in the bike. Found one YouTube video that is helpful. Has anyone done this and has good advice?
 
Unfortunately sound very familiar & never resolved:
 
Replaced the O2 sensor… Any idea how to make the check engine light go away?
The Check Engine Light normally goes away once the problem is resolved. :unsure:

Have you ridden the Spyder at all since you replaced the O2 Sensor?? If it's fixed the problem, it might take a mile or two for the warning to reset/the light to catch up; but it shouldn't really take 10... So if the Check Engine Light is still on after 10 miles of riding, the particular problem that triggered it in the first place probably hasn't been resolved yet! 😖
 
No, did not ride just started it up. I'm pretty sure the O2 sensor was the issue due to the error code and the old sensor looked pretty burned up. It's certainly not an easy part to get to. I will take a short ride and see what happens.
 
Well, I accidentally posted my response in the wrong thread, so I’ll make it short. I idled it for 12 min @ 1400 rpm, then
Turned it off, and it showed code P0136, which is the O2 sensor, Bank 1, sensor 2. Sensor 2??
I waited for it to cool, then started it again, and the Check Engine light was gone!!
 
🥺 Sadly, I started it up to ride the Spyder into the garage, and the check engine is back. I checked for error codes, and it's the Original 02 sensor code again… what the what!?!
 
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