Self testing cranking amps on 1330 RTL

[teninospyder]

'somewhere in here" I read a post where it was mentioned that the person held the throttle all the way open and cranked the engine while taking a voltmeter reading of the battery. Does this mean that opening the throttle all the way to do this measurement will shut off fuel flow during the cranking exercise?

 

[billybovine]

Yes. As with most fuel injection systems. When the throttle is held wide open. Before and during crank. The fuel injectors are off. That mode is there to clear an engine flooded condition.

 

[teninospyder]

OK - I ckecked it this way

Yes. As with most fuel injection systems. When the throttle is held wide open. Before and during crank. The fuel injectors are off. That mode is there to clear an engine flooded condition.

OK -A

fter watching F1 race from Monaco, ​

I went out just now, (8:30AM PST 50 degrees overnight) and checked the battery voltage before starting. Read 12.1V. Had my friendly helper hold foot on brake, turn throttle full open and hit the start button for a while. Voltage didn't drop below 11.1.

I "assume" this means my battery is still good :dontknow:

 

[billybovine]

OK -A

fter watching F1 race from Monaco, ​

I went out just now, (8:30AM PST 50 degrees overnight) and checked the battery voltage before starting. Read 12.1V. Had my friendly helper hold foot on brake, turn throttle full open and hit the start button for a while. Voltage didn't drop below 11.1.

I "assume" this means my battery is still good :dontknow:

Your battery at rest voltage is a little low. Indicator that it is not fully charged.

Minimum voltage during crank of 11.1 is great. That is a good battery. I think the service manual says 10. But I would have to look that up to make sure.

 

[billybovine]

Just looked in the 2016 F3 manual. Same engine as yours. Load testing the battery by cranking the engine is no longer there. Only testing with a load tester is. So at a load of 150 Amps for 5 seconds. Minimum voltage of 10.

 

[teninospyder]

Latest battery info and test results

Just looked in the 2016 F3 manual. Same engine as yours. Load testing the battery by cranking the engine is no longer there. Only testing with a load tester is. So at a load of 150 Amps for 5 seconds. Minimum voltage of 10.

Billy (can I call you Billy ?) More detail than you want probably but here goes. I "remembered" last night after reading your post again that I have the 2014 shop manual, so I looked up the battery testing section in it and found they do mention in that version the "other" procedure that I used for testing. They do also mention the more Sophisticated load test. Yesterday we were out 3 hours on the bike - breaks for lunch etc. - country roads (no highways - never do if we can help it) So I redid my tests this AM. First off I discovered why I read the low 12.1V in that first test I posted, even though I had seen 12.75 the day before. Here are the full test results from today.

Check battery with no load - sitting in garage after night down to 40 degrees - 12.77 volts
turn on key to start test - voltage goes down to 12.1 due to headlight and other initial drains (this was the number I originally posted that you saw here).
Did start test twice for approx. 5 sec each - voltage reading 11.1
Repeated test directly after with same results.

Conclusion - Actual starting "seems" slow, but maybe it's me :dontknow:
While my "around town" concern is less now (I have the jump starter with us), My other half is still thinking we shouldn't risk a 4 year old battery going bad on a 1500 mile trip into unfriendly territories (Central Oregon highlands, lowlands, range animals, ghost towns, NO dealer towns within 200 miles, etc.). Given the fact I like it when we "get along", I'm going to replace it for our trip and decide what to do with the old one later (put it back in and save the new one?).


I do appreciate your inputs on this. :clap:

 

[billybovine]

Changing out the battery to give you more confidence is always an option and not really that expensive. But from what you are telling me. The battery sounds fine.

I want you to confirm something you said. You said the headlights are on with the key. That should not be. They should only come on after the engine starts. Please confirm that.

If the headlights are not an issue. You could check the connections to the starter. So from the battery to the solenoid. Solenoid to the starter. Don't forget the main engine ground. Any time a connection is made to aluminium. That always has a potential for a problem.

Hope that helps.

PS Engine ground is the first one I would check. Locations will be in your service manual.

 

[teninospyder]

guess I should have walked around

Changing out the battery to give you more confidence is always an option and not really that expensive. But from what you are telling me. The battery sounds fine.

I want you to confirm something you said. You said the headlights are on with the key. That should not be. They should only come on after the engine starts. Please confirm that.

If the headlights are not an issue. You could check the connections to the starter. So from the battery to the solenoid. Solenoid to the starter. Don't forget the main engine ground. Any time a connection is made to aluminium. That always has a potential for a problem.

Hope that helps.

PS Engine ground is the first one I would check. Locations will be in your service manual.

It's not the headlights. I never noticed what it was before and never walked around to see while starting it It's the small running lights next to the headlights, the front fender running lights, and the rear running lights. Interesting the manual doesn't show you what the individual lights are or where.