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Shock test?

Magdave

New member
What is the best way to test the front shocks on a spyder? I know you can bounce a car and count the rebounds but I am guessing that won't work well on a spyder unless the shock is totally shot. What would be a way to find just a weak shock. I ask because I know above 65mph the handling gets touchy and requires white knuckling. I have the Ron Bar and can feel the difference below 65 a lot. I would like to relax at 70mph on a slab and not worry about it swaying back and forth. I also am thinking an Outlaw alignment would help but they have not bee near enough during the cold weather for me to get one done. Thoughts?:thumbup:
 
Have you noticed a change in the handling characteristics of the bike? :dontknow:
I'd PM Trooper, and see what he has to say. :thumbup:
 
What is the best way to test the front shocks on a spyder? I know you can bounce a car and count the rebounds but I am guessing that won't work well on a spyder unless the shock is totally shot. What would be a way to find just a weak shock. I ask because I know above 65mph the handling gets touchy and requires white knuckling. I have the Ron Bar and can feel the difference below 65 a lot. I would like to relax at 70mph on a slab and not worry about it swaying back and forth. I also am thinking an Outlaw alignment would help but they have not bee near enough during the cold weather for me to get one done. Thoughts?:thumbup:
For a 2013 to be a first rate, handle anything bike, I feel it needs elka shocks, bajaron antisway bar, and then the laser alignment. I rode one without these features a 1000 miles and was frightened and exhausted. then i rode with a friend with 2013 RTS back and forth to Maggie Valley in Sept with lots of slab time and 5 days of curve riding.. Both he and I were impressed with the comfort and handling of his ride.. incidentally we ride slab with cruise control set on 78 and he was riding two up. If that equipment does not shape up the ride then the shocks would have to be defective
 
Have you noticed a change in the handling characteristics of the bike? :dontknow:
I'd PM Trooper, and see what he has to say. :thumbup:

Nothing new it has been this way from day 1 even including Ron's bar. The ride is great up to 60 then gets a little squirrely after that point. I can't get an alignment ( I suspect it needs it) till it gets warmer. My ride time is limited by my back to 3hrs a day so going a long distance is problematic. But I want to eliminate all other causes in the meantime.
 
For a 2013 to be a first rate, handle anything bike, I feel it needs elka shocks, bajaron antisway bar, and then the laser alignment. I rode one without these features a 1000 miles and was frightened and exhausted. then i rode with a friend with 2013 RTS back and forth to Maggie Valley in Sept with lots of slab time and 5 days of curve riding.. Both he and I were impressed with the comfort and handling of his ride.. incidentally we ride slab with cruise control set on 78 and he was riding two up. If that equipment does not shape up the ride then the shocks would have to be defective
I read a write up about the 2014 shocks/springs fitting a 13 and the difference they made being considerably stiffer and less springy.
 
I read a write up about the 2014 shocks/springs fitting a 13 and the difference they made being considerably stiffer and less springy.

I would highly suspect that your alignment needs attention. Without the right equipment, it's difficult to properly test a shock unless it is really bad (which would be more easily detected).

If you can get an identically fitted Spyder side by side with yours. Then you can vigorously rock each from side to side using foot pegs and handle bars. If you have 1 or 2 bad shocks you should be able to notice a difference. Good shocks will settle the Spyder down almost immediately after the rocking action stops and good shocks should require more effort to get the same amount of side to side motion (assuming yours are bad).

You should also get similar hydraulic noises from the shock fluid moving from one chamber to the other.

Not scientific but a possible place to start.

If you can't tell any difference, your shocks are probably not the issue.
 
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Dave,
I'm kind of "shooting in the dark" here with this; but do you have a way to check the toe-in at home?
I seem to recall somebody in here saying that if the bike tends to wander at speed; it needs a touch more toe-in...
 
What is the best way to test the front shocks on a spyder? I know you can bounce a car and count the rebounds but I am guessing that won't work well on a spyder unless the shock is totally shot. What would be a way to find just a weak shock. I ask because I know above 65mph the handling gets touchy and requires white knuckling. I have the Ron Bar and can feel the difference below 65 a lot. I would like to relax at 70mph on a slab and not worry about it swaying back and forth. I also am thinking an Outlaw alignment would help but they have not bee near enough during the cold weather for me to get one done. Thoughts?:thumbup:

I'd guess your issue is with the springs (not stiff enough in oem configuration) vise damping function. Here are some threads for you:
Front shock (spring): http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?60792-2012-RT-S-SE5-Front-Suspension
Rear shock (spring): http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?61674-2012-RT-S-SE5-Rear-Suspension-(shock)

You don't have to make mods right away, but do add the nylon washers to be able to see how much of the shock working range you are using. That will only cost you $1 for the washers at Home Depot or Lowes. This is the best quantifyable way to see what is happening with your suspension. Don't take someone's subjective input unles you know the person is the same exact weight, has the same riding style, and same bike configuration.

BTW, check under your frunk to see if the underside shows any scraping. post back what you find.

Jerry
 
Little checking..!!

if you can still ryde even short ones I would start by changing the settings and air pressure. See if this changes the stability or the speed at which it occurs. Also if you can have wheel balance checked. Shocks should return but not snap back if you stand on the pegs and lean from side to side. Then when time and weather permits get the new laser alignment done...:thumbup:
 
Unless your shocks are really shot, they are not likely the cause of your problem. If they are completely shot, they will rebound repeatedly (bounce) after pushing down hard. Weak shocks, with insufficient spring capacity or insufficient shock damping can cause that issue, but if you don't have an early '13, or if you do and the front shocks were already replaced, that is not the likely cause here. The inability to adjust the '13 spring tension to adjust for differences in rider weight is a problem, so a very heavy rider could have troubles where others do not. The faulty front ball joints on the early '13s could do it, but if they were replaced or if the Spyder was from later production, that is unlikely.

The most common cause of that problem would be insufficient toe-in. An alignment would cure that, of course. If the Spyder follows every littly bump or change of grade in the road, it likely needs alignment. Other possibilities include suspension defects or worn parts, or steering geometry (design) issues. Those would eventually show up in odd tire wear, similar to alignment problems, as time passes. Another common cause is rider input. Gripping the handlebars too tightly, trying too hard to control every tiny wobble or drift, or "white-knuckling" can in themselves cause the problem to escalate to the point that it becomes scary. The Spyder steering is normally very precise and very sensitive, so it takes very little input to send it wandering all over the road, as you correct and counter-correct. Not saying you are doing that, but it has been a cause or an aggravation for many.

If it were me, I'd get an alignment first...preferably an Outlaw alignment. If you suspect the shocks or the ball joints, see your dealer about replacement. Have another experienced Spyder rider ride your Spyder and see if that person feels the same. Ride a demo or another owner's Spyder and compare. A Spyder that is right can be ridden readily at 100 or more with one hand on the bars (don't ask how I know). If yours is not stable, the cause should be carefully investigated and corrected.
 
I agree Scotty and I have used different air pressure from 15-20lb up front and it seems the same. No vibration so I tend to discount tire balance and believe me I would rather not be white knuckling at 70 and do not (just rest my fingers on the grips) under 60 but it tends to start hunting a lot at 70 on the highways. It could be living close to the coast and having afternoon breezes that go across the highway I test on adding to it. I had it up to 85 one time on a warm still day on a long smooth country tree lined 2 lane straight away and it was somewhat OK but not a speed I would hold for long. As soon as it is warm enough and Outlaw is close enough I plan on getting it done :thumbup:. Like I said just want to eliminate any variable between now and then.
 
I agree Scotty and I have used different air pressure from 15-20lb up front and it seems the same. No vibration so I tend to discount tire balance and believe me I would rather not be white knuckling at 70 and do not (just rest my fingers on the grips) under 60 but it tends to start hunting a lot at 70 on the highways. It could be living close to the coast and having afternoon breezes that go across the highway I test on adding to it. I had it up to 85 one time on a warm still day on a long smooth country tree lined 2 lane straight away and it was somewhat OK but not a speed I would hold for long. As soon as it is warm enough and Outlaw is close enough I plan on getting it done :thumbup:. Like I said just want to eliminate any variable between now and then.
If wind is a factor, a BajaRon swaybar can help. If you have the bar, alignment is the prime suspect. Following bumps and road contours (hunting ion a rough road) is a sign that the alignment could be improved.
 
I replaced the stock shocks with Elka's and they made a world of difference on my 2012 RTS. Highly recommended. :2thumbs:

The aftermarket front shocks make such a world of difference because the front (and rear) oem coil spring is simply too soft. I believe you can make them work for some modest costs or you can buy the superior Elka shocks (they just cost a pretty penny).

For those that will put in the nylon washers, you will find out if your springs are really up to task of handling your riding needs.

Jerry
 
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