• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Short reach handlebar question

wvedec

New member
I am thinking that I would like to have my handlebars on my F3-T closer to me, as well as higher. So, I was thinking of getting the short reach handlebar and rotating it upward a bit. I thought I read a post here (can't find it) where an owner said that their handlebar was rotating when he pushed on it. I think someone said that there is some sort of locking tab that fits into a hole in the handle bar to prevent rotation. If that is true, then my idea would not work, as there would be only one possible vertical orientation for the handlebars. Is that true, or can the handlebar be rotated and locked down to vary the height of the grips?

Also, I assume that when you swap out the stock bars for the short reach bars that there is a long enough length of the cable and wires hidden in the dash so that the controls can be reattached. Is that true? Is there an estimate of what how much additional cable/wire length is available?

Thanks for your help.

Wayne
 
We have the same machine (well the L) Just did this exact swap last night. Perfect timing lol.
There is def vertical adjustment available when you do the swap. There is a locator pin to keep the bars centered, but it allows for a pretty big vertical swing either way. We bought a Corbin seat which sets you back further and so we needed longer bars. Its perfect again now.
Theres enough slack in the cables to reach, no worries. Super easy change over. 8 bolts total and they come with the kit, i guess because they want you to have new Loc-Tite. Same sizes as stock. The only thing i noticed was the cable retaining clips that they send are not the right size. I just used the old ones. And after the swap you only need the two closest to the grips anyway. Theres less slack and it stays nice and tight to the bars with just those two.
Got the kit for $120 shipped Priority mail.
 
Last edited:
I'm also considering having this (short reach handlebars) done on my F3-T. Is this done by relocating the existing handlebars (sort of like adjusting the foot pegs)? Or is a completely different handlebar required? I see that you did it yourself - but I'm (err...) mechanically-challenged. Did you get any pricing on what the whole thing would cost if done at a dealer?

Thanks!
 
My Daytona came with drag bars and I'm considering going to short reach. I have never ridden a f3 with stock or short reach bars. Anyone out there with experience with both that can give me their opinion in the difference in feel? I'm 5'7 and I don't necessarily hate the drag bars but when I sat on a regular f3 the bars felt more comfortable. But that's only sitting not riding so not really sure if I should go for it.
 
My Daytona came with drag bars and I'm considering going to short reach. I have never ridden a f3 with stock or short reach bars. Anyone out there with experience with both that can give me their opinion in the difference in feel? I'm 5'7 and I don't necessarily hate the drag bars but when I sat on a regular f3 the bars felt more comfortable. But that's only sitting not riding so not really sure if I should go for it.

Since you also are riding a D-500, I'm thinking that the handling (in general) is something you may miss switching to the regular bars. Could be wrong, but this typically goes for snowmobiles. And IMO there's a very close resemblance to how these things ride/corner/handle. (I'm 5'10 and maybe that makes a difference as to how nicely the drag bars feel to me.) ~ You had better ride one first and take it through corners and on crowned roads before making the change! (And if/when you do I hope you'll give us a detailed comparison!)

Also thinking that with your mods (sway bar in particular) it might be like taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back! Curious about that sway bar. How many miles on bike before you upgraded. And how much difference do you honestly notice? Does it really stiffen the outer wheel in corners? I heard the newer F3-S chassis is much better in the "side roll" department even with the stock sway bar. Mine feels pretty darn good stock..... And I'm convinced it's mostly the low pressure tires that I feel "give" a little at times.
 
Last edited:
I'm also considering having this (short reach handlebars) done on my F3-T. Is this done by relocating the existing handlebars (sort of like adjusting the foot pegs)? Or is a completely different handlebar required? I see that you did it yourself - but I'm (err...) mechanically-challenged. Did you get any pricing on what the whole thing would cost if done at a dealer?

Thanks!

No, they are a completely different set of bars. The bars are $450 for chrome and $150 for black. I wouldn't think it would take more than an hour for your dealer to swap them out.
 
I did this swap on my F3 and it was very easy. I wanted more vertical adjustment so I cut the center pin off.
 
My Daytona came with drag bars and I'm considering going to short reach. I have never ridden a f3 with stock or short reach bars. Anyone out there with experience with both that can give me their opinion in the difference in feel? I'm 5'7 and I don't necessarily hate the drag bars but when I sat on a regular f3 the bars felt more comfortable. But that's only sitting not riding so not really sure if I should go for it.
We went from the stock ones to the short reach ones. For us it actually helps with leverage in the turns. We also lowered them a hair too. Really helps in the turns. It actually feels like we dont have to push as hard because we are closer to the bars. Hard to explain but i would say this and the new windshield are the best mods we've done so far.
 
Just watch if you pivot the bars lower, the switch housings will hit the Tupperware when you turn side to side.

H2O
 
It's been pretty well covered above, Wvedec, but there is also a pin at the grips. When I rotated mine up, I also needed to rotate the left grip as the indicator and other buttons did not fall easily to hand. (The right grip is fine as you only have occasional buttons like hazards, cruise etc). Others have ground the pin off with no issues with the grip rotating. I found it just as easy to drill an extra small hole in the bars at the position I wanted, to keep the grip locked in position. If you go the drill route, pop something solid over the wiring and stuff some rag in the end of the bar to hold filings.

Pete
 
Just watch if you pivot the bars lower, the switch housings will hit the Tupperware when you turn side to side.

H2O


I changed the standard ones to the Attitude bars. Not much difference. But I did notice that if I do a extreme left turn the turn indicator does tap the tank. Does anyone have a suggestion with a fix ?

Thanks
 
I changed the standard ones to the Attitude bars. Not much difference. But I did notice that if I do a extreme left turn the turn indicator does tap the tank. Does anyone have a suggestion with a fix ?

Thanks

Just loosen the bolts, "roll" the bar up a bit, tighten bolts. Check it's all clear at full lock both directions.
;);):ohyea:
 
Just loosen the bolts, "roll" the bar up a bit, tighten bolts. Check it's all clear at full lock both directions.
;);):ohyea:

Forget hitting the tank, Lois. Even with the bars rolled up, they never get near the tank as they hit my bloody knees. To do a full lock turn I have to hang off the side of the bike.....Awkward ;):D:D

Pete
 
What can I say Pete? Some of us don't have your knee "problem" so we get bars-hit-tank problem.
Must be all that rarified air you breath up there ... Short people get more oxygen don't ya know
:joke::joke::roflblack::roflblack:
 
Switched out

I switched my F3T bars to the short reach. I have them rotated down and did hit my tank when I was turning. Hubby did the switch within an hour. I ordered the black bars through a dealership for 149.00.
 
Just loosen the bolts, "roll" the bar up a bit, tighten bolts. Check it's all clear at full lock both directions.
;);):ohyea:

Thanks for the tip. I was going to switch back to the Standard reach bars this weekend to see if it made a difference. Now I need to figure out how to touch up the tank where it got hit. Never ends!:banghead::banghead:
 
Just a footnote here regarding stock clearance: My stock (drag bars) on my 2017 f3-d500 do in fact barely hit the left side of the tank at full turn. I haven't changed and/or adjusted anything. They're set correctly on center and feel "just right."
 
What can I say Pete? Some of us don't have your knee "problem" so we get bars-hit-tank problem.
Must be all that rarified air you breath up there ... Short people get more oxygen don't ya know
:joke::joke::roflblack::roflblack:

So THAT'S what's happened to my brain.....it's YOU stealing my oxygen, Lois....stop that at once........I don't have enough brain to give any away :ohyea:

Pete
 
Back
Top