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Tow Hitch - Paid the Dealer Price - Should I pay $240 for them to install?
- Thread starter Bogeyjoe
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
If the box is complete with the instructions; save the money, and nail it into place yourself. :thumbup:
BRP's instructions are VERY complete; just follow them right down to the smallest letter, and tiniest punctiation point, and you can do it! nojoke
BRP's instructions are VERY complete; just follow them right down to the smallest letter, and tiniest punctiation point, and you can do it! nojoke
hitch
the hitch it self is very easy to install , you attach the two side plates to the hitch bar and take the axel nut covers off the rear axel and slide the hitch into place. and the new long bolt goes right through the original axel, DO NOT loosen the axel bolt on the bike. not necessary. the wiring it self is plug and play. however you do have to remove some body parts, per directions. plan about two hours. hope this helps. the wire harness has a fore wire flat plug on it.
the hitch it self is very easy to install , you attach the two side plates to the hitch bar and take the axel nut covers off the rear axel and slide the hitch into place. and the new long bolt goes right through the original axel, DO NOT loosen the axel bolt on the bike. not necessary. the wiring it self is plug and play. however you do have to remove some body parts, per directions. plan about two hours. hope this helps. the wire harness has a fore wire flat plug on it.
Last edited:
Magdave
New member
Not hard to make a 4 flat to a 4 square here is a link:thumbup:
http://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2013/07/15/can-am-spyder-hitch-kit-4-pin-adapter/
The picture below shows the connector cut in half.
The connector that I purchased has two ribs on each side for gripping purposes. A picture of those ribs is shown in the picture below. They must be removed to achieve the proper distance between the pins when the two 2-pin sides are reattached.
The picture below shows the two 2-pin connectors with the ribs carefully sliced off using the same sharp knife that was suggested above.
The picture below shows the two 2-pin connectors reconnected, temporarily, with a piece of black electrician’s tape. NOTE there is only ONE way the two pieces are to be reattached, and that is where the ribs have been removed from one side of the original connector. A test fitting of the reattached, taped, now 4-pin ‘square’ connector will verify the correct alignment of the connector. Incorrect reattachment will result in the turn-signals on the Spyder blinking on opposite sides as the sides blinking on the trailer! The camera angle is causing a distortion of the image such that the pins look mis-aligned… they are all parallel to each other!
The test fitting of the newly fashioned 4-pin square connector on the Spyder trailer hitch is shown below.
Note that it may be necessary to remove additional material on the newly fashioned 4-pin square connector where the two sides meet since the combined width of the sides of the original 4-pin flat is likely greater than the distance between the pins, on center, of the original 4-pin flat connector. Sandpaper can be used, carefully, to thin each side, independently, equally.
Permanently attach the correctly sized sides using an appropriate permanent glue with black electrician’s tape wrapping for additional strength and integrity of the connection.
Additional pictures and remarks may be added after testing this modified harness on a after-market, non-BRP trailer that is on order at this writing.
Revisions / Addendums:
The tow-behind trailer arrived in pieces, and after assembling the parts there were ten wires coming out of the front that controlled all of the lighting of the trailer. Those ten wires were attached to the 4 wires of the modified 4-flat trailer wiring connector.
Additional sanding of the sides of the connector that meet to form the square was required to achieve the correct dimensions of the part. Note that the rubber tends to roll against the sandpaper so some care must be exercised in this operation to maintain the ‘flat’ of the surface being sanded.
The picture below is of the modified 4-flat connecter plugged into the 4-square of the hitch of the Spyder Can-Am with an electrical tie added to maintain the connection in rough highway conditions.
Last edited:
Bob Denman
New member
:congrats: :yes: :2thumbs:
Buggy
New member
Not hard to make a 4 flat to a 4 square here is a link:thumbup:
http://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2013/07/15/can-am-spyder-hitch-kit-4-pin-adapter/
The picture below shows the connector cut in half.
The connector that I purchased has two ribs on each side for gripping purposes. A picture of those ribs is shown in the picture below. They must be removed to achieve the proper distance between the pins when the two 2-pin sides are reattached.
The picture below shows the two 2-pin connectors with the ribs carefully sliced off using the same sharp knife that was suggested above.
The picture below shows the two 2-pin connectors reconnected, temporarily, with a piece of black electrician’s tape. NOTE there is only ONE way the two pieces are to be reattached, and that is where the ribs have been removed from one side of the original connector. A test fitting of the reattached, taped, now 4-pin ‘square’ connector will verify the correct alignment of the connector. Incorrect reattachment will result in the turn-signals on the Spyder blinking on opposite sides as the sides blinking on the trailer! The camera angle is causing a distortion of the image such that the pins look mis-aligned… they are all parallel to each other!
The test fitting of the newly fashioned 4-pin square connector on the Spyder trailer hitch is shown below.
Note that it may be necessary to remove additional material on the newly fashioned 4-pin square connector where the two sides meet since the combined width of the sides of the original 4-pin flat is likely greater than the distance between the pins, on center, of the original 4-pin flat connector. Sandpaper can be used, carefully, to thin each side, independently, equally.
Permanently attach the correctly sized sides using an appropriate permanent glue with black electrician’s tape wrapping for additional strength and integrity of the connection.
Additional pictures and remarks may be added after testing this modified harness on a after-market, non-BRP trailer that is on order at this writing.
Revisions / Addendums:
The tow-behind trailer arrived in pieces, and after assembling the parts there were ten wires coming out of the front that controlled all of the lighting of the trailer. Those ten wires were attached to the 4 wires of the modified 4-flat trailer wiring connector.
Additional sanding of the sides of the connector that meet to form the square was required to achieve the correct dimensions of the part. Note that the rubber tends to roll against the sandpaper so some care must be exercised in this operation to maintain the ‘flat’ of the surface being sanded.
The picture below is of the modified 4-flat connecter plugged into the 4-square of the hitch of the Spyder Can-Am with an electrical tie added to maintain the connection in rough highway conditions.
this is exactly what is so great about Spyderlovers....so much help...complete with pics. Invaluable!
Gray Ghost
New member
I just replaced the square plug with a flat four. I was going to have to replace the nine pin on my trailer anyway so just did them all at the same time.
hyea:
Roadster Renovations
New member
Good job!
Magdave
New member
I would suggest the isolated harness my self easier install too. Big Bike parts PN 41-162. http://www.bigbikeparts.com/templates/product.aspx?ProductGuid=41-162&GroupGuid=16
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