Trailer rock guard - how important is it?

[gianfri]

I am about to buy an Aluma flat bed trailer for my 2014 Spyder RT. It comes without a rock guard, but one can be added for $270. My question is, how important is it? Logic tells me that motorcycles are built for the road, so being on a trailer should not be worse than riding on the road. I am also concerned about wind drag - the rock guard would be flat, no V-nose, and I’m pulling with a Ford Edge 4 cylinder engine, so I need to keep the effort from the engine as low as possible.

Would a cover to protect the Spyder while on the trailer an option?

What does everyone think?

Thanks!

 

[Bfromla]

Rock guards are helpful v nose or not. Yes spider made for road, at its height not the elevated height of trailer. A cover will flap in wind & scuff paint& plastic in multiple areas nojoke :lecturef_smilie: wind drag will be negligible unless like 10' above tow vehicle. Besides the rocks the tires may kick up & throw at trailer there are also the ones that get sucked in as you pass by others. & general road muck. Not a requirement but a good investment :thumbup:

 

[canamjhb]

If your Ford Edge has good mud/rock flaps then there is little chance it will kick rocks up at your trailered Spyder. Otherwise, without a trailer rock guard, your Spyder is a good target for anything kicked up by your Ford. And, I wouldn't use any cover on the bike. Even those made for trailering will cause scuff marks on the finiish..... Jim

 

[4 MARIE]

I trailer my spyder on an Aluma trailer also. I don't have a deflector on my trailer.
that being said, I also don't trailer down gravel roads, my truck has very good
mud flaps. But probably most importantly, I only trailer in dire circumstance. I would rather ryde.

 

[bushrat]

Here's my experience: I haul my 2017 F3L on a light aluminum trailer (350 #) much like an Aluma, but even more open, since I have only 3 panel tracks for the wheels (see pic). No rock guard. I have hauled with a Jeep Grand Cherokee and now with my 1500 RAM pick up. So far, no known rock or debris problems. I have hauled long distance, Interstate travel, Ontario to Florida, return. The location of my spare tire on trailer may help somewhat as protection. Also, the tongue length is fairly short, so most crap from road will hopefully strike (if it does) somewhat further back. However, a rock guard has been a strong consideration. If your Aluma has a solid bed, it is likely not much is going to hit your Spyder from underneath. For me, the risk is a bit greater, but so far, so good. The previous owner to me hauled his RT back and forth on same roads about 5 round trips; again, no issues. I do try to avoid unpaved surfaces. So, to me, rock guard or no rock guard is a matter of depth of one's wallet and/or comfort zone.

With respect to using a cover, I have done both - gone naked and gone 'all dressed'. Been through torrential rains, naked, and survived; gathered up some road dust, but it washed off. On the other hand, I also used a proper BRP trailering cover, once, but likely will pass on using again, unless the weather is absolutely horrific - ice, sleet, hail, etc. I tied my trailering cover on tight. They really fit like a glove, and are heavy duty quality. I watched it carefully the whole 1500 miles. There was no real flapping. The front of the Spyder had the cover 'plastered' to it the whole way from force of wind. When I arrived home and took the cover off, there were no scratches or scuffs that I could see along the front or side panels. It was only when I took a close look at the rear corners of my side bags that I noticed the red surface paint had been worn through, down to a black undercoat. Fortunately, the spots were few and only at corners, and only the size of a pencil eraser, but they are there, even today. Not a terribly serious blemish, but enough to discourage me from using this very expensive cover again, unless forced to. Even when I did use it, I found that the bike, under the cover, became coated in road dust, and still needed a good washing - as much as if I hadn't used the cover at all. Also, the movement of the cover at the rear of the Spyder caused enough friction to continuously bend the licence plate holder back and forth the whole trip. The constant bending caused the aluminum to snap. When I took the cover off, my number plate fell on the ground. I was lucky that it got caught up in the folds of the cover and didn't fall out along the 1500 mile journey.

Long and short... a rock guard if you must, but not an absolute necessity. Your Spyder can survive without a cover, but if you do use one, make certain it is meant for trailering, not loose, not just an everyday cover that will flap and likely shred. And, if you do use a trailering cover, know that you may be subjecting your Spyder's finish to unexpected 'forces' and 'frictions' that can leave marks.

 

[jaherbst]

The Aluma UT-10 comes with a rock guard and a toolbox.

Jack

 

[gianfri]

The Aluma UT-10 comes with a rock guard and a toolbox.

Jack

I’m looking at a 7210 and the guard is optional. Thank you.

 

[gianfri]

Here's my experience: I haul my 2017 F3L on a light aluminum trailer (350 #) much like an Aluma, but even more open, since I have only 3 panel tracks for the wheels (see pic). No rock guard. I have hauled with a Jeep Grand Cherokee and now with my 1500 RAM pick up. So far, no known rock or debris problems. I have hauled long distance, Interstate travel, Ontario to Florida, return. The location of my spare tire on trailer may help somewhat as protection. Also, the tongue length is fairly short, so most crap from road will hopefully strike (if it does) somewhat further back. However, a rock guard has been a strong consideration. If your Aluma has a solid bed, it is likely not much is going to hit your Spyder from underneath. For me, the risk is a bit greater, but so far, so good. The previous owner to me hauled his RT back and forth on same roads about 5 round trips; again, no issues. I do try to avoid unpaved surfaces. So, to me, rock guard or no rock guard is a matter of depth of one's wallet and/or comfort zone.

With respect to using a cover, I have done both - gone naked and gone 'all dressed'. Been through torrential rains, naked, and survived; gathered up some road dust, but it washed off. On the other hand, I also used a proper BRP trailering cover, once, but likely will pass on using again, unless the weather is absolutely horrific - ice, sleet, hail, etc. I tied my trailering cover on tight. They really fit like a glove, and are heavy duty quality. I watched it carefully the whole 1500 miles. There was no real flapping. The front of the Spyder had the cover 'plastered' to it the whole way from force of wind. When I arrived home and took the cover off, there were no scratches or scuffs that I could see along the front or side panels. It was only when I took a close look at the rear corners of my side bags that I noticed the red surface paint had been worn through, down to a black undercoat. Fortunately, the spots were few and only at corners, and only the size of a pencil eraser, but they are there, even today. Not a terribly serious blemish, but enough to discourage me from using this very expensive cover again, unless forced to. Even when I did use it, I found that the bike, under the cover, became coated in road dust, and still needed a good washing - as much as if I hadn't used the cover at all. Also, the movement of the cover at the rear of the Spyder caused enough friction to continuously bend the licence plate holder back and forth the whole trip. The constant bending caused the aluminum to snap. When I took the cover off, my number plate fell on the ground. I was lucky that it got caught up in the folds of the cover and didn't fall out along the 1500 mile journey.

Long and short... a rock guard if you must, but not an absolute necessity. Your Spyder can survive without a cover, but if you do use one, make certain it is meant for trailering, not loose, not just an everyday cover that will flap and likely shred. And, if you do use a trailering cover, know that you may be subjecting your Spyder's finish to unexpected 'forces' and 'frictions' that can leave marks.
View attachment 170237

Thank you for the detailed recount. I’m intrigued by the idea of a spare tire mount, perhaps even mounting it vertically for added protection.
Any thoughts about the wind drag effect of a rock guard?

 

[jaherbst]

Besides the rock guard and tool box the UT-10 Aluma also comes with a spare tire mounted in front of the rock guard. The spare tire on any single axle is extremely important. With a dual axle with a flat you can slow down and drive to the nearest tire repair or at least drive to a safe place to change or remove the tire.

Something to keep in mind when purchasing a trailer. Flats do happen. I have had several. On the dual axle I would remove the flat tire/wheel and continue on three at a much reduced speed until you come to the first tire repair shop. If you continue to drive without removing it it will be destroyed.

Jack

 

[jaherbst]

Just visited the Aluma site and it appears the UT-10 is now called the MC-210. It is 78" wide or the TK-1 which is only 63" wide. Both have 3500# torsion axles.

The big plus on both of these is the ramp which slides under neath the trailer and you do not have all the drap with the swing up ramp. I had a Feather lite with the swing up ramp and traded it for the UT-10 that has the ramp that slides under neath the trailer and the difference in gas mileage and drag was day and night.

I have the wider one as it can be used for hauling my Polaris Ranger and my Can Am Maverick also. The narrower TK-1 63" wide will only fit your Spyder or one motor cycle as the MC-210 can haul other ATV or UTV and two motorcycles. This would be the easiest to sell if the time comes.

Hope this helps, Jack

 

[gianfri]

Besides the rock guard and tool box the UT-10 Aluma also comes with a spare tire mounted in front of the rock guard. The spare tire on any single axle is extremely important. With a dual axle with a flat you can slow down and drive to the nearest tire repair or at least drive to a safe place to change or remove the tire.

Something to keep in mind when purchasing a trailer. Flats do happen. I have had several. On the dual axle I would remove the flat tire/wheel and continue on three at a much reduced speed until you come to the first tire repair shop. If you continue to drive without removing it it will be destroyed.

Jack

I do have a spare, just not a mount for it. I keep it in the car trunk.

 

[bushrat]

Thank you for the detailed recount. I’m intrigued by the idea of a spare tire mount, perhaps even mounting it vertically for added protection.
Any thoughts about the wind drag effect of a rock guard?

I think anytime you have a vertical surface on a trailer behind you there is likely to be some drag; it would take wind tunnel tests to determine just where and how much. However, I also believe, as Jack has suggested, that drag will likely be less with a stone guard (low at front of trailer) than that caused by a folded ramp (sticking up at rear). So, I think the added benefit of having a guard probably outweighs any loss caused by drag. One thing, though, that you need to be certain of is whether your Spyder RT will actually fit going up the ramp of your trailer. There has been discussion in another recent Forum thread about whether the ramp of an Aluma TK-1 will accommodate an RT; that TK-1 ramp is, I believe, only about 59" wide; the wheel track of the RT is wider. Thus, problems!!! It seems the F3 with its slightly narrower track will fit the TK-1 ramp. I think you'll find that's why other members here have chosen to go with Aluma trailer models other than than the TK-1. Also, you really only need a trailer long enough to hold the Spyder, unless you are planning to haul a second bike or bike and its trailer. Clearance between trailer wheel wells is also important. Mine has 67" clearance, as do some Alumas; that is plenty, as long as you are careful. So, check your Spyder measurements against the trailer's ramp width and space between wheel wells before deciding. Adding the stone guard up front probably won't cause quite as much drag as a vertically folded ramp at the rear. My trailer has tri-fold ramps on each side that lay flat. Ramps that slide underneath sure are nice, though!!! Hope this helps.

 

[gianfri]

I think anytime you have a vertical surface on a trailer behind you there is likely to be some drag; it would take wind tunnel tests to determine just where and how much. However, I also believe, as Jack has suggested, that drag will likely be less with a stone guard (at front of trailer) than that caused by a folded up ramp (at rear of trailer). So, I think the added benefit of having a guard probably outweighs any loss caused by drag. One thing, though, that you need to be certain of is whether your Spyder RT will actually fit going up the ramp of your trailer. There has been discussion in another recent post about whether the Aluma TK-1 will accommodate an RT; that TK-1 ramp is, I believe, only about 59" wide; the wheel track of the RT is wider. Thus, problems!!! It seems the F3 with its slightly narrower track will fit the TK-1 ramp. I think you'll find that's why other members here have chosen to go with Aluma models other than than the TK-1. Also, you really only need a trailer long enough to hold the Spyder, unless you are planning to haul a second bike or bike and its trailer. Clearance between trailer wheel wells is also important. Mine has 67" clearance, as do some Alumas; that is plenty, as long as you are careful. So, check your Spyder measurements against the trailer's ramp width and space between wheel wells before deciding. Adding the stone guard up front probably won't cause quite as much drag as a vertically folded ramp at the rear. My trailer has tri-fold ramps on each side that lay flat. Hope this helps.

I did not realize a folded up ramp would cause more wind drag than a solid surface like a rock guard. One never stops learning, I guess.

Good point about fitting the Spyder on the trailer. I had read the TK-1 would not fit, and I have an MC10 (for my previous motorcycle) that is way too narrow. Even the MC210 (for two motorcycles) has a ramp barely wide enough. I did go to the dealer and loaded up the Spyder RT on the trailer I am considering. The ramp leaves about 2 inches on each side, and the length is just about right. Ground clearance is very close, but sufficient. That's one thing that attracts me to this trailer (Aluma 7210 bifold) - it is just the right size, and very light. And it is last year's model so I get a good deal.

 

[Peter Aawen]

One thing to be aware of if you DO get to drive much on gravel or dirt roads or even on newish chip seal with a trailer sporting a stone guard, something that many here in Aust have learned the hard way is that stone guards can bounce stones off the front of the trailer & send them flying forwards into the back of the tow vehicle with considerable force!! Dents & stone chips are the least of it too; if you are towing with a wagon or sedan or basically anything that doesn't have 8ft or more of tray or tub between the trailer's stone guard & the rear-most window on the tug vehicle, you really need to fit a perspex cover over said window or at least stretch a horizontal 'stone catcher' made of something like shade cloth between the back of the tug vehicle & the front upright edge of the trailer! :thumbup:

I used to keep my kids occupied on the frequent long trips we made travelling Outback roads by getting each of them to count the number of tow vehicles we passed that had a specific brand of 'beer carton replacements or covers' for their back windows - a different beer brand for each kid drawn by various means, highest count wins the day..... Worked well, too, at least until the kids worked out that each State generally had their own particular 'favourite beer', so if we were driving in Vic, then the kid who was counting VB (VB = Victoria Bitter) window replacements or covers would likely count the highest number; but in QLD, since more QLD'ers drank XXXX it scored better (XXXX = Four-X beer - rips into ya going in, rips outta ya coming out! :shocked: ) & the beer of choice in WA back then was Swan Lager (fluffy black ducks) so once they worked that out they'd try to draw the brand appropriate for the State, & that could cause a little conflict..... Even so, this was a much safer game than 'Punch Buggy', where the first to see a VW Beetle or Buggy got to deliver a free punch to their target of choice!

Anyhow, games aside, just be wary of using trailer stone guards without protecting the rear &/or rear windows of your tug vehicle if you expect to drive much on unsealed or new chip seal roads! While a stone guard should keep your Spyder unblemished, the deflected stones can richochet off metal stone guards with great force & so can do a lot of damage to the tug! :2thumbs:

 

[bushrat]

... just be wary of using trailer stone guards without protecting the rear &/or rear windows of your tug vehicle if you expect to drive much on unsealed or new chip seal roads! While a stone guard should keep your Spyder unblemished, the deflected stones can ricochet off metal stone guards with great force & so can do a lot of damage to the tug! :2thumbs:

Thanks for the 'heads-up' Peter. This (reverse stone chip damage) is something I had never even been aware of, nor given any thought to. Good to know!!! Also appreciated is the 'consumer's guide' to regional Aussie brews; may come in handy someday.