What tools are needed?

[vdoman]

About to receive my new F3 LTD SS and already have a few farkles waiting to be added. What I don't have are tools. Not a handy guy. Is there a tool set or any recommendations of a "starter" tool set I should purchase to at least help me to start tearing it down the moment I get it? The things I want to do are just remove panels, tighten anything loose. Install Ram Mount on handlebars, install some light kits etc. NOT engine work, I wouldn't trust myself! :roflblack: Thanks in advance

 

[Nyparrothead]

A good torx set and a socket set will let you do just about anything you need

mark

 

[Netminder]

As well as the above, I like having a cordless screwdriver and a panel clip remover.

 

[Chupaca]

Tools...!!

I have way too many tools and have been prohibited from visiting any store that carries tools. ..:roflblack::roflblack: check harbor freight, sears etc for some starter tool sets. They have some pretty nice and very complete sets...:thumbup:

 

[vdoman]

Thanks everyone. I assume the tools are metric correct?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Myersd802003]

Yes metric. I picked up some from Harbor Freight. They are priced good for a starter set.

 

[Bfromla]

Thanks everyone. I assume the tools are metric correct?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Correct however there are some newer universal socket & wrenches that are nice, if you are going to continue to try handy work:thumbup: .i would keep theme as a home shop set & manage a separate tool bag to keep on the bike. Careful as tools can be addictive too:firstplace::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::2thumbs:

 

[Grandpot]

Tools on the road

The advice everyone is giving is good.

Suggestion: When you get the tool kits, go around the Spyder and match up the specific sockets and other tools that will fit all the fasteners that you would be comfortable removing, then put them in a bag on the bike. You'll be surprised that there really aren't too many different ones. This way, if you have to work on it on the road, you'll be ready.

Also, have an assortment of fuses.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Duct Tape, and WD-40...:shocked:

:joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke:

 

[spyderCodes]

This and the proper bit gets the tupperware off fast

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS41-2A...207836&sr=8-15&keywords=bosch+cordless+driver

 

[jneg2]

I have way too many tools and have been prohibited from visiting any store that carries tools. ..:roflblack::roflblack: check harbor freight, sears etc for some starter tool sets. They have some pretty nice and very complete sets...:thumbup:

Be wary about Harbor Freight by mail. I remember waiting ages for anything I ordered from them!!

 

[iceworm]

I was never a fan of Harbor freight until recently. However their high end hand tools are pretty good. and they say they are lifetime garanteed. don't know if they stand by that, haven't tried yet

I bought their aluminium RV lift and two Al shorty jack stands. (Swaybar job) All worked well.

Adding/agreeing to the other posters recomendations:
1/4" drive socket set (six point if you can find one)
1/4 drive deep sockets (six point)
1/4 drive extensions (3", 10")
3/8 drive socket set (six point)
3/8 drive extensions (3", 10", 10" wobbly -not a universal, a wobbly end)

I tend to buy high end ratchets. they really work better than the ones that come with the kits

Torx set (HF has a nice 1/4 drive set that are about 2"+ long)
Combination wrenches (I like having two sets - one normal, one gear head)

As mentioned, electric drivers are damned handy. A 1/2 chuck will take the socket end of a 1/4 drive extension and the HF torx sockets. And get a hex to 1/4 drive adapter.

Low rider creeper (wheels up on the sides)
Roll around low stool
Best knee pads you can get (took me about three tries to find ones that work well - turned out to not be the expensive ones)
This stuff is cause I'm old. I don't like to crawl around on the floor any more.

I tend to get whatever tools it takes to make a job go easier (as long as I can afford it - can't justify a Buds readout yet Having the right tool really makes jobs go easier. If I need a specific tool, rather than make do, and I can get it it local, I'll do it in a heart beat.

However, keep in mind my lovely bride considers me way past freakin nutz about buying tools (as well as many other issues)

Just a suggestion: Other than the basics, don't buy all at once. Rather, for every new job, add what you need for that job.

I don't know if it is true, but I highly suspect that being handy is about half having the right tools and suppress the fear. The other half is "ask, read, wrench". Oh yeah - get the manuals, so you are not guessing about how something comes apart. and all the videos, detailed instructions on here are amazing

Gear head philosophy per the worm

 

[ABQSpyder]

Torque wrench!
I have one for oil plugs and another for general.
Don't go cheep on this tool.

 

[iceworm]

Tools for electrical

Use crimp connectors if you can. They are superior to soldered.

Before all the solder thugs jump in, this is not from me, this is from the airplane industry. A good crimped connection (right tool, right lug) is a gas tight connection.

Get a ratcheting crimper ($60 mail order - terminaltown.com )
Use mil-spec nylon lugs/splices. You will have to go to an electrical supply store to get them and the price will boggle the mind compared to auto store. HB, Lowes don't carry them. Although TerminalTowm prices are pretty good

Unless you are broken down and half to get going, do not use auto store lugs, splices. They will not hold up.

If you have to use soldered because of space constraints, a lap joint works as well as a Western Electric knot and is is a lot smaller. Yes solder is a structural material. Use two layers of shrink if you can - one long, one short. Use as small a diameter shrink as will fit. An inexpensive electric heat gun works much better than a lighter for the shrink.

I'm not a fan of soldering guns, but they will work. Think using Bowie where an exacto would be easier. Oh yeah - small diameter rosin core solder. And if a joint at all looks cold - take it apart, clean, do it again.

No Fear (mild discomfort is okay and probably a sign of good sense) - Wench on

So say yeah - the worm

 

[spyderCodes]

Use crimp connectors if you can. They are superior to soldered.

Before all the solder thugs jump in, this is not from me, this is from the airplane industry. A good crimped connection (right tool, right lug) is a gas tight connection.

Get a ratcheting crimper ($60 mail order - terminaltown.com )
Use mil-spec nylon lugs/splices. You will have to go to an electrical supply store to get them and the price will boggle the mind compared to auto store. HB, Lowes don't carry them. Although TerminalTowm prices are pretty good

Unless you are broken down and half to get going, do not use auto store lugs, splices. They will not hold up.

If you have to use soldered because of space constraints, a lap joint works as well as a Western Electric knot and is is a lot smaller. Yes solder is a structural material. Use two layers of shrink if you can - one long, one short. Use as small a diameter shrink as will fit. An inexpensive electric heat gun works much better than a lighter for the shrink.

I'm not a fan of soldering guns, but they will work. Think using Bowie where an exacto would be easier. Oh yeah - small diameter rosin core solder. And if a joint at all looks cold - take it apart, clean, do it again.

No Fear (mild discomfort is okay and probably a sign of good sense) - Wench on

So say yeah - the worm

Good recomendations 'cept one point, you guessed it crimp on connectors.

I think you'll find a fair amount of difference in both the connectors and connector crimp tools that are approved for aircraft use and those available at Harbor Freight.

 

[iceworm]

Yes - Torque wrench (s)

Absolutely agree. I even use a torque wench for the automotive lug nuts. Yes I am aware some consider this past borderline OCD.

If the manual lists a torque spec - use it

I don't what the prices are these days - I bought mine thirty years ago. Pay what you have to to get decent (not necessarily the best). definitely as much as you can afford.

Recommend a 3/8 drive inch-lb and a 3/8 drive ft-lb - click type.

I recall my 3/8 ft-lb goes up to about 120. I recall my 1/2 drive goes to 200. More than that I tend to go with a long handled breaker bar with a 2' pipe cheater, plant both feet and give it all I got. (2 5/16 ball on a hitch stub was 275 as I recall - didn't come off in 4000 miles of Alcan, Canada, CONUS, so probably enough

 

[justcalldon]

I found the best tool to get is a Credit Card with a High Limit!


Justcalldon

 

[vdoman]

:shocked: Duct Tape, and WD-40...:shocked:

:joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke::joke:

Already have plenty of them!!! :clap: But geezzzzzzzzzz, these tools come w/ instructions????? :roflblack:

 

[Bob Denman]

Harbor Freight Tools...

I was actually able to sneak in a set of metric wrenches; the ones that have sort of a "ratchet- setup", at one end. :yes:
The Saleslady reminded me that they come with a Lifetime guarantee; so now, I'm planning on living forever!

 

[iceworm]

*%^&*% computer bat died - re-typing, shortening.

Good recomendations 'cept one point, you guessed it crimp on connectors.

I think you'll find a fair amount of difference in both the connectors and connector crimp tools that are approved for aircraft use and those available at Harbor Freight.

SC -
You lost me. Don't know what HF sells. Maybe check my post again. I did.

And after re-reading I see I was not completely clear on the context of the reference to aircraft industry. The intended context is, the aircraft industry considers a crimped connection is superior to a soldered connection. FAA AC 43.13-1B agrees. And if after re-reading my posts you're still raising your eyebrows, here are a couple of references on connectors and crimpers:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf

The articles are specifically aimed at amateur built aircraft. For those that want to tell me, "we are not building airplanes - this stuff is too much money" - well, you are installing a $400 ATR and you are squawking about $6 in connectors? I personally think that similar principles apply - in particular, vibration, high reliability

My Terminal town reference is out dated - it's been a couple of years.
These guys look pretty good for aircraft mil-spec:
http://www.bandc.aero/electrical-terminals-splices.aspx

Although, today, not building an airplane, I would go with the local electrical supply store, AMP, Stakon or similar - solid/soldered barrel, insulation sleeve ....

Auto store type connectors are out.

Read my posts again. Read the references. You still think I'm screwed up, you would be in a long list of good company - wrong, but in good company . Still, tell me why. I'll be listening. I'm plenty old, but I do my damnedest to not get stuck

This and pervious posts:
Just personal opinion - lot of years doing this kind of stuff on high reliability required machinery, coupled with plenty of research. I likely have an informed opinion. Still, plenty of others have a way different spec (I won't say, "lesser") and often seem to do fine - and sometimes not so fine.