I have a 2010 RT standard shift, over the last year I have noticed that getting it into neutral or reverse was getting harder and taking longer. But now it will not go into Reverse at all. Clutch lever and oil levels are fine and it shifts smoothly when riding, it's just the reverse. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what it could be?
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will not go into reverse
- Thread starter tflatt
- Start date
Gear Position Sensor, or maybe the clutch itself?!? :dontknow:
Have you ever got any codes when it's misbehaving?? :dontknow:
Have you ever got any codes when it's misbehaving?? :dontknow:
youngers
New member
tfatt make sure you have enough fluids in the clutch reservoir , ( when you take off the cap , is the rubber boot " on the cap " hanging down or is it folded into its self ? ( rubber boot is a diaphragm operation , it keeps the pressure in the lines as fluid is getting lower ) your cycle might be in need of internal O-rings , in the clutch housing , don`t freak out , it is an easy operation , it is getting all the Tupperware off and access to the clutch piston... 
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youngers
New member
this goes well with a second pair of eyes and hands ! but it really isn`t that hard to do , the rubber and brake fluid might have eaten a groove in the clutch piston housing , use very "very fine " sand paper and emery cloth to polish out , then flush with brake fluid ... ( I had a 2012 that this was the same deal , 1st gear was getting hard to hit , then reverse totally went out , the rubber O-rings just were worn out ) when you get it back together , will shift like a dream ! FOOT NOTE : read up on the "not moving the internal parts of the clutch that are the next assembly behind the piston , do not worry they will not fall out onto the floor , but the screw shaft in the center tightens and loosens the clutch plates that are behind the piston housing !
youngers
New member
hey tfatt ! do you happen to see fluid in the front part of the floor pan , under the front engine area ? ( use a flash light , shine under the front section , if you see some fluid ( will not be much but will cause you to panic , ) this will most likely from the clutch o-ring fail , the oil will drip out of the weep hole in the outside cover of the clutch piston housing area
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Chupaca
New member
Bu
When my RS 2012 did this it was the clutch fluid and I had to replace the o-rings in the slave. I also had an issue with the adjustment to the reverse cable if you have to pull the lever to get to into reverse and the third issue I have seen is the shift lever itself being loose . :thumbup:
When my RS 2012 did this it was the clutch fluid and I had to replace the o-rings in the slave. I also had an issue with the adjustment to the reverse cable if you have to pull the lever to get to into reverse and the third issue I have seen is the shift lever itself being loose . :thumbup:
SpyderAnn01
Active member
Peter does the MANUAL trans. have a Position Sensor ???? …. Mikehyea:
Yes it does. I think his issue is with the left hand controls, the actual reverse button. If it is a 10 it probably has 9 years of crud built up.
SpyderAnn01
Active member
Did you check the relay?
Gwolf
Well-known member
Not sure your model and year.......... on mine the RFB (Right Fuse Box), relay R1 is the reverse actuator relay. Find that in the correct service manual for your bike and run the electrical tests on it. Instructions in the shop manual. It should be fused through F7 if it is the same as later models.
If you don't have the shop manual, you should get one.
If you don't have the shop manual, you should get one.
Gwolf
Well-known member
If it has power and something is stopping the actuator or friction is making it difficult to move the actuator, it will still not be functioning. Collected crud, metal scarring, wear allowing misalignment, could all stop it from functioning as it should, even if it has power on it.
cptjam
Registered User
I’m thinking the switch failed, and burned up the actuator. Check the circuit, if it is hot, press the switch and measure voltage. If no change, switch is bad. Pull the fuse, measure voltage. If none, replace switch. If the actuator still won’t work, replace it. You might be able to repair those components, but IDK. Take them apart and see. If you can’t fix them, toss them, after.
You might try looking at Cheap cycle parts . com they have diagrams for most everything there.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
IF, and I don't know how big an if it is, the 2010 wiring is basically the same as the 2014 here's what you're looking at. The hot wire, or 12 volt power, coming to the relay is hot all the time. This the norm for Can Am and Japanese systems. The relay is actuated by completing the ground circuit which is done by the ECM. The ECM completes the ground circuit in response to a CAN BUS signal from the left switch cluster. My first thought is the relay in the fuse box is bad. Pull another one from another spot and plug it in and see if you get it to work. If not, then the switch module in the handlebar has a problem. That's not an easy fix since that unit is a printed circuit board with bubble type contacts. You may have to replace the switch module. There is no feasible way, I don't think, to bypass or fix the contact for the reverse button. It's possible, but extremely unlikely, that the ECM has a problem.
Another way to verify that the problem is either the handlebar switch cluster or the ECM is to connect a test light to a 12 volt source and ground it to the ground connection of the relay. The relay will have to be removed. If the test light lights up when you push the reverse button then you know the ECM is completing the ground circuit properly and the relay is bad. Relay contacts do go bad.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I was just looking at the parts diagrams. Man, you've got to get it apart! A new replacement switch module is not available!
The two halves of the module have to come apart completely since that's how they're assembled in the first place.Have you done the test light procedure I mention above?
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