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Yuasa Battery Model Number -- a distinction without a difference?

bhern

Member
My battery (a Yuasa YTX24HL-BS installed when I had the Spyder in for maintenance 3 years back) gave up the ghost today; no complaint there, as we're building a new home and it's been exposed to the temperature extremes more than usual without tender/maintainer.

So I'm looking for another to replace it, and am seeing a reasonable price on Amazon for one that matches the spec in every way, except the model number is different.

In my Spyder currently is a YUAM7250H model number. Here's the one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM6250H-YTX24HL-BS-Battery/dp/B000WJX2PY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2S62Q3F8FCI6Y

Highly rated product, Prime-eligible, only $119.99, everything looks good except for the model number, a YUAM6250H instead of the YUAM7250H.

Should I care? Is this an slightly older model and that's why it's lower priced? (Since it's user-activated, I'm fine if that's the only implication.)

Thanks in advance to the wiser minds who can clear this up for me.
 
I may be wrong but the -BS is you add the acid not factory installed. BS is not OEM that came with the spyder. I believe the OEM was factory sealed YUAM7250H YTX24HL. Only place I’ve seen them in stock is summit racing. As a side note, the BS version is always cheaper than the factory sealed. At least for sleds and SXS.
 
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I may be wrong but the -BS is you add the acid not factory installed. BS is not OEM that came with the spyder. I believe the OEM was factory sealed YUAM7250H YTX24HL. Only place I’ve seen them in stock is summit racing. As a side note, the BS version is always cheaper than the factory sealed. At least for sleds and SXS.

That is correct, and thanks for your input, because it caused me to check something I overlooked. The battery in my Spyder is NOT a YTX24HL-BS as I described, but a YTX24HL, period. Therefore, it must be that the YUAM7250H model number is the factory sealed YTX24HL, and the YUAM6250 is the YTX24HL-BS model, which is what I want anyway.

Sorry for the idiotic oversight on my part, and thanks for helping me clear it up. Battery ordered.
 
That is correct, and thanks for your input, because it caused me to check something I overlooked. The battery in my Spyder is NOT a YTX24HL-BS as I described, but a YTX24HL, period...

Thanks to the atrocious writing and editing of the 2014 RT Operators Guide, the specification of the battery, pg. 162 FWIW, is listed as Yuasa YTX24HL-BS, when in fact the original battery in the vehicle was a YTX24HL, which is what I installed when the original gave up the ghost. I note in the 2017 Op Guide the battery is listed as Maintenance Free which is about as worthless as that could be, but the Nominal rating, 21 Ah, and Charging rate 2A are the same ad the '14 Op Guide. BRP writers and editors don't get better as the RT models age.
 
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I prefer a battery that comes with acid to be added. They are fresh and have not been deteriorating in unknown storage saturations. Done correctly and properly charged the 1st time can give you a much longer service life.
 
My battery (a Yuasa YTX24HL-BS installed when I had the Spyder in for maintenance 3 years back) gave up the ghost today; no complaint there, as we're building a new home and it's been exposed to the temperature extremes more than usual without tender/maintainer.

So I'm looking for another to replace it, and am seeing a reasonable price on Amazon for one that matches the spec in every way, except the model number is different.

In my Spyder currently is a YUAM7250H model number. Here's the one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM6250H-YTX24HL-BS-Battery/dp/B000WJX2PY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2S62Q3F8FCI6Y

Highly rated product, Prime-eligible, only $119.99, everything looks good except for the model number, a YUAM6250H instead of the YUAM7250H.

Should I care? Is this an slightly older model and that's why it's lower priced? (Since it's user-activated, I'm fine if that's the only implication.)

Thanks in advance to the wiser minds who can clear this up for me.

From everything I've heard about Batteries, they have a very long shelf life with NO acid in them..... I like the BS version because I know it's fresh and that the initial charge has been done correctly ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
From everything I've heard about Batteries, they have a very long shelf life with NO acid in them..... I like the BS version because I know it's fresh and that the initial charge has been done correctly ..... Mike :thumbup:

It is a bit of a hassle and you need to take some care. But neither is it rocket science. And I enjoy the satisfaction of knowing I'm getting the best bang for the buck possible with a led acid battery. Having said that. I'm more and more leaning towards replacement with lithium equivalents.

Check this out.... Very impressive. The Spyder is very voltage sensitive. If it falls below a certain voltage during start-up (or at any time, for that matter) you'll start getting codes. Of course, once it gets bad enough, it will go into limp mode or not start at all. Pretty standard fare for any electric start vehicle.

There is a short version of the video near the top. And a longer, much more detailed version further down in the article. The advantages of lithium include; Great Weight Savings. Maximum delivery of cranking amps in almost any situation. Cold affects Lead Acid severely. Not so much with Lithium. Very Low Discharge Rate. Better Longevity. The big CON? Price is usually quite a bit higher. But price has been steadily coming down over time.
https://battlebornbatteries.com/lead-is-dead-white-paper-study/
 
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It is a bit of a hassle and you need to take some care. But neither is it rocket science. And I enjoy the satisfaction of knowing I'm getting the best bang for the buck possible with a led acid battery. Having said that. I'm more and more leaning towards replacement with lithium equivalents.

Check this out.... Very impressive. The Spyder is very voltage sensitive. If it falls below a certain voltage during start-up (or at any time, for that matter) you'll start getting codes. Of course, once it gets bad enough, it will go into limp mode or not start at all. Pretty standard fare for any electric start vehicle.

There is a short version of the video near the top. And a longer, much more detailed version further down in the article. The advantages of lithium include; Great Weight Savings. Maximum delivery of cranking amps in almost any situation. Cold affects Lead Acid severely. Not so much with Lithium. Very Low Discharge Rate. Better Longevity. The big CON? Price is usually quite a bit higher. But price has been steadily coming down over time.
https://battlebornbatteries.com/lead-is-dead-white-paper-study/

The battery in my 22 RTL is AGM. How is this different to a regular lead/acid battery ? Lithium seems the best way to go I would think, Coming from a bass fishing background the lithium batteries in my bass boat for the trolling motor made a huge difference and would hold a charge so much longer, I think they actually charged up faster too !
 
The battery in my 22 RTL is AGM. How is this different to a regular lead/acid battery ? Lithium seems the best way to go I would think, Coming from a bass fishing background the lithium batteries in my bass boat for the trolling motor made a huge difference and would hold a charge so much longer, I think they actually charged up faster too !

I don't think " lead acid " batteries can be sealed ( ie. leak-proof ) ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
I don't think " lead acid " batteries can be sealed ( ie. leak-proof ) ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

Not all Lead Acid batteries are 'Sealed'. But the Yuasa batteries which come with the Spyder are 'Sealed' or 'Leak Proof'. AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) is simply a hybrid lead acid battery. Instead of just lead plates in an acid solution. They have a glass mat material inserted between the plates which gives the acid better contact and conductivity with the lead plates. Otherwise, it's the same lead and acid process.

Current Lithium batteries are sealed but do have a liquid electrolyte solution which can leak if the battery is damaged. This is why you can't fly a lithium battery because the reduced atmospheric pressure can cause the seal to rupture and all kinds of bad things can happen. They are working towards a solid state lithium battery. But as far as I know. There isn't anything that works well yet.
 
My battery is 3yr 3mo old, is identical to the OP specs, and also needs replacing now. I have found this one a mile from me...

(picture - white case & black top)
Super Start Power Sport Battery Group Size BTX24HL AGM

Part #: ETX18L
Line: SSB

☆☆☆☆☆ ☆☆☆☆☆ 4.3 out of 5 stars. Read reviews for Super Start Power Sport Battery Group Size BTX24HL AGM

Fits Can-Am Spyder RT Limited (SE6)
$115.99 Each
<end copy>

Available only as fully charged and factory-sealed. But-- $116 compared to $220 for the 3-year Yuasa.

Reviews were pretty good. Here's one:

· 2 months ago
Super Start Motorcycle Battery

Lasts as long as the higher priced batteries . Just maintain it as you should. This is my third motorcycle battery in 14 years.
Recommends this product? ✔ Yes
<end>

Battery life really varies, and seems to be just the luck of the draw. Comments?
 
:coffee:... Just a little Heads-up.
April is 'Check Out Battery' Month.
I have a Yuasa Battery that I purchased from Amazon last April 2022. It was a good choice for me, and I wanted to let Spyder Forum Friends Know.

YUAM 7250H
YTX24HL
YTX24HL-BS

I recommend this Battery. So check out your Battery Health. Battery problems on a Road Trip is no fun for me.
 
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The best by many who’ve tried all kinds is the Yuasa YTX24HL

The -BS means Bottle Supplied. Both batteries are the same but one comes filled and the other comes with a cartridge that you simply turn upside down and push down breaking the seals. The battery fills, you put the cover strip on, and it’s sealed. Put either battery on a trickle charger for a day or so, then install.
 
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