• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

2018 RTL busted bolt help

Flamewinger

New member
I was installing a BRP belt tensioner with Lamonster pully from Spyderpops. I got the instructions from the BRP web site and it indicates 137 lbf*in and I didn't think and went to tighten the top bolt to 137 foot pounds and the head broke. I was able to drill down into it and get an EasyOut to grip but the tightness of the bolt and the thread locker was too much for the EasyOut and the head broke. So now I have chipped as much of the EasyOut but can't get it all and the drill bit won't bite. I tried heating the bolt and using a left handed drill bit but that doesn't work either. SO . . .

I want to remove the part the floorboards are mounted to and take it to a friend that can get it out. Can I just unbolt it or do I need to support the engine or some part of the bike while it's out? Notice the difference in torque values, both say 15.5 N*m but the instructions have 137 lbf*in and the service manual shows 22.

BRP Instructions ---------------- Broken bolt

IMG_2157.jpg IMG_2158.jpg

MY online Service manual which doesn't show how to replace the belt. (or I can't find it)

Screen Shot 2019-08-07 at 4.57.15 PM.jpg
 
Flame, are you confusing lb-ft with lb-in? 137 lb-in torque is about 11.5 lb-ft torque.

I didn't see the "in" and over tightened it. Now I want to remove the part and take it to a machine shop to get the broken bolt out. Not sure how to remove the part that holds the floorboards.
 
OK, I just looked at a larger image and see the 3 bolts do seem to hold it all to the frame. Didn't think it was so easy.
 
OK, I just looked at a larger image and see the 3 bolts do seem to hold it all to the frame. Didn't think it was so easy.

It's not that easy. There are two M6 (10mm wrench) screws through the frame which screw into the casting. If you are lucky and live in a dry area they will be easily removed but if you ride in rain they will very likely be seized into the aluminium. They're very soft steel and sheer off as soon as you look at them. The holes in the frame through which they fit are not a good alignment and getting the screws back into their threads can be seriously awkward - leave all the screws slack when you refit the side so that you can have a bit of wriggle room. Also, fitting 6mm studs into those holes and using a nut and washer rather than the screws will make the job easier for refitting and the next time you need to remove the panel.
 
The best way to remove these bolts from drilling the biggest possible hole in the center, leaving just a little bit of wall and taking a turn to the left of Proto, is the best way to gently deflect it.

FlyBoy2121





I was installing a BRP belt tensioner with Lamonster pully from Spyderpops. I got the instructions from the BRP web site and it indicates 137 lbf*in and I didn't think and went to tighten the top bolt to 137 foot pounds and the head broke. I was able to drill down into it and get an EasyOut to grip but the tightness of the bolt and the thread locker was too much for the EasyOut and the head broke. So now I have chipped as much of the EasyOut but can't get it all and the drill bit won't bite. I tried heating the bolt and using a left handed drill bit but that doesn't work either. SO . . .

I want to remove the part the floorboards are mounted to and take it to a friend that can get it out. Can I just unbolt it or do I need to support the engine or some part of the bike while it's out? Notice the difference in torque values, both say 15.5 N*m but the instructions have 137 lbf*in and the service manual shows 22.

BRP Instructions ---------------- Broken bolt

View attachment 174695 View attachment 174696

MY online Service manual which doesn't show how to replace the belt. (or I can't find it)

View attachment 174697
 
Thanks. I found the extra 2 bolts and got the part off. They were no problem getting out. (other than getting at them from behind). I drilled down into the bolt from the bottom and we were able to punch out the broken EasyOut head. Used a long extractor and heated the area around the hole while easing it out. We found that heating it was necessary the whole time we were extracting it. Soon as we stopped heating, the bolt wouldn't move.

When installing it back on the bike, I got all the bolts started before tightening them. Not easy as it is heavy and holding it while getting a bolt started was tricky. Then I was able to do the belt tensioner install. Torquing the bolt to 11 ftlbs. (Had to get help from another Spyder rider as it needed more strength than I had) Thanks Rich.

Still don't understand the difference in torque values. Instructions say 15.5 N.m 137 flb.in but the service manual has 15.5 N.m and 22 flb.in.
 
Back
Top