Meaning what exactly, Doug? Talk to me like I don't know anything. Because I've forgotten all my electronics training.
Just tested the 5a that I thought was blown as well as the 10a I replaced it with. Both good according to my multimeter: both cause the meter to beep, not showing an open line. The blue light in the USB port will briefly illuminate when the key is switched on and then go off. Turning the key on after that will not illuminate the dash.
I'm stumped.
Hey Ken. I think we need to reset. To begin with, you have been referring to this power connection that you used as GPS2. I just assumed that you were calling the 12v accessory connection a GPS connection, as that's what most people use it for. However, there is a dedicated GPS power connection on the right side by the gas tank ground bolt, that was used for the BRP GPS accessory harness. Its purpose is to integrate a GPS into the bike's power and audio system. On earlier years, that power comes from the radio. I don’t have a specific 2018 drawing, but there’s no reason they would change that. So, if you have tapped into that connection on the right side, that is absolutely the
wrong place to try to run your Slingmods accessory from. Not enough power capacity.
So, if that's the case, or even if it's not the case, disconnect the wires that you connected, power the bike up, and let's see if everything still works, including your cluster display and radio. If something isn't working, just refer to page 143 in your Operator's Guide and check the fuses in your right and left side fuse boxes.
The accessory power - what is listed as DC Plugs in your fuse box - that you need to be using based on your power requirements, is either the one up front behind the rubber plug in the frunk, or the one on the left side under the seat behind the left side panel. You need to remove the panel. That one has been historically hard to find. It's nestled in the harness covering with a tie wrap and just maybe has some caps on the ends. You've got to dig for it. That one, and the one up front, are the two that are powered from fuse F6 in the right fuse box. The connection up front is easier to see if you remove the battery. Personally, I'd just use that one as it's easier to find.
Once you tap into the correct connection, then that 12v power will be switched on or off with the key if F6 is installed and F7 is not installed. It is powered up all the time is F7 is installed and F6 is not installed. In the right side box. The fuse combination just directs power to the accessory circuit from two different places - either the switch or directly from the battery. You never have both fuses installed at the same time.
Put everything back together and was sitting on the RT fiddling with the phone mount and USB cable. To that point, the blue lights were lit and it did charge my phone when I hooked it up. Attempted to start the engine and that's when the 10a fuse blew. I THINK. Troubleshooting...probably my wiring is suspect.
