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2018 RTL GPS circuit. Blew a fuse? Can anyone give me a pointer towards which one?

Snowbelt Spyder said:
Yep, that’s the vent that goes on the rear of the headlight assembly. According to the parts diagram, each light assembly has two of them.
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Didn't want to remove them again but I'll have a look.

Snowbelt Spyder said:
If you were using the connection on the right side, then that power comes directly from the radio power supply. Thus, it is very limited and not able to supply your needs. If your bike does not have a 12v power plug already installed up front, then the ends of that accessory power harness should have these connectors on them. See pic. You can then just buy the other half of it and push the connectors together. Things have been hot up here on and off but not like you folks.

View attachment 256082
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like a garden variety spade connector with a 90?
 
OK, those GVSCers are on the same circuit as the GPS power on the left side behind the fuel tank. You will notice it says sw power or 12V always on along right side. That would be F6 SW or F7 12V always,

GPS Power 1.jpg
 
Suffice to say, I'm gonna go with the frunk circuit which had been the original plan. I only chose the GPS2 because I saw a guy hook up a Garmin to it and it appeared to be less trouble than fishing around that frontend for leads that I hear don't have very much slack. We shall see what transpires tomorrow morning when the garage is 'cooler'. ;)
 
Poked around in the battery cavity and could feel/see nothing that looked right. Bear in mind I have rheumatoid arthritis and my extremities aren't as 'prehensile' as they once were. The only two wires resembling what is shown in pics I've seen have the right angle spade connectors but are connected to what looks like a solenoid to me. Doubt those are it; as I understand it, the user circuit is free. I'm sure it's in the area but I had no luck. It would be easy to go straight to the battery but my preference would be for a switched connection.

It's off to the nearest dealer in Austin for me; don't think I want to kill myself trying to swap out the fog lights too. Thanks to you folks for the info. I know when to cry uncle. :)
 
RetiredBikerKenJ said:
Poked around in the battery cavity and could feel/see nothing that looked right. Bear in mind I have rheumatoid arthritis and my extremities aren't as 'prehensile' as they once were. The only two wires resembling what is shown in pics I've seen have the right angle spade connectors but are connected to what looks like a solenoid to me. Doubt those are it; as I understand it, the user circuit is free. I'm sure it's in the area but I had no luck. It would be easy to go straight to the battery but my preference would be for a switched connection.

It's off to the nearest dealer in Austin for me; don't think I want to kill myself trying to swap out the fog lights too. Thanks to you folks for the info. I know when to cry uncle. :)
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Don't give up, Snoking and Coach Bob to the rescue.

 
BTW, I have never installed LEDs in the fog lights on any of my three 2018's, figuring the effort was not worth it. LEDs in the headlights on high beam do an excellent job making others aware of your presence on the road.
 
Gave CoachBob another look. Noticed he was reaching high for the wires. I had been looking and reaching low. Stuck my fingers thru the round hole away from the battery and felt soft rubber. :oops: A little fiddling with some needle nose pliers and pulled the wires, boot and all thru the hole. Now I need to run to Ace and fetch some 18ga wire and the appropriate connectors and then it'll be like Curtis from Oz says, 'job done'.

Thanks for the little nudge(s), Snoking1127 and SnowbeltSpyder.
 
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