2014 Spyder RT Oil Change

[NancysToy]

The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys. :joke:
See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

View attachment 84535

Thanks. Apparently there is no oil screen to clean? It is not listed in the maintenance schedule.

 

[PMK]

The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys. :joke:
See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

View attachment 84535

I guess my bad then, I was under the impression that there was no tank based on the method of checking the oil level. The engine must be run then shut down to check the level t be on the dipstick. The true oil level is a hot oil check.

As for dry sump engines with no oil tank. How would we classify the modern four stroke Japanese MX machines.

PK

 

[Texas]

Did mine this PM and while BRP was kind enough to make openings in the belly pans for the oil to drain, the openings aren't quite large enough and some oil drained onto the belly pans and puddled on the floor. I'll know next time and devise some solution to prevent this; probably just dremel out the openings a little.

The plug on the left side, the one with the O rings, Torx 40, wouldn't budge. Had the same problem with my '11. Took a small chisel and gave it a couple taps on the edge with a hammer and it loosened right up.

Five quarts brought it half way between the fill lines (knobs). When filling, the oil goes in fairly slow so don't give it a big dump or you may have oil running all over.

Now that I know the drill, it'll be easier next time, and hopefully not so messy.

I didn't even have one drip on the floor. However, the clearance between the bottom of the RT and the floor is not ideal, so it was very difficult to accomplish. My thinking is that next time I will drive the front end of the RT onto my vehicle ramps, then lift the rear to be the same height (however I haven't done any research on the lift point for the rear). This would give ample clearance making it not only much easier to remove the drain plugs, but also give me the opportunity to properly clean the bottom of the RT.

As far as removing the drain plugs; I used a torque wrench, which made it very easy.

I didn't have any issues filling the oil. I use a funnel with a small orifice, so that forces me to keep the flow at a rate under that which the RT can accept. At the rate I had to fill at, it took a while to add the 5.6qts.

 

[ulflyer]

I didn't even have one drip on the floor. However, the clearance between the bottom of the RT and the floor is not ideal, so it was very difficult to accomplish. My thinking is that next time I will drive the front end of the RT onto my vehicle ramps, then lift the rear to be the same height (however I haven't done any research on the lift point for the rear). This would give ample clearance making it not only much easier to remove the drain plugs, but also give me the opportunity to properly clean the bottom of the RT.

As far as removing the drain plugs; I used a torque wrench, which made it very easy.

I didn't have any issues filling the oil. I use a funnel with a small orifice, so that forces me to keep the flow at a rate under that which the RT can accept. At the rate I had to fill at, it took a while to add the 5.6qts.

I jacked mine up and put 8" wood blocks I had made for my previous '11 under all three wheels so that gave me lots of room. My issue with my T40 socket is that it was not a good tight fit and almost felt like it might strip, and that would have been a real problem; I doubt any dealer even has a plug in stock. Thats why I used the chisel, a method used by old timers for many years.

 

[Texas]

I jacked mine up and put 8" wood blocks I had made for my previous '11 under all three wheels so that gave me lots of room. My issue with my T40 socket is that it was not a good tight fit and almost felt like it might strip, and that would have been a real problem; I doubt any dealer even has a plug in stock. Thats why I used the chisel, a method used by old timers for many years.

Yeah, the T40 fits, but it does twist a bit in the drain plug. I wasn't very happy about that. The upside is that the T45 fits perfectly in the other drain plug with no twist.

 

[Texas]

Fair disclosure here,I have not seen a new rt, but are you sure it is a torx on the drain plug?

Many owners of previous RT models thought it was a torx and it wasn't (allen).

Being that the bolt is underneath the RT, and my eyes aren't as good as they used to be, I tried both metric and SAE allen wrenches, but they wouldn't fit. I can also say that the other drain plug is definitely a T45, so it wouldn't make sense to me that they would make one an allen, and the other a torx.

 

[ulflyer]

Fair disclosure here,I have not seen a new rt, but are you sure it is a torx on the drain plug?

Many owners of previous RT models thought it was a torx and it wasn't (allen).

Roger, it sure is a torx. I didn't believe it either and tried various hex wrenches; none fit. Once I finally got the "t40" out it was evident that it is a Torx. By my trying to make a hex fit, I think I may have stretched it a little but in putting it back it tightened nicely.

Then I had the pleasure of draining the oil a second time as I inadvertently put in 20-50!
The second time I used the torx 40 to remove and later replace.

I think BRP likes to keep us guessing...........

 

[bobbobtar]

FYI 36mm socket also removes the rear axle nut.

 

[Omcge]

oil change

Nice Job
How many miles did you have on it?

 

[ulflyer]

Nice Job
How many miles did you have on it?

I did mine at 1500.

 

[Texas]

Nice Job
How many miles did you have on it?

Just over 1,000 miles.

 

[SpongeBob]

What oil did you use ...

... 5W40 as specified

... BRP

... or another brand ?

 

[Texas]

What oil did you use ...

... 5W40 as specified

... BRP

... or another brand ?

I only use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic.

 

[ulflyer]

I only use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic.

Texas, would you do us a favor and have it lab tested when you hit 4,000 miles, or thereabouts? It would be great to see how the viscosity holds up as that oil is readily avail everywhere and relatively inexpensive.

A lot of big bikers use Rotella T5, 15-40, with excellent results. Most of us were leery of using these oils in our 998's due to a couple of reports of clutch slipping.

I'll lab test the Castrol blend I have in mine if I can get at least 3K miles on it before I leave for Spyderfest in late April. I want to have Amsoil and filter in before I go for the long haul.

 

[Texas]

Texas, would you do us a favor and have it lab tested when you hit 4,000 miles, or thereabouts? It would be great to see how the viscosity holds up as that oil is readily avail everywhere and relatively inexpensive.

A lot of big bikers use Rotella T5, 15-40, with excellent results. Most of us were leery of using these oils in our 998's due to a couple of reports of clutch slipping.

I'll lab test the Castrol blend I have in mine if I can get at least 3K miles on it before I leave for Spyderfest in late April. I want to have Amsoil and filter in before I go for the long haul.

From the Owner's Manual:
"Use the XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container."

Rotella T6 Specs:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, SM, SL, SH; ACEA E9; Caterpillar ECF-3, ECF-2; Cummins CES 20081; DDC 93K218; Ford WSS M2C171-E; JASO DH-2, MA; Mack EO-O Premium Plus; MB Approval 228.31; Volvo VDS-4

http://s02.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/rotella/downloads/pdf/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf - Has a lot of great information about Rotella T6

I'll let you know if I experience any clutch slipping. I'm not going to recommend any one oil over another; as I know that a lot of people can take oil discussions to the extreme. This being said, I've been using this oil in all of my vehicles for the past few years with no issues, so I will continue to use it.

 

[PatrickH]

Baker Bilt

Hello MurphyBrown,

I noticed in your info piece about your '14 RT, White Knight (that was the name, btw, of the White GL1800 I traded for my new '14 RT) that you listed Baker Bilt in your equipment listing. Is that Baker Bilt Wind WIngs? If YES, how do you like them? I had them on my GL1800 and liked them a lot.

Regards,
Patrick H

I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again. :thumbup:

 

[PatrickH]

36mm socket

Hello Bobbobtar,

Is that 36mm socket a 6 point? or a 12 point socket?

Regards, PatrickH

FYI 36mm socket also removes the rear axle nut.

 

[mindman]

Thanks for the instructions Texas! Definitely saving this for future ref.

 

[Chupaca]

Nicely done..!!

the good thing is if you have to get the 36mm socket you now can adjust the belt as well...:thumbup: Seems like a spin on filter would be the way to go..??

 

[finless]

I prefer two 36mm wrenches (I bought 1 and cut it in half). This for me makes it easier to adjust the belt and then snug down the axel. In fact the 1/2 wrenches dont give you a lot of leverage so using my full force with them almost gets me to the torque spec
Then I use a socket with torque wrench to finish it off.

Bob